Unguided Ice Climbing at Matanuska Glacier Alaska– Looking for Beta (for June)

I'm planning a trip to Alaska this June and am looking for beta on unguided glacier ice climbing at Matanuska Glacier or elsewhere in Alaska. My priority is easy access and a short approach. 

I’m an experienced lead waterfall ice climber with my own gear and partner, so I don't see the point of buying a beginner ice climbing tour like most tourists. 

I’ve found lots of tourist-focused info online. But I’m having trouble finding any info from experienced climbers who’ve done real, independent climbing there — like serac top-roping, leading ice walls, etc.

Here is an MP route entry I found, but with minimal info.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106060506/everywhere-is-a-route

A few questions I’d really appreciate insight on:

• Are there reliable and accessible ice features (seracs, crevasses, etc.) within the day-access zone of the glacier for independent climbers?

• How's the ice condition in June compared with other times of the year? Not sure if it's worth it to climb in the summertime.

• Any permits or logistics beyond paying the private access fee (~$45–75)?

• Do I need to worry about glacier travel/crevasse rescue if I stay near the toe of the glacier?

Also, if you've climbed there yourself and have any specific lines or areas to recommend, I'd love to hear about it — especially anything that's not tourist-crowded but still accessible without roping up for glacier travel.

Thanks in advance!

Have you tried calling the guide services? I'm sure they'd be down to give you some beta and they probably know way more than anyone here.

Adam Fleming wrote:

Have you tried calling the guide services? I'm sure they'd be down to give you some beta and they probably know way more than anyone here.

I’ve thought about that, but I’ve been hesitant to call since I figure most guides probably aren’t that interested in giving detailed beta to non-clients. I totally get that they make a living guiding, so I don’t want to come off as fishing for free info.

ice trad wrote:

I’ve thought about that, but I’ve been hesitant to call since I figure most guides probably aren’t that interested in giving detailed beta to non-clients. I totally get that they make a living guiding, so I don’t want to come off as fishing for free info.

Worst they do is say no. If you feel bad about it, hire them for a half-day or swing by the shop with some beer or something. They probably want to climb something besides the baby walls and would be stoked to have a capable guest for once.

Just get out there.

It’s been many years (maybe 10) since I was out there but there are many cool features not far from where you get on the glacier. The thing is huge, you could choose to walk as far out as you want. I wouldn’t worry too much about the season, it’s probably better in the summer as the ice is exposed and not snow covered. Also better for seeing crevasses though I haven’t seen any that were big enough to get into within a mile of so of the edge.  This may have changed in the last decade. 

most guide services will cite legal policy and not give any route beta over the phone to non clients. when chatting with guides in person they are usually very open and helpful. the front office answering the phone can be a hard no.  I know I would feel quite awkward calling a guide service that I did not intend to hire and asking them for beta.  when you meet someone out in the field and start a conversation it feels natural to ask for beta.  

Consider the Worthington glacier on the Richardson hwy if easy access to glacial climbing is the only priority. Car to glacier in about 20 mins. I’m not sure the worthington has a vacations worth of seracing, but definitely some fun stuff within an hour or so of the car.

Considering some of your matanuska questions above I’d give MICA a call start there. Not all glacier guides offer cookie cutter trips. If you talk to them you just might be able to get a day set up just how you’d like.

And finally the Alaska ice climbing Facebook page & chat are the best resource for finding partners and current info in the area.  

I have not been on the Matanuska but guide ice on the Root Glacier (near McCarthy). It is a bit of a drive, but only a couple miles to the ice on an easy trail. The Root is similar to the Mat so I think that I can answer most of your questions. 

1. Yes, and the best climbing is in moulins. These are big holes formed by water and have ice that will not be sun-affected. Glacier ice is much denser than WI so be prepared for that. 

2. Outside of moulins the ice gets sun-baked and will feel a little strange. The outer layer will feel soft, and you can bury the pick pretty far. Unlike WI, there are thousands of feet of ice, and you can (and should) clear away the top layer of ice when setting TR anchors. Additionaly, screws will melt out fast in the sun, so make sure to cover you TR screws with something and set a V-thread as a backup. On hotter days, I've been able to pull my screws straight out of the wall when lowering after a lead. 

3. Not sure about the Matanuska, but for the Root you can just walk straight on, there isn't even a fee. 

4. Nope, that area of the Matanuska is in the Ablation zone. As long as you are not visiting in May, you will be able to see any obstacles/ dangers. Bottom line is don't step on snow. 

Our guide service can definitely do more advanced trips if you ask and I'd bet that MICA  would be happy to do that as well.  Have a great trip, and feel free to PM me if you think I can answer any more questions. If you're near McCarthy let me know and I'd be down to head out with you guys for a day also. 

Ya the root & kenicot/McCarthy would make for a better trip than the worthington. That’s a cool section of the park. Lots to do

do you dry tool or strictly looking for ice ?

I was a volunteer instructor at the Mounteering Club ice fest there last fall.  There is tons of lines within 90 minutes or so of the car. The best locations vary year to year.  No need to rope up.  The glacier will be wide open. 

I know in the recent past access has been touchy.  I dont know what the current situation is for access w/o being part of a group. I would suggest not offering up that you are climbing and getting far enough away that you aren't visible to the tourists, which should not be a problem since the best lines are a ways back.

If the weather is good the Byron Glacier is a fun alternative near Anchorage. Just be aware it catches some of the worst weather around.  Good luck.

Thanks a lot for everyone's insight. I found this MICA Helicopter ice climbing tour, it will be $2000 for me and my partner, they fly you more upstream for better ice features (quote from their website "best features of the glacier for ice climbing you have to get to what we call “the backcountry”. This area is several miles beyond the toe of the glacier and features huge walls, deep crevasses and beautiful blue pools."), I've never climbed on glacier before, so it's hard for me to compare near the toe of the glacier vs fly to somewhere better, do you guys think the scenery is worth $2000? I am not a dirtbag, but the cost is wild compared with other dirtbag climbing activities.

https://micaguides.com/activities/ultimate-helicopter-glacier-tour/

$2k sounds like a total rip off to me.  I'm not sure the flight times to the climbing at the Mat but I know you can get a glacier bump out of Girdwood for <$400 for two people.  Call Blue Ice Aviation or Majestic Valley. 

Agreed, if you are a competent climber and stay below the firm line I would look into a helicopter company that will fly you out then come back and pick you up. Some will even let you deadhead for a lot less.   $2000 for a day of climbing seems pretty expensive- definitely catering to the tourist crowd.  In my experience with helicopters you pay for the actual flight time and if the helicopter is sitting waiting for you. 

Last year there was a 100 foot tall ice wall about 10 minutes out the Root Glacier. $2000 buys a lot of gear... 

Ry Allwright wrote:

Last year there was a 100 foot tall ice wall about 10 minutes out the Root Glacier. $2000 buys a lot of gear... 

Sounds like a good option too, I’ll think about if the 6.5 hr drive is worth it.

2 g’s ha

fuckin rip off