New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #35

Starting a new one.

Have fun down there, Buck! Since we’re talking about VT and Seneca Rocks, here’s an ancient pic. 1988 Middlebury spring break trip to WV. I think the Gendarme fell a few months earlier so we missed out. Or maybe we lucked out? Fritz the picture taker went on to start a company in Leadville called Melanzana…check out the stylin first gen mtbs.

Colden

Your picture reminded me of climbing the Gendarme back in the early 80s. Jean and I learned to climb at Seneca Rocks. During that time we lived in Middletown MD before moving to PA 86.  I have attached a couple of scanned old photos back then.

Starting the easy 5.4 start. Check out the EBs.

Near the top.

Trying to balance with a lot of wind,

Rapping off. I was scared since it was slightly overhanging.

John

Great shots!

Oldtradguy wrote:

Your picture reminded me of climbing the Gendarme back in the early 80s. Jean and I learned to climb at Seneca Rocks. During that time we lived in Middletown MD before moving to PA 86.  I have attached a couple of scanned old photos back then.

Starting the easy 5.4 start. Check out the EBs.

Near the top.

Trying to balance with a lot of wind,

Rapping off. I was scared since it was slightly overhanging.

John

Now THAT right there is a worthy first post on the new thread. 

Holy Cow!  What an amazing set of photos!

Since we are using the way back machine, here is one:

The crux pitch of Shockley”s Ceiling in the Gunks, circa 1978.  Yes I did have a pony tail.

Ward in your way back machine. I guess this is my today machine at the Monument.  Brownie Girl Dome. 

Sometimes the music sets the mood.   

Oh MAN John!  Look at those beautiful climbs.  WOW.   

Ward Smith wrote:

Since we are using the way back machine, here is one:

The crux pitch of Shockley”s Ceiling in the Gunks, circa 1978.  Yes I did have a pony tail.

You get points for the pony tail.  But loose them for wearing clothes.  And I'm sure there is an even bigger penalty for calling the route by its name....

Ward Smith wrote:

Since we are using the way back machine, here is one:

The crux pitch of Shockley”s Ceiling in the Gunks, circa 1978.  Yes I did have a pony tail.

Ward, I'm guessing that you were 13-14 then?

Have a great trip to AZ and send your project!!!!

Alan Rubin wrote:

Ward, I'm guessing that you were 13-14 then?

Have a great trip to AZ and send your project!!!!

17, born in 1960.  Thanks, I will try hard!

Buck

Nick has given you some good information on Seneca Rocks. Across from Seneca Rocks is the Princess Snowbird campground. It is cheaper than Seneca Shadows. It is also a lot noisier than Seneca Shadows. We prefer Seneca Shadows it is more low key. 

Jean and I have climbed a lot at Seneca Rocks in the past. I will PM you on some info about the area. I injured my left shoulder and knee climbing. I am trying to rehab the slight tear in my shoulder and bicep. Jean and I will be at Seneca Rocks April 21(Monday) and leave 24(Thursday). We will only be climbing on Monday. We will hike the other days with friends that do not climb.  I want to see what my shoulder and knee can do climbing.

What do you want to experience at Seneca? There are a couple of ways to get to the top of the rock. 

If you wanted to do either of the Gunsight to the South Peak, I would recommend coming up the hikers trail and to the observation deck and come south on the east side. Coming in from the southern piller area is very physical. You will be doing the stairmaster walk. 

Like the others, I would not recommend doing Bananas to Debbie, I would not recommend that Bananas is your first ever climb at Seneca. It is not that hard but it is a little scary with the hollow sounding and moving rock. You could do Lox to Debbie. Lox is a one or two move wonder doing a 5.8R move.

If you want to access some easier climbs to get acquainted with the feel of the rock at Seneca and a short hike, then head to the South end area. You could do Ecstacy Jr 5.4 2 pitch climb. Take a 70 m rope for the 2nd rap. If you have a 60 m then as you rap head left near the bottom and you can then walk a little to the ground on your right. Tie the ends. If you do have a 70 m you could then TR the Burn 5.8. You could also try Sunshine 5.10. I have led all of these routes in the past. The Burn has 2 variations near the top. Near the very top across to your left is the Burn Escape 5.6. 

Another good one is Candy Corner 5.6 1 pitch. You could also then TR Ye Gods and Little Fishes 5.8. This is the easiest 5.8 at Seneca. 

Around the corner is Skyline Traverse 5.3 3 pitch climb. It has a exciting step across the air from pitch 1 to pitch 2.

Across from the Souther Peak is the Southern Pillar. You may like Roy Gap Chimney 5.6 3 pitch. I would only do the first 2 pitches.

Here are a couple of pictures of Jean in the chimney.

John

Tradguy. Is it possible that we finished Candy Corner up skyline ? or did we get there from the top of P1 of Ye Gods?

any idea what climb this is? I am drawing a total blank??? 

this is Marshals Madness

is it possible that I am now on Crack of Dawn? 

this is probably topping out on Gunsite

We climbed a second pitch to this one that I think was fun. 

 if I had too guess ?? Exstacy? 

The backs of my hands still hurt from the off width crack at my gym. So far, got most of the 5.9+ a couple 5.10-. working the 5.10+ cracks. The finger jams require tape. Will try those Monday.

Getting more comfortable on the overhangs.

Made it up to the second to last knob on the campus board. Plan to work that one a bit more then finally advance to the medium rungs.

Great pics of Seneca.  Can also recommend Le Gourmet and the Front C variation.  Old Man’s is easy but a good intro to the main face. 

At Seneca, dimly remember enjoying the Old Ladies route and Conn's East.  Amazing place.  Never seen a trad route density quite like it.  Good times!

Oldtradguy wrote:

Buck

Nick has given you some good information on Seneca Rocks. Across from Seneca Rocks is the Princess Snowbird campground. It is cheaper than Seneca Shadows. It is also a lot noisier than Seneca Shadows. We prefer Seneca Shadows it is more low key. 

Jean and I have climbed a lot at Seneca Rocks in the past. I will PM you on some info about the area. I injured my left shoulder and knee climbing. I am trying to rehab the slight tear in my shoulder and bicep. Jean and I will be at Seneca Rocks April 21(Monday) and leave 24(Thursday). We will only be climbing on Monday. We will hike the other days with friends that do not climb.  I want to see what my shoulder and knee can do climbing.

What do you want to experience at Seneca? There are a couple of ways to get to the top of the rock. 

If you wanted to do either of the Gunsight to the South Peak, I would recommend coming up the hikers trail and to the observation deck and come south on the east side. Coming in from the southern piller area is very physical. You will be doing the stairmaster walk. 

Like the others, I would not recommend doing Bananas to Debbie, I would not recommend that Bananas is your first ever climb at Seneca. It is not that hard but it is a little scary with the hollow sounding and moving rock. You could do Lox to Debbie. Lox is a one or two move wonder doing a 5.8R move.

If you want to access some easier climbs to get acquainted with the feel of the rock at Seneca and a short hike, then head to the South end area. You could do Ecstacy Jr 5.4 2 pitch climb. Take a 70 m rope for the 2nd rap. If you have a 60 m then as you rap head left near the bottom and you can then walk a little to the ground on your right. Tie the ends. If you do have a 70 m you could then TR the Burn 5.8. You could also try Sunshine 5.10. I have led all of these routes in the past. The Burn has 2 variations near the top. Near the very top across to your left is the Burn Escape 5.6. 

Another good one is Candy Corner 5.6 1 pitch. You could also then TR Ye Gods and Little Fishes 5.8. This is the easiest 5.8 at Seneca. 

Around the corner is Skyline Traverse 5.3 3 pitch climb. It has a exciting step across the air from pitch 1 to pitch 2.

Across from the Souther Peak is the Southern Pillar. You may like Roy Gap Chimney 5.6 3 pitch. I would only do the first 2 pitches.

John

Woah!  Tons of great info!

Thanks!

I've been in touch with a local who climbs there 20-30+ times per year and has for years.

We're working out some climbs for my two day trip in June.  He leads way harder than me but is super chill so it'll be a great introduction to Seneca.

Have a great time next week and here's to hoping that old injuries don't rear their ugly head again!

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Tradguy. Is it possible that we finished Candy Corner up skyline ? or did we get there from the top of P1 of Ye Gods?

any idea what climb this is? I am drawing a total blank??? 

this is Marshals Madness

That exact shot of me is in the 2nd edition Barnes guide for Seneca. She's a lot more photogenic than I am though!

Emil Briggs wrote:

That exact shot of me is in the 2nd edition Barnes guide for Seneca.

You mean this one???

Buck Rogers wrote:

You mean this one???

That's it! I had more hair back then but you can't tell with the helmet on.

Oldtradguy wrote:

Buck

Nick has given you some good information on Seneca Rocks. Across from Seneca Rocks is the Princess Snowbird campground. It is cheaper than Seneca Shadows. It is also a lot noisier than Seneca Shadows. We prefer Seneca Shadows it is more low key.

snippage...

Seneca Shadows is a US Forest Service facility.  I think with the military discount it might be cheaper.  And as noted, it is much better for a low key experience.

I dunno...you're lookin' good:

Looks steep!

Top o' the pile...

I'm catching up. In the previous thread, Ward said: "I agree, I actually LIKE talking about politics if people are respectful and are actually open to opposing views.  I mean, if I never listened to opposing views I would still believe in Santa Claus and the Tooth Fairy." A few other people agreed that it politics are worth discussing in this thread, and I also agree.

In the public sphere (like this forum), I try to avoid name-calling and mockery. It's the opposite of helpful. If I don't think I can be civil when writing a post, just walk away.

That's where I stand. I like talking politics. It helps me to develop my own opinions, which can be vague or rough if I haven't discussed them with others. And it's interesting to get counterpoints to help me understand why someone might differ. I certainly have changed my opinion on some things over time. I don't believe that political discussions have to be about changing anyone's mind. Not at all. It's more about respectfully sharing viewpoints, to me. I think it's a huge problem that we can't have civil political discourse. It's probably a symptom of something else.

This reminds me of an old Paul Graham essay, "Keep Your Identity Small", that might interest some here. Here's a sample quote: "...you can have a fruitful discussion about a topic only if it doesn't engage the identities of any of the participants. What makes politics and religion such minefields is that they engage so many people's identities.... If people can't think clearly about anything
that has become part of their identity, then all other things being
equal, the best plan is to let as few things into your identity as
possible."