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Calanques & Verdon - Single rope (70m) sport multipitch
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My wife and I are travelling to the Calanques and Verdon in late May and we're looking for multipitches that can be done with a single 70m rope. I have digital copies (via Omega Rock) for "Climbing in the Calanques" and "Escalade au Verdon" but the digital version sucks at conveying what can and can't be done with single ropes (instead of double/twin 50/60m ropes). Lots of descriptions on Camp-to-Camp seem to imply that raps are often 50m long but some comments on MP seem to indicate that some descents are feasible with shorter raps. Any recommendations, 5.10a/5c and under, for either area? We are staying in Sormiou for the Calanques portion of the trip and Montagnac-Montpezat for Verdon but we do have a car. |
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And at Les Calanques, especially Sormiou, I would advise this : - https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/522098/fr/calanques-sormiou-l-archipel-la-panthere-rose - https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/823287/fr/calanques-sormiou-l-archipel-the-big-lebowski Cheers |
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We did Dalles Grises with a single 70m. It was fun and super mellow at multi-pitch 5c. Also, don’t miss Wide is Love. It is only one pitch, but it is the best 6a on the planet with tons of exposure. |
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Just buy a couple of 60m halves when you get there, that's what the climbing is set up for. |
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Thank you everyone! |
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Climbed Le Temple (5c+) in Les Calanques sugiton area with a 70 a month ago. Walk off the top followed a fairly well marked trail to the left down a super steep 4th class gulley. Also be on the lookout for a sharp left traverse after the 2nd bolt on the 4th pitch. If you go straight your chill sportclimb will become quite an excited alpine adventure. Guidebook suggests bring some nuts. I only used them bc I got off route after 3rd pitch |
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Climbed Le Temple (5c+) in Les Calanques sugiton area with a 70 a month ago. Walk off the top followed a fairly well marked trail to the left down a super steep 4th class gulley. Also be on the lookout for a sharp left traverse after the 2nd bolt on the 4th pitch. If you go straight your chill sportclimb will become quite an excited alpine adventure. Guidebook suggests bring some nuts. I only used them bc I got off route after 3rd pitch |
Jim Titt wrote: When were you last climbing in the Verdon Jim? I've always used 50m halves and not yet found them to be limiting in any way (3 trips in the last ~10 years). The recently added rappel route to access La Demande directly is set up for 50m ropes. I'm not aware of any that need 60m. (Most routes were established in the 70s-90s when 50m ropes were considered long. Routes and rappel pistes typically have 30-40m between anchors) Looking at the OP's ticks, starting on routes around 5c (~5.9) seems wise. Perhaps they could go a little harder once they get used to the style. A 70m rope will limit possibilities but there will still be something to go at especially if they stick to the shorter routes around the rim of the Escalès. Some of the single pitch routes in the Carelle sector are 20-30m long and might be a good place to get the hang of the climbing. Rappelling down the Dalles Grises to the mid-height Jardin des Ecureuils is very feasible with a single 70m as the Dalles Grises routes are used by guides and are bolted to give short pitches so they can keep a close eye on clients. Les Dalles Grises itself (5c / ~5.8, many variations possible) is good but may be busy; Afin que nul ne Meure (6a+ / ~10a) from the left end of the Jardin is a good introduction to the area and usually quieter. Chlorochose (5c / ~5.9) or L'Arab Demente (6a+ / ~10b) are also good. All these are sport routes. French grades are per guidebook; US grades are my estimate of what they would get relocated to Eldo. Obviously check all this when you're in the area but if you just want to spend a few days sampling the place and don't want to buy new ropes don't be put off. |
