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**UPDATED** Big (Mostly) Free Alpine / Rock Routes (based on time-ish)
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2nd update: Thanks for more insight and feedback! I think we probably have a solid list of top 10-15, and we could/should knife fight what is bigger/smaller amongst those, haha. Willing to chop off #16 and below on 3rd update. I should clarify that I'm not looking for "best alpine" or "best alpine area," I'm looking for biggest (time being main factor) rock/alpine routes (up to about 5.11-) that are "worth doing," semi-excluding link ups, traverses, etc. ... i.e. looking for biggest continues route with likely serious commitment (number of pitches, max difficulty, sustainment, etc. all play into it - it's not an objective scale). If its only 10 pitches, probably not even worthy for the list. If it's a pedestrian grade IV, probably not worthy for the list. If there is a freak who can climb something mega fast, that doesn't discount - think average climbers for normalize the comparisons. If everyone bivys on the route, I want to know about it! If it's super obscure and no one ever really get to it, probably very cool and could include, but really trying to make a sick list of (reasonably) accessible (i.e. normal people get after it) big-ass routes. I've included a couple smaller routes just to show that I think they are small and at the end, and not ignored (i.e. Winds, Tetons, Idaho, East Coast = very cool, but not BIG) Updates: - Added four w/ ** (Lotus Flower Tower, Life in Space, Direct N Buttress, Slab Daddy/Oso Rodeo) - Mt Moran is big, but I think it's too inconsistent to be on the list, it's more of a link up --------------------------------------------------- 1st Update: Thanks for the insight and feedback, appreciate the dialogue. Edits and updates: - Added three w/ * (Beckey Route, Rest and Be Thankful, Edge of Time Arete) - I think Angel Wings is touch too hard for my list, trying to keep it 11- at most. - I think most of the Hulk is probably a touch too hard, with PV being the reason to allow 11- (as any list like this would be incomplete without the Hulk) - Left off are all the huge Canadian North Facing style routes, I'm not familiar enough to know where they stack up, but I'm pretty sure they're huge and probably bigger than all these. --------------------------------------------------- Regarding big and long (mostly) free alpine or rock routes in the 5.8+ to 5.11- range ... I've only done 5, all on my list. Curious what folks think as hardest/easiest or must-do! Also intetested in what other think go on this list that's missing or what's off-base and not worthy, etc. No intended offense and i certainly left something off by mistake. Flame on! In order of my thoughts based on estimated average climber time on the route. Approach and descent NOT playing ANY factor. 1. RNWF Half Dome 2. ** Lotus Flower Tower (added with 2nd update, how could I have forgotten this one!) 3. * Beckey Route on Bastille Buttress (added with 1st update) 4. * Rest and Be Thankful (N Arete) on Mt Langley (added with 1st update) 5. ** Life in Space (added with 2nd update, not sure about this one, its pretty new, seems like a lot of short pitches and pretty fast climbing, maybe it's actually a link up? ...) 6. ** Direct N Buttress of Bear Mountain (added with 2nd update) 7. Steck-Salathe 8. Harding Route on Keeler Needle 9. NEB Slesse 10. Full Resolution Arete (down from #3 with 1st update) 11. ** Slab Daddy / Oso Rodeo (added with 2nd update) 12. Positive Vibrations 13. Tatooine in Zion 14. B-C on S Howser Tower 15. * Edge of Time Arete on the Citadel (added with 1st update) 16. Dark Star (down from #7 with 1st update) 17. Scenic Cruise in the Black 18. Liberty Crack at WA Pass 19. Women of Mountain Dreams 20. Complete NR Mt Stuart 21. Angle's Crest in Squamish 22. Astro Elephant on Elephant Perch 23. Original Route at Whitesides 24. VMC Direct Direct at Cannon 25. NR Grand Teton 26. NEF Pingora |
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We like to call these routes 'Calpine' :D The Edge of Time on the Citadel looks awesome and has a sick FA story, and Harding Route on Conness looks cool. On the easier/shorter end but Mithril Dihedral is a lovely line I found very inspired. We did it in viciously cold temps and it took us like 5 hrs? If you're into obscurities there's plenty of stuff like this in the Sierra. It would be really hard for me to compare Steck-Salathe to some of these other routes. The thing with a lot of the alpine stuff is sure there's a cruxy 10+ section, but what you're really going to need is solid ropework and ability to move really fast over terrain ranging from 4th class to 5.8. It's kind of a different skillset, much more cardio dependent. |
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Hi Dave, Add more hulk routes to your list, even if they might be a touch above your grade range requirements. I'm not sure I could put the mt. Wilson routes in the same list as some of the other big sierra routes, but still worth a day of your weekend if your already in red rocks. Dark star is somewhat disappointing, sure its long by pitch count, but after the 5.10 pitches on the second tower, the rest of the climb is simuling and/or soloing, such that DS is a casual c2c mission along with the other 3 of the celestial aretes. You should defiantly add the Becky route on the bastille buttress on lone pine peak, and there are many very long routes on the south face of lone pine peak out of tuttle creek that would be up your alley, see pull harder and vitaly's new high sierra guide book volume 1. second a vote to add edge of time arete on the citadel Bubbs creek wall has a dozen long sustained routes, and Valhalla on angel wings is of a similar scale and difficulty. Rest and be thankful on the north face of langley was worthwhile as well. |
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Fitting into the 'Canadian but not north-facing' category are a couple of obvious routes: the Southeast Face of Lotus Flower Tower and the Scott Route on Asgard. Despite somewhat more complex logistics I suspect that either - or both - would merit a place on the list. |
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I've heard this one is super good https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105957970/wall-of-the-worlds |
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Nice one Dave, these are the routes you dream about all year. If I'm lucky, I get one or maybe two of these done each summer, tops!! .. Some of my favorite days out ever have already been mentioned - Valkyrie on Angel Wings for sublime surroundings and variety of climbing styles Positive Vibes on the Hulk for sheer pleasure Harding Route on Keeler for the burl .. Couple more on my to-do list - Subliminal Verses + Saber Ridge + Prism Time all around Hamilton Lakes (give or take .. haha .. did a drive by of these when we did Angel Wings) Welcome to Krackizstan + Starlight Dihedral on Mt Hitchcock .. Pervertical Sanctuary on The Diamond Icarus in the Winds .. and if we're stretching the alpine definition a bit ... might consider Abracadaver in the Stronghold. It's desert alpine. I have a few friends that rave about the place. .. not to hijack the thread, but I was trying to place the Bugaboos route that Tommy and Alex climb in the NatGeo show about their traverse of Devil's Thumb in Alaska. Can anyone recognize this route? It might be All Along the Watchtower ? They didn't say in the show. That said, Tommy and Alex make it look about 5.7 so it is probably a 5.13- xD    |
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Someone already mentioned pervertical but there are other great diamond routes as well. Casual and yellow wall/forrest finish are also 5.10 there also other great routes in rocky like the barb on spearhead and birds of fire on chiefs head or a route on the saber. I’d also go check out the south buttress of mt Moran in the Tetons. |
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Slightly odd list in that it mixes remote backcountry alpine rock routes with easily accessible lowland rock routes. If you're including those sorts of normal 1-day roadside rock climbing routes like Angels Crest, then that opens the door to including many similar routes. You could add the likes of Epinephrine, The Grand Wall, etc etc. It seems to me that it could be helpful to split the list into frontcountry day trip objectives, vs the more remote alpine stuff. ---- One area to look at and consider adding is Darrington WA (as long as you aren't opposed to slab climbing). These routes make up for what the lack is steepness by providing impressive length and outstanding rock quality. The big routes on Squire Creek Wall clock in at 20+ pitches, and the Illusion Wall offers slightly steeper and very high quality routes in the 8-10 pitch range. Approaches are long enough that these are a very full day. Exfoliation Dome is another impressive feature with worthwhile long routes. |
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Copying from a similar thread: In SW Canada, pick off Slesse, Life in Space, Nesakwatch Spires, Mighty Mouse, Springbok Arete. The Alpine Select Climbs and Scrambles of SW BC book makes me wish I could do nothing all summer but climb there. Theres a new multi- up in WA Pass thats gotten some hype ( mountainproject.com/route/1…). At your level, hitting up The Hitchhiker is a must I hear. Clean Break and Rebel Yell would be sick too. Or get way back there in the Cascades and hit the Gunsights, Bear Mountain, East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, or NW Face of Forbidden. There's a lot of cool zones in the Wind River Range and the Tetons that would be worth spending some time. Mendenhall towers would be epic! |
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This is a sick thread |
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Direct S Butt or South Buttress Right on Mt. Moran in the Tetons is the longest rock route in the country (if you continue to the summit) and mostly free. |
