Rab mythic series jackets - too light?

Has anyone used the rab mythic alpine or mythic G jackets? Are the 10D and 7D face fabrics as fragile as they seem? I'm more than okay with holes in my jackets, but I don't want to be patching it up every time I wear it. 

Not planning to bring them ice climbing so I'm not worried about poking holes with my tools. Looking at them specifically to cut down on pack size for two-day climbs and as a bit of added safety for unexpected temps/emergencies as I'm getting into bigger stuff. Right now, I've got an older (2015?), very hole-filled arc'teryx thorium, which is good but not as warm as I'd like. Both of the options I'm looking at are lighter, smaller, and warmer.

I have a mythic ultra which is really thin and I have no problems with getting holes yet. I also have a montbell plasma 1000 alpine and it’s super fragile but don’t have issues. Just don’t climb a chimney in them or go bushwhacking haha.

If you want to climb in the jacket I’d more look at a DAS Light. It’s a thicker wind proof material and still very warm. Heavier since it’s synthetic but it’s the best synthetic on the market IMO.

I have the mythic alpine. It is awesome and warmer than most ~10oz jackets. I've never had a down jacket fit better. I'm 6', 175 pounds, 42" chest and I wear a 32" waist in pants. In american sizes my waist and midsection fit a medium, my shoulders and chest fit a large. My mythic alpine is a UK Large, right between a US medium and a large - it's perfect. A base layer and fleece are comfortable underneath, and the jacket isn't too roomy without them on. I can get the hood over a helmet, but it is tighter and more restrictive than it should be. The hood fits under a helmet well. 

I use it for multipitch rock and hiking. It feels as durable as other jackets in this category (marmot dridown hoody, patagonia down sweater, etc). No issues yet, but I'm careful with it. I expect it to have many patches by the end of its life.

The mythic ultra is an odd jacket. It's as warm as any jacket can be at the weight. However, it doesn't have a belay button, there's no drop pockets, and helmet compatibility and adjustability are dubious. Would I need an XL for the hood to work properly over a helmet? It's doesn't seem to be built or designed as a *technical* mountaineering or alpine climbing jacket. As temps drop all those details matter. It seems like more of a winter *camping* jacket for somewhere inland Continental. It would probably be good for coastal volcano walk ups, but maybe not for Ice climbing or dry tooling. It's a little under-featured for harder climbing in the temperature ranges it's intended for.  

Scott D wrote:

I've given the mythic ultra some serious consideration. It's probably the warmest jacket out there at the weight. However, it lacks a two way zipper, doesn't have a belay button, and there's no drop pockets. I would probably need to size up to XL for the hood to work properly over a helmet. It not built for *technical* mountaineering or alpine climbing, as temps drop all those little details matter. It's a winter *camping* jacket for those counting ounces. It would probably be great for volcano walkups though. 

 

the mythic ultra is 100% a belay jacket and has two way zippers and a big hood for helmets? Are you looking at a different Rab jacket?

Ross - thanks for the input. I'm not looking to climb in it at all, but I've been eyeing the das light for a while, it looks sweet. Think that'll be a purchase for next winter. Great to hear that it's been working well. Any warmth comparison you can give for the mythic ultra? I've done the math on the 900fp but still don't entirely believe that a jacket that light can be as warm as reviews say.

Scott - great to hear, thanks for the input. I'm around your size, and think L will be better. Likely going to order both and see what works. I agree with your assessment about technical vs non-technical use - the mythic alpine couldn't be a replacement for my infinity, for all the reasons you listed. What temps do you reach for it in?

Ross Goldberg wrote:

the mythic ultra is 100% a belay jacket and has two way zippers and a big hood for helmets? Are you looking at a different Rab jacket?

Correction, it has a two way zipper. It does not have a belay button, does not have drop pockets, the hood is not very adjustable. Reviews are critical of helmet compatibility (glad to hear it works for you though). Are you sized up or in your regular size?  

I think calling it 100% a belay jacket is generous. You have a kind soul. 

Noah L wrote:

Scott - great to hear, thanks for the input. I'm around your size, and think L will be better. Likely going to order both and see what works. I agree with your assessment about technical vs non-technical use - the mythic alpine couldn't be a replacement for my infinity, for all the reasons you listed. What temps do you reach for it in?

For static, non-moving conditions the mythic + a fleece is comfortable down to about 40° F. If I'm moving it would be fine at 20°. I climb in the PacNW so that's basically all of spring, summer and fall below 10k *if* conditions are dry. If it's going to be colder I have a Montane Antifreeze XT that weighs 17 oz (6 more oz, also size large) that has a big adjustable hood, two way zipper, 20D pertex quantum, and a belay button. I'm good in that down to 20° static and 0° moving. The mythic ultra is around the same weight but significantly warmer. However, the features meant more to me than absolute warmth, and I saved $100 compared to the best prices I've seen on a Mythic Ultra (~$320 USD from Euro sites like Varuste).  

Scott D wrote:

It does not have a belay button, 

What's a belay button? 

Dave Cramer wrote:

What's a belay button? 

The button at the bottom of the zip to block drafts when you have the belay zip open. Super handy

Noah L wrote:

Ross - thanks for the input. I'm not looking to climb in it at all, but I've been eyeing the das light for a while, it looks sweet. Think that'll be a purchase for next winter. Great to hear that it's been working well. Any warmth comparison you can give for the mythic ultra? I've done the math on the 900fp but still don't entirely believe that a jacket that light can be as warm as reviews say.

Scott - great to hear, thanks for the input. I'm around your size, and think L will be better. Likely going to order both and see what works. I agree with your assessment about technical vs non-technical use - the mythic alpine couldn't be a replacement for my infinity, for all the reasons you listed. What temps do you reach for it in?

The ultra is crazy warm. I run cold and it keeps me warm easily. It has that same lining as the other mythic series jackets that reflects heat I guess?

But point being based on my ultra experience the mythic G would be a fantastic jacket and the shell material fine for your use case.

I got the Mythic G a few months ago. It does seem a bit fragile, so not sure I would wrestle rocks with it, but for normal use it should be fine. I mostly got it as a down layer for ski touring. Based on my limited experience so far it feels sensibly warmer than my Arcteryx Cerium LT while also being 20% lighter. Best warm-to-weight ratio out there.

Agree with what others have said.  I have the regular mythic and it does feel thin but does a great job at blocking wind and keeping me warm with a T-shirt underneath down to about 40 degrees.  

I have not done any off trail hikes and would be skeptical it will hold up with any sort of bushwhacking.  
Although, it has become one of my favorite jackets and I have way too many puffies.