Looking to see if anyone has any info/tips for climbing in Big Bend National Park

Hi, I am planning a trip with my dad (not a climber) to Big Bend National Park next year. This came as an Idea for me to try and reconnect with my Dad and maybe introduce him to the sport I have come to love so much. The problem with this is my Dad very rarely leaves home and definitely wouldn't just for a climbing trip. So in order to sweeten the pot for him, I asked him if there was anywhere he would like to go where he can bring a couple of horses (he runs a large cattle ranch in East Texas) and that I might be able to climb so that we could do something we both very much enjoy and I get the opportunity to introduce him to climbing. His suggestion, Big Bend National Park in South West Texas. I am down to go do this but can not find very much info on climbing there. Plenty of boulders but not a lot of Trad/Sport climbing which I prefer and be way easier to pack my harness and rope on horseback then a bouldering pad.

So here is my question, does anyone know of an actual guide book, or where I can find better info for climbing in Big Bend?  

Several years ago someone uploaded the guide that was available via the ranger station to MP. You may be able to call them and see if they still supply it/it is available as a hard copy but this was the link that I saw here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m5gcmgjtEKdXpYMi0zb25SZTg/view?resourcekey=0-UcE5ogb9NDURnAj53SPiAg

My trip, years ago, wound up not involving climbing, just hiking and camping, so can’t speak to the guide/climbing, but iirc the park camp sites were great!

Yawn Bosco wrote:

Several years ago someone uploaded the guide that was available via the ranger station to MP. You may be able to call them and see if they still supply it/it is available as a hard copy but this was the link that I saw here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m5gcmgjtEKdXpYMi0zb25SZTg/view?resourcekey=0-UcE5ogb9NDURnAj53SPiAg

My trip, years ago, wound up not involving climbing, just hiking and camping, so can’t speak to the guide/climbing, but iirc the park camp sites were great!

I ended up finding a copy of it shortly after posting this and was able to download but noticed it was from 1999 so was curious if anyone had any more updated info. 

Big Bend isn't exactly known as a climbing destination in TX.

I'd highly, HIGHLY suggest Reimer's Ranch instead:
https://parks.traviscountytx.gov/parks/reimers-ranch
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105837312/reimers-ranch
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107788017/reimers-ranch-north-shore

There are equestrian trails there too.

This would be the most popular beginner wall at Reimer's proper for dad routes:
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105837635/dead-cats
Approach is down very water polished limestone, cool cave features, but very slippery.

Most popular beginner wall at Reimer's North Shore for dad routes:
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/107788102/middle-earth-wall
Approach is a normal hiking trail, no difficulties.

FYI- if the funding hasn't been revoked at this point, they are supposed to start a major construction project in the Chisos Basin in May that is supposed to last a couple of years. While that is going on the entire Chisos Basin will be closed to any kind of activity (hiking trails in that area will not be accessible; no lodging, food, or visitor center; etc). That leaves things like the Mule Ears to climb which is the choss pile to end all choss piles (a good friend climbed it a couple of years ago and it sounded awful). 

Yawn Bosco wrote:

Several years ago someone uploaded the guide that was available via the ranger station to MP. You may be able to call them and see if they still supply it/it is available as a hard copy but this was the link that I saw here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0m5gcmgjtEKdXpYMi0zb25SZTg/view?resourcekey=0-UcE5ogb9NDURnAj53SPiAg

My trip, years ago, wound up not involving climbing, just hiking and camping, so can’t speak to the guide/climbing, but iirc the park camp sites were great!

A belated and deserved thanks for posting this. 

I don’t want to derail your original ask which was about big bend but I see someone suggested Reimer’s. If you are entertaining non-big bend options in Texas, and prefer trad climbing I’d skip Reimer’s and instead consider enchanted rock. Much more interesting setting in my opinion (read: fun hiking) with a cool diversity of climbing, and plenty of beginner friendly things and reasonable top rope access in spots. Plus one of the most entertaining climbing guidebooks of all time.

edit: didn’t know about e rock’s lack of horses in the park however so if that’s part of the deal, fuggetaboutit

Yawn Bosco wrote:

I don’t want to derail your original ask which was about big bend but I see someone suggested Reimer’s. If you are entertaining non-big bend options in Texas, and prefer trad climbing I’d skip Reimer’s and instead consider enchanted rock. Much more interesting setting in my opinion (read: fun hiking) with a cool diversity of climbing, and plenty of beginner friendly things and reasonable top rope access in spots. Plus one of the most entertaining climbing guidebooks of all time.

edit: didn’t know about e rock’s lack of horses in the park however so if that’s part of the deal, fuggetaboutit

I appreciate the suggestion. I did suggest Enchanted Rock to my dad but he wants to go to Big Bend. He grew up just North of Big Bend and hasn't been back since High school so I think he's pretty set on that.

I'd bet $100 you cant find a lick of climbing in BBNP.  All choss, nothin but choss.  And, as mentioned above, the whole Basin is closing for construction and needs be researched. 

The Elephants Tusk has been on my radar for a couple decades...  Closed Canyon has rappelling anchors in it for a canyoneering descent.  

The rangers there can advise best for possible climbing! (If they aint been DOGE'd). I've inquired before and was told there's nuthin. There is a ton of rock to explore.  All looks quite adventuresome.  

Over some wine a few years back The Bank Manager of the Gunks, the one and only Rich Romano, recounted to me epic stories of first ascents in Big Bend. Adventure awaits. I think there is more to this place than previous comments in this thread suggest.

Friends put up a route or two somewhere in Santa Elena Canyon some 40 years ago if I recall correctly but I don't think there is any record and I cannot vouch for quality. 

More recently it seems some folks climb in the Davis Mountains to the north. You might find info on routes there online.

Maybe just swing by Hueco Thanks on your way. Plenty of info there. Pecos River limestone would be another option.