Things climbing-related that annoy you

I figured I'd start a list. I'd love to see others

• The term “whipper” being used to describe every fall (your top-rope fall was not a whipper. Neither was your lead fall when the bolt was at your hips)

• Eliminate routes (i.e. “you must avoid using the arete at bolt #3 to earn 5.x credit, otherwise it's 5.x” - it's usually just the first ascensionist unwilling to lower the grade of their route)

• Gym climbers claiming that a route looks soft after watching a video (literally nobody cares about gym grades and you wouldn't even know what real grades feel like)

• Softly graded routes (just a personal thing - I want to earn the grade, not receive a gimme. Plus, they get extremely overhyped because people are stoked to have easily climbed a "harder" route)

The common/popular ones:

• Large groups at the crag 

• People playing music/being loud at the crag

• Unattended ropes on routes

Obviously, I'm bored

Inconsistent grading at a crag because the developers were weak at a certain style. 

Guidebook gatekeeping an area. No guidebook available to purchase, whether it's out of date, out of stock, or simply missing so much it's useless. Couple of areas in Co I've been to have a significant amount of great development, but you can't get a guidebook and it's not on MTN project or routes are scrubbed on MTN project. 

Might be obvious, but contested areas that shouldn't be contested. Super annoying having neighboring landowners harass you when the land is clearly BLM.

Also, if your dog greets me before you do it's not a crag dog. Fuck it is frustrating having somebody's fur baby that's never been told no curl up on my rope and then steal my food. (Before anyone gets up in arms I have a couple rescue dogs, but those dummys aren't coming to the crag with me)

Jeremiah White wrote:

Guidebook gatekeeping an area. No guidebook available to purchase, whether it's out of date, out of stock, or simply missing so much it's useless. Couple of areas in Co I've been to have a significant amount of great development, but you can't get a guidebook and it's not on MTN project or routes are scrubbed on MTN project. 

Entitlement makes my list ^^ 

There’s so many reasons to keep info off mtn project. I won’t list them here, but sometimes it’s the best move at the time. You’re not entitled to the info of an area. Go climb there. Ask around, get to know the developers or locals there. Cry about it. IDC.

Authors are rarely in the drivers seat for out of print guidebooks. I’m not sure how you think that’s gate keeping.

moving on, 

- People altering fixed gear on a sport route to fit their preference and leaving it in the way (clipping up standard draws and hanging long draws that get in the way of the “normal” beta) 

- people that don’t understand how to rotate a Que. if you have to share a route with a handful of folks, everyone gets a rip in order. If someone is super close to sending, a slight preference is a nice gesture but not expected  

- excessive spray. We all do it, it’s super annoying none the less. While the crag lasers are embarassing, they sure save a lotta shouting. 

Peyton C wrote:

Poorly bolted sport routes / ground-up bolted sport routes:

I'm not talking about spacey NRG bolting. I'm talking about when the sport route literally has decking potential from multiple bolts up and the bolts are in terrible locations. If you are rap-bolting, there is no excuse. 

Why are sport routes even being bolted ground-up in areas with no deep ground-up ethic? I get why the ethics exist for placing bolts on trad routes, but why for sport routes? It just leaves everybody else with an extremely poor route. From my experience at my local limestone sport crags, some inexperienced ground-up developers just carelessly place bolts where they need them to ascend the route and they leave extremely poor routes behind. If you are going to permanently alter the rock and bolt a sport route, at least do a decent job and put some effort in.

People complaining about how other people choose to climb, 

People complaining about how other people's effort bolting routes isn't good enough for them,

People who think their limestone sport climbing crag is "unique"

Having a huge pair of testicles.  Those things have made me fall off of so many projects because they are so big.  It’s so annoying 

what a valuable thread

M1 H1 wrote:

what a valuable thread

M1 H1 wrote:

what a valuable thread

This may be the most important thread in MP history. It can be stickied at the top of every category. 

Whenever anyone wants to complain about anything they can come here. Someone can set up a script to autoreply with the "old man yells at cloud" meme. 

To get the obvious out of the way, these will include:

Crag dogs

Crag babies

Speakers at the crag

Hammocks

Team kids

Grades that aren't subjective to my specific build and strengths

Excess chalk

Gear i leave behind that got bootied

Beta spray

People using "in direct"

Excessive bolting

Under bolting

Slow parties on multi pitch

Groups of more than 2 at a popular route (any route i want to climb)

People who start conversations on a public forum that I deem irrelevant 

Boulderers 

Alex Honnold 

Sasha degulian 

Inappropriate use of the word "splitter"

Gatekeeping

Not gatekeeping

 The words send and project.

Mountainproject.com 

Holy shit I just realized that's an actual bot that started this thread. Time for a jihad.

Jeremiah White wrote:

Holy shit I just realized that's an actual bot that started this thread. Time for a jihad.

Don't just be throwing around those accusations broski

Not much, really. Annoying is totally off route.

Having to warm up.  I waste so much time on that BS.  If a genie was granting me wishes, I think my first one would not be to redpoint 5.16.  It would be to be able to climb 100% when I show up without stupid warmup crap.

Speed climbing. Every aspect of it. Speed climbing practice using up valuable wall space in the gym. Speed climbing kids slapping off the wall and whirly birding down to the ground nearly hitting or actually hitting belayers on adjacent routes. How completely devoid of style and any possible cool factor it is.

Cosmic Hotdog wrote:

How completely devoid of style…

That’s not the point; the only thing that matters is speed.

Marc801 C wrote:

That’s not the point; the only thing that matters is speed.

The question is climbing related things that annoy you. 

I don't care what the point is, it all annoys me. 

Things climbing-related that annoy me:  yet another new thread on the same old negativity

Patrick Wilder wrote:

People complaining about how other people's effort bolting routes isn't good enough for them,

This is fair. With the rules of climbing whoever puts bolt in rock first gets dibs. If you have a shared, public natural resource then getting these dibs on a poorly put up route is lame. If you're going to do it then don't half ass it. Whole ass all the things. Or at the very least half ass it and then give permission to someone else to fix the clusterfuck you made.

Permanently modifying rock -especially on public land- is a serious thing to do. Take it seriously. I agree that people who do a shitty job should get booed.

Constantly having to hear about “The Red” and “Red rocks”

I got really annoyed when the nickname for the Adirondacks got changed from the "Ad's" to the "Dack's." Who thought that was an improvement?