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Indian Creek routes to prepare for North Face of Castleton

Original Post
Connor Brass · · Kansas City, MO · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

Was curious if anyone knew of routes in Indian creek that would resemble the 3 pitches of the NF route on Castleton? Would also take Indian creek recs to prepare for Fine Jade, and the P1 off width of Honeymoon Chimney. I'm thinking wide hand crack would be good for NF, tight hands/fingers for Fine Jade, and then a corner off width to squeeze of some kind for Honeymoon?

Bolting Karen · · La Sal, UT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 56

You can look in the back of the creek book for routes by size, many options for # 3 cracks for NF. Crux on fine jade, for me, was the short section of baggy fingers. Routes that have lots of 0.5 BD would be a good trainer for that, there's at least one at every crag in IC, I would say Cat Wall and Broken tooth probably have the best concentration of that size. Don't write off the #1 roof at the start of Jade either, its no gimmie, pretty much every route at Battle of the Bulge (or laps on Horse Crack) would get you ready for that. Never done Honeymoon so can't really say for sure.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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