Tufa Climbing: Mochilla 33

Josh and Tufa Climbing are back! His original Mochilla pack was awesome for a smaller approach pack and great leader pack. I've had one for years and saved it for more important climbs since he closed up Tufa a number of years ago and there wouldn't be a replacement pack.

Fast forward to this summer and Josh called to tell me he was going to resurrect Tufa with a new alpine pack featuring some fancy new fabrics, slick ideas, and his handmade quality. He sent me a prototype Mochilla 33 in early June. Since then I've thrashed it during a full guiding season in the cascades, on desert rock and in the Black Canyon, and now on ice. It's been up the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, Dragontail Peak, grade IV rock routes, chimneys, I've stuffed in unprotected ice screws and crampons, and generally just used it unkindly. 

It's awesome. It's light. It's wildly durable (and not just for a light pack). It carries well. It disappears climbing. It's close to weatherproof. It's really well made. 

With all my use, I've only managed to put two tiny pin holes in the fabric. No seams have shown signs of wear, it just works for rock, alpine, and ice. It extends enough for an overnight bivy in summer and compresses small enough to lead hard rock. 

If you're in the market for a high end technical pack I'd strongly recommend Tufa. 

The bomb!
I own 2 Mochilla Packs and 3 Houdini Chalk Bags

Climbing over 50 years and Tufa get’s a A+ for gear design and quality

Is a smaller leader pack also in the pipeline? I feel like that's still a gap in the market since the OG Mochilla and Patagonia Linked 16L are both discontinued and G7 haul packs are eternal vaporware. Not sure if anyone else has great recs in that size range. The 30-40L range already has a lot of good options IMO but always happy for more variety ...

Any signs of delamination in the fabric?  I have an Ultra pack I use primarily for backpacking and there appears to be a small amount of delamination occurring.  I seems like this could be more of a problem with a climbing pack.  My fabric is several year sold so perhaps the delamination issue has been solved.

Cool to see Tufa return! I've always had a soft spot for small pack makers. FWIW I have owned several Tufa products for years and have loved them and found them very durable. 

• A Salathe Sack and a Cache Chalk Bag (ordered back in Feb 2021). Both have been used extensively (particularly the chalk bag, obviously) and have been indestructible. I forget specific fabric that was used on them but it was an X-Pac VX-something, I believe. Well made.
• A VX-42 Mochilla from 2017. Super durable and well made.
• Way back in 2015 I ordered an original(?) Mochilla. That pack was made from Cordura I think. I can't remember what denier. I gave that pack away a long time ago to a friend. I've notice that friend still uses that pack and it seems to be doing great!

Darryl Cramer wrote:

Any signs of delamination in the fabric?  I have an Ultra pack I use primarily for backpacking and there appears to be a small amount of delamination occurring.  I seems like this could be more of a problem with a climbing pack.  My fabric is several year sold so perhaps the delamination issue has been solved.

No signs of delam on my pack. Josh has been working and developing fabrics the last few years for a number the big outdoor brands. He's pretty excited about this fabric, I'm guessing it has seen a lot of testing in development. 

Darryl Cramer wrote:

Any signs of delamination in the fabric?  I have an Ultra pack I use primarily for backpacking and there appears to be a small amount of delamination occurring.  I seems like this could be more of a problem with a climbing pack.  My fabric is several year sold so perhaps the delamination issue has been solved.

This was a known issue with the first-generation Challenge Ultra fabrics. Ultra X in theory addresses the delamination issue.

Hi all,
I just wanted to thank everyone for the kind words and support!  I'm excited to be back in the garage making climbing backpacks, and it feels good to relaunch to a psyched community.

TUFA Climbing Crowdfunder - I just launched a 14-day Crowdfunder to purchase materials and get this project off the ground.

I'd be happy to answer any questions people have on either thread.  My email is josh@tufaclimbing.com if you'd like to email me personally.

Much Love,
Josh Kornish

Cole Crawford wrote:

Is a smaller leader pack also in the pipeline? I feel like that's still a gap in the market since the OG Mochilla and Patagonia Linked 16L are both discontinued and G7 haul packs are eternal vaporware. Not sure if anyone else has great recs in that size range. The 30-40L range already has a lot of good options IMO but always happy for more variety ...

I don't have any other packs in the pipeline at the moment.  I spent this last year prototyping and refining the new 33 liter Mochilla, I'm going to focus on producing this Crowdfunder batch, which will start shipping around Valentine's Day - all before June.

This pack has essentially the same frame system as the OG Mochilla and climbers very well throughout it's volume range.  I did make the shoulder straps slightly longer and more ergonomic of a J-Cut.  This is a continuation of the Mochilla concept, and covers everything the OG excelled at.

Kyle Lemoire wrote:

This was a known issue with the first-generation Challenge Ultra fabrics. Ultra X in theory addresses the delamination issue.

I worked at Challenge Sailcloth from 2022-2024, during which we developed the UltraWeave line.  Note that the fabric in the Mochilla 33, Ultra80XT, is a very different construction from the UltraX.

UltraX largely solved the delamination problems found in the original UltraWeave by doing the following: 

Increasing the yarn count, with a tighter weave. Increasing adhesive amount and points of contact with PET. Adding Ultra-PE CrossPly to control bias stretch (how film inner would tear).  Most importantly switching from the recycled PET film to a thicker virgin film that was biaxially oriented.

//

The Ultra80XT uses a 100% Ultra-PE woven with Ultra-PE inserts in the warp and 60* CrossPly.  This is then saturated in a flexible and durable resin which laminates very well to the PET film.  The 50d taffeta inside has an extremely good bond to the PET film as well.  

Delamination hasn't been a problem, and I don't expect it to be with this new style of Ultra.

I could have gone lighter with Ultra100X, but I felt that Ultra80XT represents a better balance of weight and longevity.

For the Fabric Nerds, here's a few closeup shots of the Ultra80XT.

Working with the Ultra80XT to build a Mochilla33.  Cutting with electric octagonal blade:

TUFA Climbing Crowdfunder

Dallin Carey eyeing up a line on Snyder Basin, GNP.  

TUFA Crowdfunder

I don't see any mentioned of Ultra80XT on their site. Is there any other information available on the fabric other than what you mentioned? Is Ultra80XT available to purchase anywhere at this point?

Kyle Lemoire wrote:

I don't see any mentioned of Ultra80XT on their site. Is there any other information available on the fabric other than what you mentioned? Is Ultra80XT available to purchase anywhere at this point?

Hi Kyle,

I created the Challenge Outdoor website and wrote most of that content.  I don’t believe it’s been updated since I left Challenge in February.

The Ultra80XT is a new development from Challenge Sailcloth, and I get the opportunity to be the first brand with a production run.  A couple designers got fabric samples from Challenge, but they won’t officially release this fabric until sometime next year. It isn’t available to purchase at this time.

Let me know if you have any questions and I’d be happy to help!

Josh Kornish wrote:

Hi Kyle,

I created the Challenge Outdoor website and wrote most of that content.  I don’t believe it’s been updated since I left Challenge in February.

The Ultra80XT is a new development from Challenge Sailcloth, and I get the opportunity to be the first brand with a production run.  A couple designers got fabric samples from Challenge, but they won’t officially release this fabric until sometime next year. It isn’t available to purchase at this time.

Let me know if you have any questions and I’d be happy to help!

Could you supply some more fabric specs? Like the weight per sqyd or gsm? Also would love some abrasion and tear data if available - especially when compared to Ultra 100X or 200X. :)

Martin Hoy wrote:

Could you supply some more fabric specs? Like the weight per sqyd or gsm? Also would love some abrasion and tear data if available - especially when compared to Ultra 100X or 200X. :)

Hi Martin,

Thanks for your question.  Here’s some specs for the Ultra80XT.  I do not have a taber test at this time, but field testing has shown excellent results, which is more indicative of true fabric performance.

Weight: 160gsm

Tear: 300+ lbs (per Challenge)

Waterproof: 200+ PSI 

Here is a link to a fabric spec sheet for Ultra100X and Ultra200X. I initially was prototyping with Ultra100X, with excellent results, but I switched to the new Ultra80XT for better longevity and strength at essentially the same weight.

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/62018e9b29f2cd0fc23c3a0c/t/64ee63d895b1810f126a83ae/1693344728933/2023_EcoPak-Guide_v7.pdf

Above is a photo of the black Ultra100X.  This would be my next choice fabric if I didn’t have access to the Ultra80XT.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Best,

Josh

Above are some photos of prototypes in the Ultra100X.  If we sell out of our Ultra80XT and can’t access more, we’ll do a run of these.

Josh Kornish wrote:

Hi Martin,

Thanks for your question.  Here’s some specs for the Ultra80XT.

Above is a photo of the black Ultra100X.  This would be my next choice fabric if I didn’t have access to the Ultra80XT.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Best,

Josh

That sounds great! :)

However: Be mindful about delamination with Ultra 100X - I’ve had it happen on the back of my previous pack after roughly a year of use. :/

Martin Hoy wrote:

That sounds great! :)

However: Be mindful about delamination with Ultra 100X - I’ve had it happen on the back of my previous pack after roughly a year of use. :/

Hi Martin,

I’d suggest patching that small delaminated tear with a UltraTNT PSA patch.  Both Rockywoods and Ripstop should sell that product and it’s a quick and easy repair.

Josh Kornish wrote:

Hi Martin,

I’d suggest patching that small delaminated tear with a UltraTNT PSA patch.  Both Rockywoods and Ripstop should sell that product and it’s a quick and easy repair.

I did, but there are more spots all over the back panel… Not all have a tear but many already delaminated.

Don’t get me wrong: I do think Ultra or Ultra X is a nice fabric, but it’s not the grail material I had hoped it to be. That’s why I’m eagerly awaiting the TX line and also am experimenting with Aluula right now.

I was about to buy a Mochilla in 2021 and suddenly Tufa disappeared. I’ve enjoyed using my Tufa chalkbag and it appeared that I’d not be able to replace it when it finally wears out.

Thanks for going back into business, Josh, and I’m looking forward to using one of your new packs.