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Best Alpine Climbs/Locations in the World!

Original Post
Kelsey Lynne · · Bend, OR · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Hi all, I’m looking for some inspiration for some alpine climbing trips to take this summer! I’m looking for more long epic 5.9-5.11 routes (also open to big walls or obscure places) as well as places that are great to go for a few weeks. Some routes I’ve done and places I’ve been are:

Routes:

- Complete N ridge of Mt Stuart, WA 5.9

- Beckey-Chouinard, Bugaboos 5.10

- Positive Vibrations, Sierras 5.11

- Black Elk, Wind river range, 5.11


Places:

- Washington pass

- Enchantments

- Wind River Range

- Sierras

- RMNP

- Bugaboos

- Chamonix 


What are some more similar routes or places you’d add to the list? I’ve thought a little about Norway and Cirque of the Unclimbables!

Eric Engberg · · Westborough, MA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Why do you think they call it Alpine?  So yes Cham  Or the Dolomites if you want something akin to the Sierra, RNMP or the Bugs.

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Chamonix 

Jon Banks · · Longmont, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 231

Arrigetch Peaks look intriguing

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

Have you looked at the Filidor Plaisir book series? Swiss Alps plus. 

Closer to home the Valhalla group.

ChrisMurphy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

Baffin Island

Caleb · · Ward, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 270

Frey and Arenales in Argentina are excellent alpine rock areas.  There’s also this little place called Patagonia.

Grant Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 154

Hey Kelsey! I would be surprised if you haven't heard of, if not already done, some of these, but making lists about big summer alpine routes makes me stoked!

"Local":

In Canada, pick off Slesse, Life in Space, Nesakwatch Spires, Mighty Mouse, Springbok Arete. The Alpine Select Climbs and Scrambles of SW BC book makes me wish I could do nothing all summer but climb there.

Theres a new multi- up in WA Pass thats gotten some hype (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/124480260/salad-days)[Liza and Kurt did the easier one next door and loved it] and, at your level, hitting up The Hitchhiker is a must I hear. Clean Break and Rebel Yell would be sick too.

Or get way back there in the Cascades and hit the Gunsights, Bear Mountain, East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, or NW Face of Forbidden.

Regional driving range:

Sawtooths would be an easy target!

Getting to remote granite in BC like the Leaning Towers

There's a lot of cool zones in the Wind River Range outside the Cirque ripe for exploring (Deeplake, Monolith Cirque, Baptiste Lake, Ambush Lake)

Lots of cool stuff in the Tetons that would be worth spending some time.

Palisades

Flying range

Black Canyon in Colorado.

Mendenhall towers would be epic!

Spending a month in Kyrgyzstan would be wicked.

or why not take the winter off and spend time in Chile/Argentina!

Mitchell McAuslan · · Spokane, WA · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 2,164

The Waddington range is awesome 

cubist A · · New York, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 10

Bregaglia, Swiss-Italian border. Think Cirque of the Towers x 20.

Jacques Lepesant · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 200

Central Alps around Furka Pass, Grimsel Pass and Susten Pass. Tons of superb climbing ... way less crowds than im Cham and big classics like Salbitschijen west ridge, the limestone superroutes at Wendenstöcke, 1500ft granite dome 'Eldorado' , slabclimbing testpieces at Handegg and many more. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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