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G5s or Spantik for AK Kahiltna Routes?

Original Post
Chase Popp · · Bailey, CO · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 26

Hello, 

I am looking for some advice on boots for AK routes on the Kahiltna. We are thinking of doing Bacon and Eggs and hopefully the SW ridge on Frances. Question is, would the La Sportiva G5 be adequate for late May? Obviously the G5 is much lighter and the BOA laces are much better than the Spantik, however I do NOT want to risk my toes. Thoughts?

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,395
Chase Popp wrote:

Hello, 

I am looking for some advice on boots for AK routes on the Kahiltna. We are thinking of doing Bacon and Eggs and hopefully the SW ridge on Frances. Question is, would the La Sportiva G5 be adequate for late May? Obviously the G5 is much lighter and the BOA laces are much better than the Spantik, however I do NOT want to risk my toes. Thoughts?

Chase, If I were you, I'd go with a double boot like the Spantiks.

I've been using G2's for several years and been pretty happy with them.  You can still get some pretty cold temps up there at that time of year, and double boots are a little nicer to deal with at camp on expeditions.

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,646

I think it depends on what time of year you go.  If you are up there in April then I wouldn't go without a double boot.  If you go in mid to late May then you would probably have no problem with a single boot.  That said I have climbed several routes around the Ruth with single boots (La Sportiva Nepal) in April, but I took both a single and a double.  It was just warm and single boots were not a problem at all.

Pat Marrinan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 25

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/125679837/mount-hunter-in-may-single-or-double-boot-required

Your routes are not as high as Hunter but general AK mindset for footwear discussed thoroughly here

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

To echo Jason and Pat, go with a double boot. 

You might be able to get away with a single boot, but if you get hit with weather where a single boot won't cut it you're screwed. Why risk it? 

Fwiw, I've never been there and wished I had a single boot. I've definitely been glad that I had a double boot for the reassurance of warmth, and the ability to get the liner dry. 

Michael T · · WA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 672

The ability to dry out sweaty liners is by far the most important reason to bring double boots on any multi day winter trip.

Far more important IMO than the added warmth.

I brought both Phantom Techs (old gen spiral zipper) and (new gen) 6000’s to the Ruth and Kahiltna last April-May. Used the techs maybe 2 of 30 days and definitely didn’t find the added performance worth the luggage cost.

Do yourself a favor and invest in some modern boots like the G2 or Phantom 6k. They will last you a very long time as long as you’re nice to the zipper.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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