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Progression of Mt Hood Routes

Original Post
Ben Flowers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

I've done around 20 grade II & III alpine climbs in the PNW (including Hood old chute twice) and want to build my steep snow / easy ice skills this winter and spring. A friend lent me his Hood climber's guidebook recently and it seems like there's a wide variety of routes that naturally lend themselves to a progression. I'm wondering how sensible this progression seems to you all and if the grades seem accurate (esp since the guidebook is around 10 years old now and things change). I will list the guidebook grades follow by the MP grades in this format (Guidebook rating / MP rating)

1) S Side Old Chute (grade II / AI1 easy snow)

2) S Side Pearly Gates (same as above)

3) Steel Cliff S Face (Grade II+ / AI2 steep snow)

4) Leuthold Couloir (Grade II / moderate snow)

5) Devil's Kitchen Headwall (Grade II, WI3 / AI2-3 Steep Snow)

6) North Face Right Gully (Grade III WI3 / WI3 Mod Snow) 

...

7) Yocum Ridge (Grade IV AI3, AI3 Steep Snow)

Note: I know this progression has to be complemented by other WI climbing especially before doing any WI3 leading. 

I'm also curious how some of these routes compare to similar mixed routes in WA like Colchuck NEB Couloir,  Triple Couloirs, Kautz, Baker N Ridge, etc. 

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 448

Good info on progressing to harder Hood routes here: https://youtu.be/UENld2FMARk?si=1nlVlsWFOEst3guA

Ben Flowers wrote:

3) Steel Cliff S Face (Grade II+ / AI2 steep snow)

4) Leuthold Couloir (Grade II / moderate snow)

5) Devil's Kitchen Headwall (Grade II, WI3 / AI2-3 Steep Snow)

6) North Face Right Gully (Grade III WI3 / WI3 Mod Snow) 

The grades for all of these seem accurate.  Conditions are everything for alpine ice, so a route that is normally easy AI3 can be a horror show if it's thin ice on crappy rock.

Getting good conditions on the crux ice step on Steel Cliff S. Face can be tricky because it gets direct sun.  It's been on my to-do list for a while but it's not always in.  Looks like a cool route though!

NFRG is a big step up from all of the other routes on this list, in terms of scale and also technical difficulty (on MP, it's listed as a Grade IV).  DKH has <500 feet of technical climbing, NFRG has more like 2,000 ft.  Something like the Reid Headwall would be a good prerequisite, because it is longer than the south side stuff.

7) Yocum Ridge (Grade IV AI3, AI3 Steep Snow)

Yocum is a different type of climb than all the other routes on this list, because it's a different medium (rime ice), protection is very challenging, and retreat is difficult.  The technical grade doesn't fully encapsulate how serious it is.

I'm also curious how some of these routes compare to similar mixed routes in WA like Colchuck NEB Couloir,  Triple Couloirs, Kautz, Baker N Ridge, etc. 

The climbing on Kautz is pretty easy (easier than DKH) but it's way bigger and the glacier travel is more complex because of Rainier's size.  Baker's ice pitches can be steeper but it's closer in scale to things on Hood.  A climber who is well within their comfort zone on DKH, NFRG, and Reid should have no problem with either of these objectives from a technical perspective.  Rainier has a lot of logistical stuff that can be tricky coming from the fast in-a-day style of climbing we do on Hood.

Triple Couloirs varies a lot (it can be hard climbing, and it also has been skied) but you'd want to show up prepared to lead ice, mixed, and a lot of snow.  It's a big face.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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