Repelling Squawstruck?

i’m looking at climbing squawstruck next april but thought it would be nice to repel down it before it gets too cold so i can get an idea of how each climb is. has anyone done this and does anyone have any advice?

Max Wolfley wrote:

i’m looking at climbing squawstruck next april but thought it would be nice to repel down it before it gets too cold so i can get an idea of how each climb is. has anyone done this and does anyone have any advice?

Whoa, that’s one hell of a recon! Rapping 22 pitches sounds pretty brutal to me.

I haven’t climbed this route, so take my advice for what it’s worth (not much!). But I suggest two potentially better alternatives.

Read the extensive comments by the dozens of people who have climbed and left detailed beta.

Or, if you’re set on getting hands-on info, just rap down a few pitches from the top, climb out, and walk back down the trail. That will show you the descent and give you a good idea of the climbing, while also saving you many hours of tedium and toil.

Best of luck to you in the spring!

J W has it right.  I've climbed it twice and rapping that whole thing would be a super crappy experience.  Most of the tough pitches are in the top block, so hiking to the top and rapping down the top 5-6 pitches to the big ledge and working those pitches would be worthwhile, but I wouldn't go any further than that.  If you can handle those pitches, you can handle the rest.

I’ve made many mistakes in my climbing life and I have learned from all of them.  Therefore I urge you to rappel Squawstruck.

DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, RAPPEL SQUASTRUCK.

DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, RAPPEL SQUASTRUCK.  

You should hang out with that guy that wanted to haul a portaledge up Perlas.

1. Metric ton of loose rock will rain from above and down below you. 

2. Sooo many things for your rope to snag on when you pull your rope and could get it stuck

3. Several traversing pitches that would be a PITA to rappel. 

If you are in decent shape (can climb all day) and you can climb 11c in American Fork canyon (Similar rock) then you can do this route. If you really want a test run do the first 8-10 pitches and do the walk off. Lower half should feel like low 5.10 (10a/b) for your party and you should be able to do it in around 3-4 hours. If those are both true then you are probably ready to do the full thing. 

if you don't know the difference between rappelling and repelling, rappelling squawstruck might not be for you.