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Edelrid Ohmega

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Jim L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

What does it do???  Ohm on steroids?

Jim L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Bruno Schull wrote:

What does it do???  Ohm on steroids?

It makes Tommy Caldwell's life so much easier™

Andrew R · · Marion, IA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Something for lead rope solo?

I see they have this website. And posted a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTTDRX6RTWc

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72

Very well could be for LRS as it coincides with there LRS - Risk assessment release(linked above by Andrew), which is a great watch/read.
They are stepping up.

Jarrod Pelphrey · · Lexington, Kentucky · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Jim L wrote:

It makes Tommy Caldwell's life so much easier™

If finding a partner for big wall adventures is difficulty for Tommy, then a LRS device would make his life much easier

Caleb Mallory · · Maple Valley, WA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 425

Simul climbing device? 

Jim L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Caleb Mallory wrote:

Simul climbing device? 

That was my guess

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,242

Not a LRS device, I would bet good money on this.IMO, the LRS video is tied to the Pinch(corrected). It’s a good watch but not a sales piece for a new solo device. 

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72
Kevin Stricker wrote:

Not a LRS device, I would bet good money on this.IMO, the LRS video is tied to the Cinch

I think you mean pinch I hope!

It’s a good watch but not a sales piece for a new solo device. 

No its not, but to lay out a stance as a company around soling and a risk assessment of the various parts of that modality, then dropping a new device that lessens the risks outlined in that video would be a pretty solid marketing play. Little teaser, and them BAM, shakin' up the solo world.
Its becoming popular enough that several companies are have made or attempting to make LRS devices for mass use. Sulu from AC, and El mudo come to mind.

And to me Edelrid likes to push designs to advance equipment in the climbing space more so than the other major MFGs, which I appreciate. Of course time will tell, and it could just be another Ohm, just doesnt seem too likely when they pushed out the Ohm 2 only this year if I remember correctly.

Noel Z · · UK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 15

In Edelrid's risk assessment video of LRS they addressed the connection to the device. Some mitigators proposed for this were ANSI 'biners, but soft connections came up more than once. Just maybe the band material on the Megaohm is a means of connection. Just a plausible guess. Their Pinch has a 'biner-free connection option so Edelrid is maybe continuing in this vein. It may also be a cash loop keeper that pairs with the Pinch for LRS. I'm thinking a rocker of sorts, which would cause the Pinch to lock during low inertia falls. Their risk assessment also rightly addressed this for certain falls. 

Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

@ Noel -- that's the most reasonable explanation I've heard...so part of a LRS system with a Pinch for a primary device and the Ohmega for cache loop management and perhaps some kind of backup. 

Which begs the question...how does the Pinch work for LRS?  Can you attach the device with no carabiner oriented ninetely degress to how one would nortmally belay, and does that perhaps help with rope feed?

Noel Z · · UK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 15

If you rewatch Edelrid's video closely you'll see the pinch is inverted, just like a grigri would be. The video also shows a modified Pinch beside a modified grigri with a cord loop for a possible chest rig. You'll have to watch closely and Edelrid gives lots of disclaimers. I think a Spoc is used for the cache loop. 

This mystery device's name has ohm in it. The ohm we already know is essentially a resistor and maybe a good option as a cache loop device with enough resistance to guarantee the triggering of the LRS device's cam. Has anyone ever tested an ohm for this?

Thomas Worsham · · Youngstown, OH · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 85

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCmTEGDsBG8/?igsh=MTNkYzN6d25jZjdscQ==

Another teaser from Edelrid on instagram today.

Patrick Stefanski · · Sparkill, NY · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0
Noel Z wrote:

 Has anyone ever tested an ohm for this?

The ohm is so freaking heavy.  There's gotta be something better

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Maybe something for minimal weight differences? 

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

Teaser short from Epic TV shows it attached to the wall and catching a fall like a regular Ohm.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MJwayL6IpNs

Andy Shoemaker · · Bremerton WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 70
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Looks quite interesting. The sling thing is totally weird. Probably huge mistake with the design - looks relatively flimsy, will require routine replacement similar to cam sling replacement. 

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87
amarius wrote:

Looks quite interesting. The sling thing is totally weird. Probably huge mistake with the design - looks relatively flimsy, will require routine replacement similar to cam sling replacement. 

Since when is a sewn sling flimsy? I don't think having to replace the sewn sling in 5-8 years is a design killing flaw, otherwise no one would want to buy cams. I am interested to know if there is anything special about the sling other than the user markings. It also looks like the pin that holds the sling is removable with a hex wrench so you might not even need to send it anywhere to replace the sling.

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 295

Ok so I watched the longer video on it, and I get that he is calling it a belay assistant device but this strikes me as just a more functional fall arresting device like the ohm or zaed except with an extra couple features. That has a place and all but yeah, I guess I was hoping for something a little different. Unless I'm missing something.

(Not coming out until August 2025 btw)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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