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Edelrid boa eco too much stretch, long falls

Original Post
Robert Vasilieff · · North County, San Diego · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Any one have issues with this rope and feeling like they fall way father than other ropes? I weigh about 185 and have a 40 m gym version taking a fall at the same place as before with a different rope and actually collided with my belayer from about the 4th clip in the gym. I also took a fall outside on a friends 60m version and fell at the bolt about 60’ up and went about 15-20’. With my sterling and mammut ropes I do not fall nearly as far. 

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Did you check the dynamic elongation spec before buying it? Ropes do have different dynamic elongations. And by standard, they are tested and advertised

B Y · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 15

You may need to check-in with your belayers. That rope has the same dynamic elongation as most other ropes at about 32% at the first fall. Some Sterling ropes clock in at around 29% Ive had 2 of those ropes at 70m and never really felt as if it was too dynamic to even feel a noticeable difference compared to my other ropes. Im also assuming you're talking about a 9.8 mm diameter. 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

There are many variables that will determine how far you fall…. rope stretch being just one. In my mind, the first variable to eliminate, as previously mentioned, would be your belayers and how they manage the belay, slack, etc…

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Here is what I noticed belaying and catching people in the gym - thickness of rope and sheath may have a very significant factor in how much friction gets added to the system. I haven't done any research, but with brand new manufacturer 1 9.8mm gym rope falls were shorter than manufacturer 2 9.5mm gym rope. Both ropes where being described as "designed for gym usage".

Climber was the same

 

Logan Peterson · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 241

Another variable to consider would the histories of the ropes you're comparing. I recently bought a new gym rope (go ahead and make fun of me), and was surprised at how far I was falling. Go figure, every other gym rope I've had was a retired section of an old lead line. Is it possible that the other ropes you're used to had lost their bounce, but the Boa still has it?

M A · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 22

I had an edelrid rope, a 60m non-eco boa I think, and that was consistently an issue. Even sitting on the rope top roping could send you 6-10 feet.

Micah Robinson · · SFBA · Joined Mar 2024 · Points: 0

Similar experience on my boa eco - super stretchy, especially in static elongation (i.e. TR falls). Makes it a bit awkward for TR, but a really nice lead rope.

Seriously Moderate Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Climbing on Boa Eco for years (indoor only) and don't find it stretchy at all.

Robert Vasilieff · · North County, San Diego · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Yes it’s the 9.8 version. After I found I did not like it I bought a new sterling gym rope. The edelrid is noticeably more stretch or fall distance compared to my new sterling. My friends 60 or 70m was older that I used the other weekend and pretty much same issue I had with mine, more stretch/longer fall distance. With the newer eco boa I was using in the gym it was numerous falls with same belayers who I am confident with, not a slack feeding issue. Both belayers are lighter and one of them I use an ohm device with and this helps, however it’s still noticeable comparing with my other rope.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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