Bouldering Shoes Confusion
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Hi everybody, I am 16 trying to get into bouldering after growing up top roping and single-pitch trad climbing. I have been looking into getting two pairs of shoes (an edge shoe and a non-edge shoe, or bouldering vs other was my rational) to replace my dads old LS finales, with a pair of bouldering oriented shoes being the first priority. I think I narrowed it down to either the scarpa instinct vsr or the la sportiva skwamas, but would love input from anyone that has experience or info, or another shoe recommendation. The other pair I am looking to get are the LS katakana laces (for more vertical edgy stuff, ie. top rope), but am open to advice here as well. Most of my climbing now is in the gym. Thanks! |
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The instinct VSR and skwama fill reasonably similar niches, and have the same rubber, both have toehook rubber, and both are intermediate or semi soft in stiffness, so in this case fit is king.
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I think nothing beats the Miura VS for rope climbing (outside). For bouldering just try on different shoes, toe and heel fits are very specific. In my personal opinion, a lot of the very expensive shoes are overrated and unnecessary for indoor climbing, since they make very little difference. The same holds for the sock-like ultrasoft shoes. Instinct VSR and Skwama fit very different in my opinion, the heel on the VSR doesn't fit me at all. Skwamas have a weird stiff heel cup that people love or hate (hate it). Personally, I prefer the La Sportiva Python to the Skwama. These can regularly be found fairly cheap, and the leather molds to your foot better. The old Five Ten Hiangle were also a great shoe, not sure if produced anymore. I think Unparallel makes a similar model (Regulus). I wouldn't bother with an extra pair for indoor lead, as footholds on indoor climbs are generally much larger compared to outside and often involve smearing. Buy whatever is on sale and fits your feet. I often buy discounted NOS and used wrong-size-buys from ebay or other places. |
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Thanks so much for the info! I am asking for these for Christmas, so it sounds like the gift will be a trip to the closest store that sells climbing shoes. I guess my real question would be: either is there one shoe I should get that would work well for both gym bouldering and top rope, or is it better to get two pairs. If two pairs is the way to go, which would be best. (I do not need top tier, but would rather pay an extra $25, as I feel I am experienced enough to actually get the benefits.) |
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I love both the VSR and the Sqwama, but the Instinct line fits my foot really well, and is therefor my go to shoe for many styles of climbing. They are both great shoes, get the one that fits your foot best is my advice. |
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Most intermediates don’t need a quiver unless they’re limit bouldering one day and climbing multipitch trad another day. These days I climb on both ends of that spectrum with comfortably sized Miura lace (even though I have lots of shoes), but I’m willing to sacrifice some performance for comfort. You’ll eventually build up a quiver as you send pairs in for resole and need replacements. (btw, Not sure if the default advice is still to downsize aggressively, but seriously don’t do that) |
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Not really related but if I'm unemployed and want a pair of shoes for this sport, any suggestions for me? |
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So what I am getting is that edging is not really as necessary in the gym? More smearing? And does that hold true on both bouldering and top rope? |
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Most gyms should set a mix of crimpy / edgy routes, slopey / smeary, and steep / power / dyno routes (particularly in the bouldering area) so there's not really a lot more of one particular style. You are probably better off with an all-around shoe than something that is very specific (eg super soft or aggressively downturned). |
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Makes sense. Would the skwama or instinct vsr fit as an all around shoe? (I know that all around shoes don't really exist, but close enough?) |
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Eli D wrote: Yes, both are definitely an all around shoe. |
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Skwama is great all around |
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Eli D wrote: It isn’t. For what it’s worth, I have never head more than one pair of gym shoes. Neither do any of the people I climb with, and many of them climb 5.13 outside in a session. Most of them only have one pair of shoes for all their climbing. I do have dedicated shoes for outside climbing (stiffer sole) and bouldering (very small size since I only go bouldering when it’s freezing), but it’s definitely a luxury, and more to do with the convenience of keeping shoes at the gym and not unpacking after going out. The gains of having a closet full of climbing shoes are marginal. |
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Sounds good! And I was looking through some other threads, and noticed a lot of "bump" messages. New here, and wondering what that means? |
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If you comment on a thread it moves back to the top of the list of threads. If you just want it to move up, but have nothing new to say, you can just type “bump.” Common in “for sale” threads where people want their listing to remain visible on the first page of threads. It’s called “bumping” a thread to make it move back to the top, hence the word “bump” as the comment. |
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That makes sense. What is the difference between the skwama and solution comp? Normal solution and solution comp? Are those be soft enough to get torn up outside? Or should they be good. I don't want to buy a nice pair of shoes, then destroy them outside. |
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By that I mean do I need separate shoes for bouldering inside and outside? |
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Fit matters more than any advice you will get on here. A shoe may work great for one person but not fit right for someone else. Fit for your foot shape is crucial. |
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Eli D wrote: I think that depends on a number of factors: type of shoe, rubber, style of climbing (crack, face, comp, etc.), quality of your footwork, and geology (sandstone, granite, limestone, etc.), to name a few. I would plan to start with a good all-around shoe (I like the Tenaya Oasi and Scarpa Vapor V, but there are plenty of others) or just go full modern gym-shoe (Drago [LV]) if that’s your primary outlet. Plan to resole and build your shoe quiver over time. |
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If you're on a budget and know your climbing shoe size check mercari - lots of deals to be had like %50-70 off barley used shoes also check oliunid.com and bananafingers/epictv - better prices than US stores. |
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Andy R wrote: Mercari can be good, but 1) they shifted seller fees to the buyer and 2) there's been an uptick in fake listings. Just be aware and do your due diligence. |