What dose your hang board session look like?

I wanna know what do you do in your hangboard sessions, what do your sets look like?

Franklin Farrell wrote:

I wanna know what do you do in your hangboard sessions, what do your sets look like?

Max hangs, so 7sec on and 53sec off for eight sets, on a 14mm edge, with as much weight added as possible while staying in control of each hang. 

I do this one-third of the way through a normal workout, with limit bouldering right afterwards.

Not sure how long you've been climbing or training, but it would be worth asking a knowledgeable staff member or coach at your gym what they would recommend for you. 

That may be "get a bunch of climbing for the next six months and let your tendons and footwork develop, then worry about finger strength."

About a year ago I switched from hangs/lifts to curling with a force meter. That's nice since it makes it very easy to auto-regulate: I'll set force/rep, reps/set, and sets/workout cutoffs and just do as many reps per set and sets per workout as possible within those parameters. 80%/8/3 with two grips worked well for me for strength. I haven't trained endurance but I think this method could easily be adapted for that.

To illustrate with some easy numbers, if my max in a grip is 100lbs, then I'll…

1. Perform as many reps in a set as possible, stopping when force drops below 80lbs or I hit eight reps.
2. Repeat for three sets, resting fully between sets. (My three-set cutoff came about from experimenting with an auto-regulated set cutoff; three ensures I can train both grips effectively.)
3. Move to the next grip (with a corresponding force cutoff).

A rep is just a 2–3 second maximum contraction with slow onset. I built a little platform out of scrap wood that I use for this, standing above it as if doing a mid-thigh pull. I try to curl solely with my hands and avoid shrugging the weight.

For grips, I do one where I pull with a flat fingertip (targeting the FDS muscle) and another where I try to curl the fingertip into the edge (targeting the weaker FDP muscle). If I want to target specific grips like small crimps or pockets, I no longer even try training those on a hang board. I just set specific problems on my woody targeting those grips and do lots of static-y sets on them.

FWIW I think you could adapt this methodology to a hang board, but you'll have to be careful / self-aware to match perceived effort to actual output. It's a lot easier to overdo the intensity and volume on a hang board than with a force meter, so erring on the side of "too little" is probably a good bet.