Should I build a 30 or 45 degree home spray wall?

So, I'm looking to build a home spray wall so I can have long uninterrupted sessions, but I've reached a predicament about which angle the wall should be. The kind of boulders I want to train for, is outdoor boulders with big and explosive moves with slopey holds. I can't really decide if I should build a 30 degree wall and have a big portion of the holds be slopers to train compression, or build a crimpy 45 degree board to continue building my strength and instead use the gym for compression training

I think you would be upset with a 30 deg wall. I use a 35-40 and I feel like that is the sweet spot for training. 

You should build whatever wall will get you the most psyched. Build the wall that you want, and that you'll actually use. 

Also you can definitely set heinous crimp problems at 30. 

I built my home (spray-style) wall fixed at 35 degrees and wish I had gone to 40.  20 and 40 are the standards that most light-up boards set their problem libraries at and 40 is the most common of all.  I find that my own home board sets me up to struggle when I get on a 40 degree.  

That said, my wall does have considerably more variety of movement and hold types than a light-up board and I can set replicas.  Several outdoor hold types and styles (think slopers, feature holds, kneebars etc) aren’t well represented on a flat steep wall like a board.  If that’s what you want to focus on 20-35 degrees is probably better unless you plan on using a lot of volumes and very large holds.

Of course, angle adjustability is best of all.  I regret not making mine adjustable more than I thought I would.

I have a short 30, wish I had a bigger 45

Besides considering your climbing goals and style, space constraints are a big consideration for your wall choice. How tall is your space, and how wide? If you have a 10+ foot ceiling, the lower angle wall could work well. Adam Ondra thinks 35 is the best angle for a spraywall. If you have a low ceiling, a steeper board will give you more climbable surface. See all the UK climbers with cellar boards at 45-55 degrees.

You typically can get more board space out of a steeper angle wall as they require less height. The lower angle the less sq ft you can typically fit in the same space. 

I'd say go with a steeper board if you have the space. You'll get more climbing area. I went with shorter board at 30 degrees to keep more useable area in the room for non-climbing stuff and regret it. I have to add a lot of lateral movement to make problems more than 2 or 3 moves. I also feel like I also have to grab much smaller / less comfortable holds to get the same level of finger training compared to something like a spray wall or Kilter at 40 or 45 - not a huge problem but definitely takes a bit of a skin toll if I'm climbing outside a lot as well. 

Just build an adjustable wall 

Beckett Gilroy wrote:

Just build an adjustable wall 

That is a brilliantly janky design for an adjustable wall. Good work, sir.

How stable is it to climb on?

Very stable, feels nice to use 

40

30 is fine and small holds are cheaper, my 6x12 wall is adjustable to 45 but stays at 30 for simplicity reasons.  I will say my best season on the rock was the season after climbing a 50+ degree wall in the living room all winter.

M M wrote:

30 is fine and small holds are cheaper, my 6x12 wall is adjustable to 45 but stays at 30 for simplicity reasons.  I will say my best season on the rock was the season after climbing a 50+ degree wall in the living room all winter.

If you think about it, using a wall 50+ degrees you have to pull yourself up against gravity a little more, which would seem to make for better training. Walls less than 45 you end up using more of a swinging technique than powering through to the next hold. For training, I would go with 45 - 55 degrees.

Also, if you can work in a change of angle to your wall, that really helps.

If the sole purpose is to get stronger then 45 is the only answer. Worst case scenario: add volumes to make the climbing easier/less steep.

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

If the sole purpose is to get stronger then 45 is the only answer. Worst case scenario: add volumes to make the climbing easier/less steep.

The only answer is too absolute. I would argue that you can get stronger at any angle. I see most answers saying 35-40-45-50-55. I'll throw mine in the ring at 37.5. Very happy with it so far. Volumes are nice. If certain holds are getting too easy keep turning them to make them more difficult or add in smaller crimps or worse slopers. 

Woolly Mammut wrote:

The only answer is too absolute. I would argue that you can get stronger at any angle. I see most answers saying 35-40-45-50-55. I'll throw mine in the ring at 37.5. Very happy with it so far. Volumes are nice. If certain holds are getting too easy keep turning them to make them more difficult or add in smaller crimps or worse slopers. 

I don’t disagree with much of what you’re saying, but most boards these days are 40° or 45° and we’ve seen what the board kids have done to bouldering. V15 is being done in a single session by the kids who grew up training on these system boards. 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

I don’t disagree with much of what you’re saying, but most boards these days are 40° or 45° and we’ve seen what the board kids have done to bouldering. V15 is being done in a single session by the kids who grew up training on these system boards. 

For sure, if your aim is to boulder V15 and above I would go 45. My aim was to have something I can train on and get stronger but also something that's not completely impossible for the family too. I would have way less jugs on the wall if it was just for me. 

Woolly Mammut wrote:

For sure, if your aim is to boulder V15 and above I would go 45. My aim was to have something I can train on and get stronger but also something that's not completely impossible for the family too. I would have way less jugs on the wall if it was just for me. 

The OP/bot’s aim is to get stronger on “explosive moves and slopers”…my suggestion was for the OP/bot, not for you and your family…

30 35 40 45 is to steep. my home wall is 30 but in the other direction. example pic below

Trevr Taylr wrote:

30 35 40 45 is to steep. my home wall is 30 but in the other direction. example pic below

You're rusty