Yosemite Routes for Bad Weather

Hey people! I’ve got a trip planned to the valley this weekend, and the forecast is looking rough. Unfortunately this is one of the only weekends that will work for my partner and I before the end of year, so we’re gonna be stubborn and go no matter the weather.

Kind of hoping that we’ll show up and the forecast will be wrong, and there won’t be snow or rain on Saturday. But if there is…

I’m wondering what routes you all would recommend in the valley that are maybe better protected from rain and snow, or are south facing and will dry quickly? We lead up to 5.10b trad, and are comfortable with multi pitch trad even in bad conditions, but also down for some sport or bouldering if that would be better.

Thanks in advance for your input!

Generator crack 

I have climbed at the chapel wall in the snow/rain and been fine (chilly but fine) 

Also everything dries quick… we did a lap on royal arches in a drizzle 

I applaud you for willing to tough it out. 

What I'm about to say is not what you were asking, so feel free to ignore. Personally, I'd be happy to pack the right layers and put on the appropriate footware to go for some long hikes. Climbing would be subpar when cold and wet, but one can get some amazing views with the precipitation around that you normally don't get to see in Yosemite. It can be awe-inspiring.

Or, if you must do something around climbing, you can go scout out the tricky approach to some dream routes of yours so they are ready for you to crush on your next visit, hopefully blessed with nice weather.

Make sure to pack a headlamp as darkness descends fast these days. 

It's a good time to learn to aid climb. You don't slip on wet rock when aid climbing. It's good skills to have not only for wall climbing, but also for self rescue. If you're caught in a downpour some day and need to aid off it's good to have some experience with it.

The overhanging bolt ladder on the big boulder by the Yosemite Conservation Heritage Center is a great place to start. The bottom of it should be dry. A much bigger goal could be the bottom pitches of Leaning Tower regular route. It's a bolt ladder on the bottom, but there's some mandatory free climbing up by Awahnee Ledge. It should also be dry unless the wind is blowing the rain in. Leave a rope tied to the bottom of the pitches to be able to rap back down.

 Nothing to add other than anecdote that won’t likely pertain to this weekend.

But a few months back i was in the valley during a warm day with persistent showers shutting down most climbing zones. Defaulted to chapel wall and it was expectedly dry, but dear lord was it a grease factory. Seems like during that condition combo (wet/ warm) that the cracks, while dry, absolutely vomit humidity; prime overconfident unsending conditions

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