Colorado ice conditions 24-25

Giving the people what they want...

Random tidbits:

• In case you've been out of state or living under a rock, it's basically been totally dry and hot for a month+
• Until the last 2 days where it "dumped" only a dusting in rmnp(?), 6" on pikes, 2' in the San juans 
• Everyone's favorite early season ice climb is totally bone dry, in fact it has more ice on Sept 29 (yes during a heat wave) than on Oct 20.

Does anyone want to go in on a drill, learn how to place bolts, and create some more dry tooling areas? We need them because of crap like this 

I'd be down but is the issue actually lack of bolts, or lack of rock that hasn't already been rock climbed (either bolted or trad) and thereby designated as "rock climbing only"? 

Ben B wrote:

Does anyone want to go in on a drill, learn how to place bolts, and create some more dry tooling areas? We need them because of crap like this 

Hi B B,

 Can you share a bit more about where in the state you are located and if seriously considering this what general area you have in mind? There are a handful of areas that have this already in place, with a few additional that I would agree are not very known about and held in more private circles to the local communities that put them together. 

Sent you both a PM

So like, first snowfall + drill + bored ice climbers = bolt any rock possible for early season dopamine hit? Is that what ice climbing is all about? Is that what it has come too - “Crap like this?” Asking for a friend…

Mitch D wrote:

So like, first snowfall + drill + bored ice climbers = bolt any rock possible for early season dopamine hit? Is that what ice climbing is all about? Is that what it has come too - “Crap like this?” Asking for a friend…

Just trying to get stronger + more comfortable hanging off tools while we wait for the weather to improve. Hard to do that when there's few dry tooling options available nearby

Would love to hear if anyone has gone and looked at total abandon between last Monday and tomorrow. It was totally ice free but there was 8" of snow that has now been freeze thawing for a week. So I think there's a chance but not enough to make me go spend a day and look at it again lol

Ben B wrote:

Just trying to get stronger + more comfortable hanging off tools while we wait for the weather to improve. Hard to do that when there's few dry tooling options available nearby

Have you considered training? I mean that seriously.

Mitch D wrote:

Have you considered training? I mean that seriously.

Yes, I do train quite a lot. But as with rock climbing, there is no good substitute for moving over real stone. 

Climbed the notch couloir yesterday. Expect lots of brittle AI2 ice climbing, mixed climbing, and choss. The snow was pretty minimal, but it did obscure the last eyebolt rappel anchor on the cables route. Easily downclimbable though. Approach shoes are very helpful for the staircase pitch. 

AMU, far-away pic but enough to tell that it's forming but thinner than last year when p2-3 were drytooling.

View is from this pullout https://maps.app.goo.gl/UgZW2Rs9VBEXrPev5 and you could tell a lot if you had ~10x zoom ability or better (this is 5x) 

interested to hear if anyone's seen Alexander's Chimney after the Halloween storm, seems unlikely since it didn't get above freezing since then but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Ben B wrote:

Yes, I do train quite a lot. But as with rock climbing, there is no good substitute for moving over real stone. 

I think you mean, “moving over real ice.”

Eureka conditions next weekend? Anyone have an update on north facing routes in Eureka? Anything in yet or coming in that might be good for next weekend?

Pitch 1 had little ice on it and we climbed it almost entirely dry. We were foolish and neglected to bring floatation; it took 9 hours to break trail to the base of the route.  We bailed after P1 to avoid getting benighted on the wall.  Perhaps it will be a bit fatter later this week after some more freeze/thaw cycles.

Anyone has eyes on Lincoln? Anything v in RMNP in?

Alex Langfield wrote:

Eureka conditions next weekend? Anyone have an update on north facing routes in Eureka? Anything in yet or coming in that might be good for next weekend?

No routes in for Eureka yet. Second Gully was all snow after 1.5 pitches. The early snow has not been kind to early season ice in the San Juans.

Best be moving on now.

Clear Creek Winter Climbing. 5 pitches M5 R. Done this a few years ago and thought it was a new line, but we found some old pins so it was done before. There is potential for more routes.

Has anyone been up to RMNP recently? It’s been pretty hot and dry in the Front Range (except the day I chose to go rock climbing at Lumpy and froze, of course). Wondering if anything has ice right now or if it’s mostly just thin mixed conditions.

Mark Straub wrote:

Has anyone been up to RMNP recently? It’s been pretty hot and dry in the Front Range (except the day I chose to go rock climbing at Lumpy and froze, of course). Wondering if anything has ice right now or if it’s mostly just thin mixed conditions.

black lake gully is in 

jewell lake is in

AMU is thinning (specifics unknown)

thatchtop gully probably still goes 

hidden falls has info in ticks

the list goes on..

I can confirm that AMU is thinning. If you are looking to get on it right now, I recommend solid mixed climbing skills, stubbies, and a single rack with pitons. I would not climb under another party as the ice is coming off.