Best Ice Axe length for climbing Matterhorn Hornli Ridge?

Hi all,

So what's the best Ice Axe length for climbing Matterhorn Hornli Ridge?

I have heard everything from 50, 55, 57, 60 cm lengths.

Thanks in advance!!

Depends on how tall you are? 

I prefer a 120cm hiking staff. It was good enough for Whymper on the first ascent.

An axe is not needed for a huge amount, so take whatever length you have.

It depends on your height and how steep the route is.

Not really. Depends mostly on the fashion of the decade. That said, I am very unsure of the resurgence of the 70+ cm piolet,  although it is an extremely useful tool. Similar thoughts regarding skis. If you are hiring a guide, ask their opinion. If not, I'd say do the 60, or a 58 if it's going to be a Grivel. I have used all kinds and lengths (50-75cm) extensively in the Canadian Rockies and elsewhere,  I am 5'-10, and a 55 in the mountains is kinda short. If you have to climb a short really steep section, a 60 is, to me,  only marginally more awkward than a 50. And enough longer to be useful in a versatile way on everything else. A 60 can be advantageous for a cruxy move in the vertical world too.

Allen's advice isn't bad either. And if you already have a long one, just take it. But be good at slipping it between your back and pack, and retrieving it from there.  You are likely to find that useful. 

Late or winter season with snow and ice on the route?  I'd prefer a pair of 50cm techy tools.

Summer...probably 50-60cm...a light alpine type.

Used a 70 in the summer of 1985. We rented the axe, boots, and crampons in Zermatt.

As we passed the guided parties since the terrain was well within my comfort zone, (I never placed any gear and brought my friend up with a short rope technique behind me.

My partner Cliff Uzan had only been rock climbing for 2 years and had zero snow and ice climbing experience.

The local guides at the time seemed pissed and unfriendly that we were not  paying for a guide as we passed them on the climb.