Crampon Front Point Angulation

I’m relatively new to ice climbing and I’m trying to understand the reason for crampon front points to angle inward relative to the heel-toe axis of the boot. I use Scarpa, Sportiva, and Mammut boots with Petzl Lynx crampons with monopoints. For all the boots, the default curvature of the crampon and the resultant inward angulation of the front points feels awkward. However, when I reverse the link bars, the front point axis aligns with the heel-toe axis of the boot, but unfortunately this configuration rotates the crampon heel in a way that is more likely to snag the opposite pant leg. The Lynx link bar is curved so I suspect that the inward angle of the point increases as the boot sole length increases. I wear a 44.5 boot which is not that big and yet the inward angle of the front point is pronounced and uncomfortable. I acknowledge that the manufacturers and the pros who help them design equipment probably know quite a bit more than me, so I am trying to fill in my knowledge gaps.

With all that said, I also like to tinker so I made straight link bars for the Lynx to see if the straight bars “fix” the exaggerated inward angulation of the front point and does not result in rotation of the heel pieces. I have not tried to climb in the straight link bars so I am not sure if they fix anything besides my itch to try something between normal curve and reverse curve link bars. The photos below show the comparisons. (A) normal link bar curve results in approximately 9-10 degree inward angulation of monopoint. (B) straight link bar results in 5 degree inward angulation of monopoint. (C) reverse curve link bar results in 2 degree inward angulation. 

Is there an optimal inward angle for front points for ice climbing? Am I learning to climb with poor technique by keeping my front points almost straight (2-5 degrees instead of 10 degrees angled inward)?

Thanks,

Leon

Some people seem to like the pigeon-toed Lynx, but I sure don’t. I understand modern mountain boots are more anatomically correct, but I feel like Petzl took the bend too far. 

Like you, I always found the extreme inward turn of the Lynx front section to be odd.  I figured thay maybe there are some boots that it works on, but all of my various boots gave the same odd results.  I ended up swapping/reversing the link bars, and was very happy with the results.  Like you say, it results in a heel section fit that isn't ideal, but that never bothered me.  FWIW, I now use the Darts and, despite them being very similar to the Lynx in many ways, they seem to not suffer from the pigeon toe problem (and have several other advantages).

I also found the angle weird on Darts. Ended up setting up the toe bail «asymmetrically», using the inner hole on the inside and middle hole on the outside. Tilts the front point just enough outward for me. 

Leo Freo wrote:

I wear a 44.5 boot which is not that big and yet the inward angle of the front point is pronounced and uncomfortable. 

I too have this issue, compounded even more with the long Petzl bar required for my size 49 boots.  I have to flip the bar over, which indeed puts the heel at a weird angle. Had the issue with my G2 Evos and Lynx, and also with Phantom Tech HDs and Darts. Does the Petzl team really think more curve is needed the longer the boot?  

Lemme know if you make a set of the long bars, I'd totally take a pair from you.

Charles Iguana wrote:

Lemme know if you make a set of the long bars, I'd totally take a pair from you.

I designed the straight bars and had them laser cut from 0.1” (12 gauge) stainless steel by oshcut.com. Pretty fast turnaround. If you’re interested I can send you the file and you can order your own.

Leon