Mt Fairweather AK spring 2025

Update Jan 23. We're 2 on the project at the moment. Can still take a 3rd member. Working on May 24th to June 8th.

I am getting an early start on finding a partner for an attempt on mount Fairweather by the normal route for May or June 2025.
I have been mountaineering for about 10 years in both North and South America. Most recently, I came off in spring 2024 from a successful climb on mount Logan, Canada. For 2025, I want to do something similar, but I can only pull 2 consecutive vacation weeks (Denali will have to wait...), hence an attempt on Fairweather.
The actual climb is 1-3 days, but my plan is to allot up to 12 days Haines to Haines, to give lots of room for weather delays, or to use extra days to climb/ski other peaks around.
I already have a good idea of the logistics and strategies, but everything is open to discussion. Skis preferred for the approach but I can be convinced to make it on snowshoes. It can be a good first Alaskan experience assuming mountaineering experience elsewhere, including if you are building up toward Denali another year.
If you have similar ambitions, feel free to give a shout. My goal is that we meet and/or do a smaller expedition somewhere this winter before committing to Alaska. I am from Montreal, Canada.

Me on Logan

The route on Fairweather

Hello Z Hu:

My first interest is in returning to Denali but a Mt Fairweather climb sounds interesting.

I have climbed in Alaska several times...West Ridge of Mt Hunter, the Kahiltna Queen, and a partial ascent of the WB route on Denali. I have ice climbed in the Canadian Rockies near Banff (ice fields parkway)

I am exploring other partners to return to Denali on MP.

Definitely interested in other peaks.  I am competent on ice and snow and have climbed a number of South America peaks up to 7000 meters.

I can meet you anywhere this fall/winter to determine compatibility.

Best, Terry

Terence Woolston wrote:

Hello Z Hu:

My first interest is in returning to Denali but a Mt Fairweather climb sounds interesting.

I have climbed in Alaska several times...West Ridge of Mt Hunter, the Kahiltna Queen, and a partial ascent of the WB route on Denali. I have ice climbed in the Canadian Rockies near Banff (ice fields parkway)

I am exploring other partners to return to Denali on MP.

Definitely interested in other peaks.  I am competent on ice and snow and have climbed a number of South America peaks up to 7000 meters.

I can meet you anywhere this fall/winter to determine compatibility.

Best, Terry

Cool, I have sent you a private message.

Thanks...sent an email to your yahoo account.

Hello, I am interested in this. I have mountaineering experience in the PNW and Himalayas, and have a flexible work schedule.

Seems like you have more mountaineering experience in the north, would love hear what you learned from your Logan trip.

Here’s my number: 8055035102

Julian Madrid wrote:

Hello, I am interested in this. I have mountaineering experience in the PNW and Himalayas, and have a flexible work schedule.

Seems like you have more mountaineering experience in the north, would love hear what you learned from your Logan trip.

Here’s my number: 8055035102

Hey Julian. Texting to your number is a bit difficult since I am from Canada. I have sent you a message to your email.

I’m interested!

Tried to do it years ago but bad weather system didn’t even give us a chance.   I’ve done lots of climbing from Denali (West Butt and South Butt), Mt Huntington (almost killed in avalanches) Mt. Hunter (same as Huntington - arghh) and have summited Everest as well as peaks in Bolivia and Peru..

I live here in Boulder, CO, and have been rock/ice climbing for many years…

It’s a big mountain and  a good objective if the weather permits!

Dick Stone wrote:

I’m interested!

Tried to do it years ago but bad weather system didn’t even give us a chance.   I’ve done lots of climbing from Denali (West Butt and South Butt), Mt Huntington (almost killed in avalanches) Mt. Hunter (same as Huntington - arghh) and have summited Everest as well as peaks in Bolivia and Peru..

I live here in Boulder, CO, and have been rock/ice climbing for many years…

It’s a big mountain and  a good objective if the weather permits!

Sounds like you have more experience than me! I have sent you an email.

Hi guys,

I consider to join if team building is still open. I'm from Poland and my experience is 10 years of climbing above 4000 metres since 2014 (the Alps - Matterhorn, Mt. Blanc. Dufourspitze, Dom;  Causasus - Kazbek) and last 5 years in big mountains also - Bolivia (Sajama, Illimani), Peru (Huascaran Sur and Copa), Argentina (Aconcagua via Vacas + Ameghino), Denali + Mt Rainier in 2023 and Ama Dablam in 2024. Most of them I did solo. Have longer trip planned this year in August but Fairweather is important for me, remote and prominent peak and maybe will find 2 weeks for it.  So you can send me a email or message on WApp: 255 776 156 074 (area code is from other country) and we will discuss. It looks I  cannot join to you in winter for smaller expedition.

Also interested in climbing with partners on harder, more remote and/or difficult peaks like Mt Blackbur, Mt Logan, Gunnbjorn (Greenland), Mt Kenya, maybe San Valentin and in Central Asia. Khan Tengri (with Pik Talgar) is my plan for the next year.

Janusz Wegrzyn wrote:

Hi guys,

I consider to join if team building is still open. I'm from Poland and my experience is 10 years of climbing above 4000 metres since 2014 (the Alps - Matterhorn, Mt. Blanc. Dufourspitze, Dom;  Causasus - Kazbek) and last 5 years in big mountains also - Bolivia (Sajama, Illimani), Peru (Huascaran Sur and Copa), Argentina (Aconcagua via Vacas + Ameghino), Denali + Mt Rainier in 2023 and Ama Dablam in 2024. Most of them I did solo. Have longer trip planned this year in August but Fairweather is important for me, remote and prominent peak and maybe will find 2 weeks for it.  So you can send me a email or message on WApp: 255 776 156 074 (area code is from other country) and we will discuss. It looks I  cannot join to you in winter for smaller expedition.

Also interested in climbing with partners on harder, more remote and/or difficult peaks like Mt Blackbur, Mt Logan, Gunnbjorn (Greenland), Mt Kenya, maybe San Valentin and in Central Asia. Khan Tengri (with Pik Talgar) is my plan for the next year.

Hey Janusz. We're two on the project at the moment, and could take a third. I have sent you an email.

Hey Z Hu, I'm interested in joining your party if y'all are still looking for climbing partners. I have mainly climbed the California 14ers, including Shasta Avalanche Gulch, and attempted Rainier Disappointment Cleaver. Was looking to climb Orizaba early this year, but my partner fell through, so am looking for new adventures. 

I have my AIARE 1, Wilderness First Responder, proficient in Crevasse Rescue and have a decent amount of team gear for glacier travel. Looking for new partners, and good vibes, and Fairweather sure sounds fun :)

Chin H wrote:

Hey Z Hu, I'm interested in joining your party if y'all are still looking for climbing partners. I have mainly climbed the California 14ers, including Shasta Avalanche Gulch, and attempted Rainier Disappointment Cleaver. Was looking to climb Orizaba early this year, but my partner fell through, so am looking for new adventures. 

I have my AIARE 1, Wilderness First Responder, proficient in Crevasse Rescue and have a decent amount of team gear for glacier travel. Looking for new partners, and good vibes, and Fairweather sure sounds fun :)

Cool, I have sent you an email.

This is a pretty good post I think, with their summit strategy of flying in and skinning up, then summiting the same day they flew in