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Pulling up all the extra rope before the 2nd cleans?

Original Post
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I was in the Meadow with someone and they mentioned doing this. I’ve cleaned hundreds of aid pitches and I’ve never felt that the weight of the rope was big deal. I could see having a rope bag dangling from your harness and bagging the rope as you clean if it’s crazy windy, but is the weight really such an issue?

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,646

I think like most topics there are places where it makes sense and others were it doesn't.  Generally I don't think it takes any more time from an efficiency standpoint.  It would take me less than a minute to pull up an extra 50-70ft of rope (assuming rope drag wasn't bad), and it would take my follower under a minute to sort out the end of the rope and tie a couple of backup knots to make manageable loops.  If the less weight/fewer loops = less faff for your follower than it might make sense to do.  Personally I would pull up more if:

-I needed a long tether line to space haul
-I wanted to start leading the next pitch on a self belay
-It was super windy
-My follower was going to re-aid the pitch
-The pitch traversed such that I have a lip or roof below me that might require me to rap to unstick the bags
-Possibly with a newer person (not that they couldn't do it but it might save time with less faff for them).  

I would consider leaving all the rope out if:

-The belay was super tight space wise (especially when hauling)
-The 2nd is planning to lower out pendulums
-If my 2nd wasn't going to tie into the end for some reason

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

On a traversing/overhanging pitch, the benevolent leader always pulls up the excess lead rope, leaving only enough for lower-outs if needed. 

On a plumb pitch, it matters not since you're jugging straight and don't need to tie backup knots or use a GriGri. 

Now if the leader is gonna take off on solo GriGri lead...

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 50

I thought thought the cool kids neither pull-up the slack nor tie in short while following these days: i.e. freesnake

You cats are old school   

Jack Mullen · · Crested Butte, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

Recently tried this out: 

Leader pulls up no slack, follower ties left over rope into some backup knots and continues with backup knots to the top. Once there, clip backup knot carabiner to the anchor and don't flake or coil. For the next pitch the belayer just carefully unties backup knots one by one. Whatever is left at the end of the pitch is already in backup knot form and the follower can just clip to harness and go.

Definitely there's a trick to making sure you remove and untie backup knots in the correct order and without tangle. But if you take your time and stay ahead of it it's pretty casual at the aid belay pace.

Alec Berghoef · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 85

Wait you guys tie into the end of the rope?

Erik Sloan · · Yosemite, CA · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 336

i teach to just pull up the amount you want for your space haul or to move around the belay if you're using a 2:1, either way usually just 10 - 18 ft - nice to not have extra rope where then the leader is also tying into the anchor short again.......main advantage not posted here yet is that you are less likely to get a coreshot in the middle of your rope if you don't pull up all the slack - the edges tend to be right by the belay so it would at least be at the end, and no extra rope messing you up at the belay means you will probably see it, the sharp edge, while space hauling and try to pad it or mitigate it in some way.....totally silly suggesting the 2nd needs to do anything with the rope, just jug the pitch and let the rope weight make your grigri backup feed smoothly and then once you get to the belay coil the lead line all together easily instead of having to unfix it in the middle because you pulled up slack......of course there are exceptions and sometimes you pull up the slack

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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