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Boots for base camp> c2 on Ama Dablam

Original Post
Christian B · · Big Bear · Joined Jun 2024 · Points: 0

had a question about footwear for the ascent from  base camp to camp 2 of ama dablam.

I was planning on going with a pair of mammut eiger speed for the climb for the approach and the switching over to scarpa phantom 6000’s with the option for  40 below overboots depending on weather

I would like to climb the yellow tower section without jugging the whole way up and had some questions about the climbing portion.

What are the quality of the footholds for the climb. Is it a lot of jamming and smearing a pair of dedicated approach shoes will make that big of a difference?

Is there a reason people don’t bring climbing shoes for this specific section like Shuksan? I’m assuming it’s just so you don’t get stuck in a bad spot if something goes wrong with really minimal foot warmth?

Obviously if weather gets too cold it will be double boots all the way.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,592

I was able to free the yellow tower in double mountaineering boots (La Sportiva G2 SM). The tower is an easy face climb with a short 5.7 crux. You don't need rock shoes, that's why people don't bother bringing them. Most people climb the tower in boots and use the fixed ropes like a solo TR, and if they get stuck just pull on their jumar for a move or 2. The climbing is really easy, even at altitude with a pack on. You could do it in approach shoes, but then you will have your giant heavy boots strapped onto your big pack, I'm not sure which is less enjoyable -- wearing the boots on your feet or on your pack. 

I will say that I felt like it was very contrived to free climb the tower. You will have fixed ropes all around you and all free climbing does is slow everyone else up. After I freed the pitch, it did not feel like much of an accomplishment and I felt rather silly having done it.  Reminded me of folks trying to free the little 5.10 bit on Royal Arches, holding everyone up at the pendulum.

 My 2 cents is not to worry about freeing a 30 foot section of cliff on a climb that takes 2 days and has thousands of feet of fixed rope. For better or worse, most people end up climbing the Regular route on Ama Dablam attached to fixed ropes. If you want to do free ascents in the Himalaya without fixed ropes, its better to choose smaller, less famous peaks that don;t have thousands of feet of fixed rope on them all season.

Christian B · · Big Bear · Joined Jun 2024 · Points: 0

This is the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much I think the move might be to just go in the 6000’s all the way. They’re surprising agile for scrambing and easy climbing

Mike Grainger · · Waterloo, ON Canada · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 636

Same story, back in the day (2006) I free climbed the tower in Koflach double plastics. I can’t remember how much I yarded on the fixed line but it was probably some. Our party of 6 or so was the only one on the route at the time so the time wasted wasn’t really a concern. Agreed, there is no point to approach or climbing shoes above base camp. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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