Actually useful training tools?
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I have $160 "wellness" bucks to spend at Amazon. Besides a hang board, are there any useful tools for building strength off the wall? I have all the gear I want and regular fitness stuff. But any grip trainers actually work for climbing? |
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What are the limits on what you can spend the money on? Could you just buy another pair of climbing shoes? Even if not needed at the moment, just put them in the closet until they are needed 8 months from now. In terms of training devices, a hangboard is the most obvious choice. Next thing is the basic iron implements - dumbbells, barbells, kettlebells. Even if you have access to this stuff at the gym, an at-home weightlifting setup is nice for the convenience. And even if you have an at-home setup, there may be some more accessories you can get, such as some better gym flooring or climate control tools (fans or space heater) for your lifting area. You could also get some supplemental bodyweight fitness items like a nice pair of parrallets, or gymnastic rings, etc. These can all be useful and interesting. A third place to look is recovery/mobility/rehab stuff. I use my Armaid a lot. The Wave Tool is useful also. Foam rollers. Bands. Yoga mat. Yoga blocks. Stretchy bands. If you like electronic gadgets and data geekery, a lot of people are really into using the Tindeq (or the Pitch Sixe Force Board, which is similar). That could be a one-item purchase at about the $160 price point. You'd also want a Tension Block to go with it. Is this geekery actually useful? Maybe, for some people, but it can also be a distraction from the more important fundamentals. Grip trainers are generally not useful for climbing-specific strength training, though a recent (this year) training fad has been to use them for low-intensity forearm aerobic capacity work. Look up "carcing". Jury is still out on whether this is an effective approach or just the latest fad. I'm waiting to see if people are still into it 2 years from now. The ultimate training resource is a home woody / board / spray wall. But that costs a lot more than $160. |
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I don’t know if it’s available on Amazon, but the new Tindeq Progressor is $160. I bought one a couple years ago and have found it to be quite useful as a training tool, since it allows me to track my progress (finger/grip strength) in a novel way and satisfies my virtually unquenchable thirst for data and spreadsheets that have almost zero effect on my climbing. |
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Jason Kim wrote: Good one! Has the Tindeq helped you increase your strength? I suppose you would need something to compare it to. |
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M A wrote: JCM is spot-on with prehab/rehab toys. Get those antagonist muscles strong enough to support your training ambitions. Here are three that I own and use regularly: - $18 Generic Flexbar for regular and reverse Tyler Twists: https://www.amazon.com/Vive-Tennis-Elbow-Therapy-Rehabilitation/dp/B09X8B4CPN - $20 Metolius Gripsaver Plus for warmups, rehab, and finger extensors: https://www.amazon.com/Metolius-GripSaver-Plus-Training-Tool/dp/B0099X1R9M - $80 Rebranded Armaid Rubbit for trigger point on the forearm extensors: https://www.amazon.com/Rolflex-PRO-Leverage-Foam-Roller/dp/B07H14X98W |
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I think the tension block is rad and compliments a hangboard nicely. Both portable and really good for picking up weights from the ground for 2-5 second reps. Comfortable in a ton of different positions and difficulties, including pinching. |
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F r i t z wrote: I have one of those and never really liked the Tyler Twists. But it's found a new use as a mini foam roller for my feet - and it's amazing for that. |
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WF WF51 wrote: It’s helped me increase my strength in the sense that it provides me with some hard numbers to enter into an excel sheet, which is motivating because I’m a data driven person. In all seriousness, it is a cool tool if your approach to training involves a desire to carefully progress the load on your fingers. I have a sordid history with pulley injuries and the Tindeq along with the Emil “no-hangs” has worked really well for me. |
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I love my Tindeq + unlevel edge for the reasons stated above, and because it gives me objective feedback on how warmed up I am. I shot some measurements of different sessions at the point when I was warmed up enough to start limit bouldering, so that became my target range to consider myself fully warm. And then there's "vacation mode" finger training like today ... |
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Jason Kim wrote: Thanks. |