OW Cracks in Black Hills

Howdy,

Partner and I are looking for solid OW cracks in Black Hills, especially Custer. Any recommendations? Any former threads?

Possibly a short one on the third pitch of the Conn Diagonal?

The Nick of Time!

Friend of the Devil 5.8 on the Javelin west side obvious line into bombay chimney to small ledge and fixed pin. Then right and face climb to a crack eventually move right to the bolt on the Gill route and finish that.https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108227860/javelin

Never Mind All That Technique Shit Mongo's Back in Town 5.10+ https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105714471/photographers-peak NE face cracks 12 foot roof.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105714824/quartz-jester

I only ever did Friend of the Devil and I still have a scar on my forearm 20+ years later. I remember a lot of face on Nick of Time. The top of Kamps Crack on Inner Outlet is supposedly 5.9 fists, watched this guy hands all taped screaming down it's like 5.9 up here as he jammed his fist in to a sharks mouth of crystals, if you skip all the fade holds other wise there's one move of 5.8. Cracks in the Needles are good for gear mostly, if you want to actually climb the crack go to the Tower.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106501498/dakota-illinois

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107810730/sex-never-did-this-to-my-hands

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105958740/nick-of-time

Mike Gibson wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106501498/dakota-illinois

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107810730/sex-never-did-this-to-my-hands

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105958740/nick-of-time

The name of the middle of those 3 routes clearly (and very intentionally, of course) convey's the 'message'. To climb off-widths in the S.D. Needles--a suit of full body armor should be on the necessary equipment list. The area makes Vedavwoo OW seem warm and cuddly.

Alan Rubin wrote:

The name of the middle of those 3 routes clearly (and very intentionally, of course) convey's the 'message'. To climb off-widths in the S.D. Needles--a suit of full body armor should be on the necessary equipment list. The area makes Vedavwoo OW seem warm and cuddly.

That's a funny story but it actually climbs fine using the bottom lip as a hand rail. No need to stick your hand in the filthy crack. No offense to Paul Muel rip. 

Unnamed formation East of the Needle's Eye Tunnel; Gill Net 5.7 a 2 stage crack 5-7 inches wide watch for cars. FA John Gill 1960's. It goes at 5.7 because you don't off width the crack as there's a line of crystals to the left. There's likely not much true off width as the course rock would shred you and also lends to good face climbing.

Several moves of solid fist jamming on the second pitch https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105714932/hang-a-right-at-fourth-avenue

if "offwidth" means true offwidth technique, my guess is if that's what you're doing you're doing something wrong, except for maybe a move or two here and there.  There are too many nubbins and crystals for true offwidthing to be the dominant technique.

rgold wrote:

if "offwidth" means true offwidth technique, my guess is if that's what you're doing you're doing something wrong, except for maybe a move or two here and there.  There are too many nubbins and crystals for true offwidthing to be the dominant technique.

Don't judge my kink.  When did pinches gain moral superiority over a good fist jam?  

Mike Gibson wrote:

Don't judge my kink.  When did pinches gain moral superiority over a good fist jam?  

A good fist jam isn't offwidth.  And my understanding of offwidth involves a long section of offwidth moves, for example armbars and heel-toes or hand stacks and knee and calf locks, not the odd single move or two here or there.  As for moral judgment, that phrase was just a bit of linguistic spice.  

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/126525086/balrogs-bane

Mike Gibson wrote:

Don't judge my kink.  When did pinches gain moral superiority over a good fist jam?  

People have turned their fist into hamburger trying to jam cracks in the Needles.

Leslie H they scored finding that line mountainproject.com/route/1… fun jamming and the Needles don't often go together. 

Isolated Recovery (more along the lines of "you can get away without too much off width kinda" like rgold was saying)

Obelisk Roof Direct - a little more legit on the offwidthiness

Crazy horse on Stonehenge in the outlets is by far the most OW pitch I've tried in custer.