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Anyone done little Tahoma?

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Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

How was it and do you think in September I should bring some nuts / cams for protection, just in case.

Dave Schultz · · San Diego, CA · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 5

I climbed it back in Jul 2017.  I copied my notes from those days below:

Day 4 - 11 July 2017

We woke up relatively early, for not having a plan. The mountain was so flawless that we had to come up with another plan for our time (we still had four days and three nights of supplies). We spoke to the rangers again and had a plan to go towards Little Tahoma. We refined our glacier travel technique on our way and found the weakness along the SE ridge at 8800 feet to be in full-on sketchy rock conditions, but was passable. We dropped onto the Whitman and headed up to a bivy location on the east side of the SE ridge at around 9300 feet. We made a luxury open bivy platform for three with a common wind wall.

 

Day 5 - 12 July 2017

 

We had another casual wake up and packed for the day, leaving most of our stuff at the bivy site protected by my tarp. We booted to the top of the Whitman, and accessed the rock and scrambled to the summit. With a nearly windless and flawless summit, we knew we made the right decision to continue the trip instead of just heading back to Paradise. We opted to make one rappel near the lower portion of the rock, and then descended the Whitman, continuing to refine the descent skills, including one big crevasse jump for fun. We re-packed headed back down around to the weakness in the SE ridge. We chopped all six pounds of webbing from the rappel station and removed the single hollow ring and left two cords with two biners. The rappel was easy and soon enough we were back on the Ingraham and decided that we did not want to continue into the night and that chopping some platforms while the snow was soft was the best plan. There is a deep snow drift around 8550 feet, where you are protected from the ice and snow from above as well as from the rockfall from the ridge, but there was the constant sound of rockfall. We each made our own platform and settled in for the night.

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We did not place pro on Little T, but racked and would have placed some on the SE Ridge at 8800 ft, but couldn't really get anything but one piton (IIRC).  We did make a rappel off Little T and to reverse the section on SE Ridge at 8800 ft.

It's a super fun spot, great views, not crowded.  I'd do it again, and very possible that I'd be more experienced and comfy to not even place any pro anywhere.  I think safe rack is 2-3 cams, 2-3 nuts, 2-3 pins - light and veritile, not crippling if you never place anything.

Full TR on cc.com:  

https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/topic/100845-tr-attempted-rainier-circumnav-8-13-july-2017/#comment-1147405

Cheers, have fun,

Dave

Jack Walter · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 0

Thank you! I was planning on bringing a .5, 1 and 2 then some small nuts, micro trax, tibloc yknow standard rescue kit. I use a half rope for glacier but that means I can double up if really necessary. 

Cameron Derwin · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

The rock is pretty bad on little Tahoma and the climbing is very easy (not 5th class). I don't think it makes any sense to bring rock pro.

When I did it I did put up a handline for the last bit to the summit, and just used cordelette around big boulders as the anchors. I didn't want pro elsewhere and don't think it existed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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