Tube Belay Device preferences

Recently I have been looking for a new Tube style Belay device (imma call it an ATC cause I'm lazy) and was wondering why people get the ones they do and the advantages to what yall use. I am currently using the BD ATC but would like to hear opinions from Reverso, Giga-Jul, and Pivot users. Thanks!

ATC is better than the reverso, because it doesn't wear out as quickly. The pivot is better because, well because it's DMM. But the Giga is way better than those old school devices, because it has the assisted mode, which greatly helps with lead belaying and rapping without a dumb third hand. Six years later, I'm somewhat amazed that no one has topped the Giga yet, but I still feel there is a lot of improvement yet to come for assisted tube style belay devices.

I like the Mammut Nordwand. It has steel wear surfaces so it lasts longer and keeps the rope cleaner.

The price, weight, and geometry of the auto block hole are equivalent to the BD.

Still would like to try the DMM Pivot sometime.

However, when I’m belaying two followers I mostly prefer and use a Kong GiGi. Unfortunately not a great device for lead belay but I rappel with it plenty. 

A vote for the DMM Pivot here. Soooo much easier to lower someone in guide mode if you need to. 

It depends on what you want it for.

If you mainly use a grigri then you only really need it for occasional rappelling in which case light is right and the reverso wins. If you do a decent amount of raps the atc is preferable as more durable. If you belay a lot with half's and twins on single pitch the pivot is a great option, though I have heard from a few users that it wears down rather quickly. Remember, the pivot is made for the uk market, why is this important? UK climbing is primarily single pitch, you wouldn't lower someone in guide mode if you're multipitch climbing (where most people around the world like to use halves) so the feature and extra weight may be pointless for you. 

Devices like the edelrid mega and gigajul have issues with their breaking performance that have discussed on here in the past with the TLDR being they aren't great for multipitch where high FF may occur. 

Of the passive assisted breaking tube designs the CT alpine up gives the best braking performance though does weigh the same as a grigri. 

Grivel Master Pro. Going strong since 2013.

that guy named seb wrote:

It depends on what you want it for.

Continuing in this vein and given my propensity for easy multi-trad …

Wild Country Revo for gym - has like lead belay sequence compared to below devices; meets gym requirement for brake-assisted lead belay device.

Black Diamond ATC Guide - threesomes so seconds can climb concurrently.

Plain Black Diamond ATC - super light for twosome on multi-trad.

All that said, brake-assisted devices can definitely have utility outside and in. It just depends.

For times where brake assist is desired - Smart Alpine or Gigajul.  Otherwise, I use a Reverso.

Bill Lawry wrote:

Continuing in this vein and given my propensity for easy multi-trad …

Wild Country Revo for gym - has like lead belay sequence compared to below devices; meets gym requirement for brake-assisted lead belay device.

Black Diamond ATC Guide - threesomes so seconds can climb concurrently.

Plain Black Diamond ATC - super light for twosome on multi-trad.

All that said, brake-assisted devices can definitely have utility outside and in. It just depends.

If you like to do multipitch I would definitely suggest the CT alpine up if you're okay with the weight and the learning curve. Having that high braking force on the rope really does add extra safety in the high fall factor scenarios. Of course as a leader it doesn't have a huge benefit so maybe a reverso for the leader and an alpine up for the belayer, maybe a conversation for you and your partners. 

that guy named seb wrote:

If you like to do multipitch I would definitely suggest the CT alpine up if you're okay with the weight and the learning curve. Having that high braking force on the rope really does add extra safety in the high fall factor scenarios. Of course as a leader it doesn't have a huge benefit so maybe a reverso for the leader and an alpine up for the belayer, maybe a conversation for you and your partners. 

Just as a reference point, the Alpine Up is about 12mm longer than the grigri3. Each weigh 179 grams

I would have said the DMM Pivot.  But now I pretty much use the grigri so I would say reverso, pivot, guide, none it really matters anymore.  

I appreciate the responses guys! As far as what im concerned with, I am really solving for price and durability issues. I do a lot of rope soloing and so im typically rapping off pitches, which puts a lot of wear on my ATC (hence the concern for durability).

The ATC guide is the best when it comes to pulling the rope from above, but it is not fun with skinny ropes. The DMM Pivot and Mammut Nordwand works pretty will most ropes (not as good with fat ropes as the ATC), but still fine with skinny ropes. The DMM Pivot wears out fast, so I`m currently using the Nordwand. I don´t really like the Reverso since it is very grabby on anything but skinny ropes. 

Another vote for the giga jul... worth the tiny extra weight over mega since you can completely disable the assisted mode, steel construction to address your wear concerns... my atc guides have been sitting on shelves since.

DMM Pivot for what Daniel said. Giga Jul for what Rexford said. Like Rexford, I have noticed the wear issues with Reversos.

My Giga goes with me on road trips and flights so I don't have to pack a Grigri and ATC.

I have been using a giga jul for everything but the gym and have no complaints. In the gym I use the jul 2.

ian watson wrote:

I have been using a giga jul for everything but the gym and have no complaints. In the gym I use the jul 2.

Does the Jul 2 feed out rope easier than the Giga? I had the original Jul and never liked it, but I am relatively content with the Giga. Curious about the Jul 2.

that guy named seb wrote:

If you like to do multipitch I would definitely suggest the CT alpine up if you're okay with the weight and the learning curve. Having that high braking force on the rope really does add extra safety in the high fall factor scenarios. Of course as a leader it doesn't have a huge benefit so maybe a reverso for the leader and an alpine up for the belayer, maybe a conversation for you and your partners. 

Good suggestion.  And taken well.  

I usually do discuss with my prospective partners about preferred belay devices.  Usually, the answer is to use what is familiar - what one is most proficient at.

Rexford Nesakwatch wrote:

Does the Jul 2 feed out rope easier than the Giga? I had the original Jul and never liked it, but I am relatively content with the Giga. Curious about the Jul 2.

The jul 2 does better with fat ropes over the giga. It lowers much better in the gym with the extra friction and fat ropes.

I like the Wild Country guide mode version. No other reason other than I just like Wild Country stuff. I also have an assisted breaking device.

Anybody here with an opinion on the Salewa Alpine Tube? In the Euros it appears to be a cheap alternative (20€) to the BD ATC and randos writing shop reviews seem to be quite content with it.