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climbing shoes for complicated feet (big, wide, flat)

Original Post
Tommy Mueller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2024 · Points: 0

Hey everyone!

I've been struggling to find new climbing shoes and was hoping to get some good recommendations here - either for specific models or also just on how to approach the search.
I generally have trouble finding well fitting shoes, climbing shoes seem even more difficult though. I have relatively big feet (EU46/US12), an egyptian/oriental (square for scarpa?) foot shape and very low arches. The combination makes it very hard to find a fitting shoe. I think what I would be looking for is a wide toe box with a wide and rather straight heel but with relatively low volume in the middle foot region.

I currently wear La Sportiva Otaki and climb at a medium/advanced level, exclusively indoor bouldering. My biggest issues with the Otaki are the volume (too high volume in the middle foot/arch region) and the narrow and shaped heel.
I already went to all the climbing stores around where I live but unfortunately most of them only have very few shoes in my size and so it's been nearly impossible to just try on a couple of pairs to find something that works or to even get an idea of the direction I should be looking at.

I found a nice guide for Scarpa shoes ( world.scarpa.com/page/climb…) and looking for the square shaped shoe with the least volume I land in the bottom right box with Quantix and Arpia but neither of them seem very boulder-specific.

Would really love to hear your thoughts! :)

Jared E · · CO-based healthcare traveler · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 356

Evolv Shamans for sport, Evolv Yos Bums for crack is what worked for my wide feet

Shane Davis · · Oklahoma/ Arkansas · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 10

Acopa's might work.  They're pretty good about answering questions/ concerns so perhaps call them up.

Trouble T · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0

I'm size 12 with roman foot and low arch, I also found the Shamans fit well. The Unparallel Upmoccs are my current favorite though.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 341

I would think that given your description that looking for lace-up shoes over velcro may give you a better fit, allowing you to suck up more of the extra space around the mid-foot.  

Evolv Shaman Lace and Scarpa Vapor Lace are both good options with large sizes available.  I wear a size 12 street shoe and wear the Shaman in a 13 and the Vapor in a 45.  

On the velcro side, Butoras may work well.  I have a wide foot, but with roman-greek toes, and found that the Butoras I tried had nice room in the mid-foot but put too much pressure on my third and fourth toes, so they could be a good option for the shape of your foot.

Where's Walden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 231

First thing to do would be to quit climbing indoors.

Christian Donkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 70

I have a similar foot and size. Vapors are a great choice. Yosemite Bums are also very comfortable. I’m selling my 13 YB’s if you’re interested since I own too many different shoes now. I also wear 45 in the Vapor and 13 in YB FWIW.  

The Butt-Shot Whisperer · · Colorful Colorado · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

get custom rock climbing shoes just google it they make them in mexico for a fair price no problemo

Micah Hoover · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1

Unpopular opinion but the Miura VS is worth a look. I have a similar foot shape and these work well for me on hard sport/bouldering. They don't seem like a good fit at first but I've found they stretch out fast and you can reduce heel tension (and arch) by putting a little slice in the heel rand. The more they break in the better it gets, I've got 3 pairs I keep in rotation.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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