climbing shoes for complicated feet (big, wide, flat)
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Hey everyone! I currently wear La Sportiva Otaki and climb at a medium/advanced level, exclusively indoor bouldering. My biggest issues with the Otaki are the volume (too high volume in the middle foot/arch region) and the narrow and shaped heel. I found a nice guide for Scarpa shoes ( world.scarpa.com/page/climb…) and looking for the square shaped shoe with the least volume I land in the bottom right box with Quantix and Arpia but neither of them seem very boulder-specific. Would really love to hear your thoughts! :) |
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Evolv Shamans for sport, Evolv Yos Bums for crack is what worked for my wide feet |
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Acopa's might work. They're pretty good about answering questions/ concerns so perhaps call them up. |
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I'm size 12 with roman foot and low arch, I also found the Shamans fit well. The Unparallel Upmoccs are my current favorite though. |
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I would think that given your description that looking for lace-up shoes over velcro may give you a better fit, allowing you to suck up more of the extra space around the mid-foot. Evolv Shaman Lace and Scarpa Vapor Lace are both good options with large sizes available. I wear a size 12 street shoe and wear the Shaman in a 13 and the Vapor in a 45. On the velcro side, Butoras may work well. I have a wide foot, but with roman-greek toes, and found that the Butoras I tried had nice room in the mid-foot but put too much pressure on my third and fourth toes, so they could be a good option for the shape of your foot. |
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First thing to do would be to quit climbing indoors. |
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I have a similar foot and size. Vapors are a great choice. Yosemite Bums are also very comfortable. I’m selling my 13 YB’s if you’re interested since I own too many different shoes now. I also wear 45 in the Vapor and 13 in YB FWIW. |
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get custom rock climbing shoes just google it they make them in mexico for a fair price no problemo |
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Unpopular opinion but the Miura VS is worth a look. I have a similar foot shape and these work well for me on hard sport/bouldering. They don't seem like a good fit at first but I've found they stretch out fast and you can reduce heel tension (and arch) by putting a little slice in the heel rand. The more they break in the better it gets, I've got 3 pairs I keep in rotation. |