1/2” x 3-3/4” SS wedge bolts in “hard” sandstone?

There’s a newish sandstone crag near me being developed by just a few people. They are primarily using 1/2” x 3-3/4” SS wedge bolts. I’m not super knowledgeable about bolting, but my understanding is that wedge bolts are not usually recommended for sandstone. They say this sandstone is reasonably “hard” as far as sandstone goes. 

For the sake of argument let’s assume their bolting technique is near-perfect and they are placing bolts in ideal locations in the rock (solid/dense regions, not near edges/cracks, etc) - is this a reasonable bolt to use? Would you climb them?

What type of sandstone are we talking?? Glorified dried mud of the south west towers or bullet sandstone of something like the New?

I’ve been using wedgies in some extremely hard Dakota sandstone without issue. The wedge bolt sleeve won’t engage if the stone is too soft.

Closer to the New, I think- though I haven’t actually been to the crag yet to check it out. Also in Appalachia 

M D wrote:

Closer to the New, I think- though I haven’t actually been to the crag yet to check it out. Also in Appalachia 

NRG  stone is more like quartzite than the typical sandstone most people are thinking of. Breaks is also hard sandstone as is Hidden Valley in Va. Some TN sandstone is also very hard. Stainless wedge bolts are fine in those locations in my opinion. There are softer bits though in some locations.

Big South Fork and the RRG are another matter. I would not use wedges there.

timothy fisher wrote:

NRG  stone is more like quartzite than the typical sandstone most people are thinking of. Breaks is also hard sandstone as is Hidden Valley in Va. Some TN sandstone is also very hard. Stainless wedge bolts are fine in those locations in my opinion. There are softer bits though in some locations.

Big South Fork and the RRG are another matter. I would not use wedges there.

Yes, I believe this rock is closer to quartzite. That’s reassuring, thank you

I use 1/2” x 4.25” wedge bolts in hard sandstone.  The compressive strength of this particular sandstone formation is equal to or greater than that of most basalt, and five fold stronger than Navajo sandstone, for comparison. All sandstone is not created equal. 

What Timothy Fischer said! Wedges are crap in the Red, but bomber in the New, and a lot of the harder TN sandstone. If the crags are going to see a lot of traffic it's worth just starting with glue-ins, but for more obscure stuff the wedges ought to be fine on really hard sandstone.