Middle Teton ice + Irene's 8/3-4? (have permit)

I'm trying to climb ice for 12 consecutive calendar months. So far i have 11. The northwest ice couloir of middle teton or middle teton glacier seems like a good way to tick off #12, August. 

I managed to nab a Moraine bivy permit for the night of Saturday 8/3. With this permit, I think it would be feasible and awesome to try to get Irene's arete in the same trip:

• Thu 8/1 evening I'll drive up (can carpool if you're coming from CO) 
• Fri 8/2: pick up permit during business hours (required); work remote
• Sat 8/3: Hike in, drop overnight gear at Moraine, climb middle teton
• Sun 8/4: hike down to Caves area where Irene's starts, climb, continue hiking out

Putting out feelers to connect with someone to watch conditions & weather, but make the final decision in the week of 7/29. I asked around and got some promising conditions updates, but that could still change. Text 650-996-5364 if interested!

Nice plan, and best of luck!

I’ve climbed NWC a few times, and IMHO has been a great early summer snow climb with a short icy crux at the bottom (June-ish?), or a very fickle mostly wet-rock with some rattly scabs of ice scattered for a couple hundred feet after that (July/Aug). Then sometimes when the cold nights set in again it can get very nice and maybe a bit sporty as summer blends into fall. Just saying, I think it’s the kind of route that favors locals who can tag it when it’s at its best, and makes it a risky travel destination.

If climbing ice in Aug is your only motivation, you might get more bang for your buck taking a good look at the Glacier Route. Lower angle, yes, but way more mileage in your crampons. Zero routefinding. You see anll of it from the base, no surprises .And most likely you could leave your rope and rack in camp and cruise it as a much shorter day. Mountain axe and a second tool.
Have a great trip, whatever you do!

Yeah honestly worst case I'll solo the middle teton glacier route c2c sometime in august. 

Just putting out feelers to see if someone would be down & capable for tagging on Irene's as well which requires a permit to get 2 routes done in 2 days. 

Have a good time. Irene’s is really a gem. If you’re going up there with a rock partner and all the kit for Irene’s, it’s so so worth it to try and do Open Book while you’re up there! Just saying…

[BUMP] before I cancel the permit. This weekend is hot so probably the NW ice couloir won't be in, but middle teton glacier route I suppose is a glacier so it should be fine.. 

I don’t ice climb but am looking for climbing partners 8/2-8/4. 

Interested in Irene’s. Could get stoked on anything less than 5.12. Only ever struggled on 5.11 on gear in the creek.