Via ferrata lanyard

I'm a total beginner when it comes to via ferrata, but this holiday I plan to do some via Ferrata's with my girlfriend.

I do know how to sport climb and climbed up to 5.11d outdoors, so I'm comfortable with the steep terrain and general safety techniques on the rock.

In terms of lanyards, I'm not sure what to pick... There are so many options! Swivel, no swivel, friction plate, screamer, different opening carabiners, carabiners with steel inserts... Its making me spin a little bit.

I have filtered it down to 3 options, and I would like to hear your thoughts and especially if you have experience with one of them.

*Edelrid cable kit 6.0 (no swivel)

+Lightweight ~480 grams

+Comfortable carabiners that have the widest opening

+About ~€100 (on sale currently at my location)

+Small screamer which is close to the body

-no swivel

*Skylotec skyriser (I think the brand is currently called climbing technology) 

+€70 (on sale currently at my location) 

+Big openings and comfy carabiners

+Steel inserts on carabiners to minimize wear

-heavy with more than 600 grams

*Edelrid cable comfort tri

+3 axis swivel to make sure your lanyards never tangle (as far as I read, the camp gyro rewind pro and this one are the ones that really work to keep the lanyards untangled)

+Same plusses as the edelrid cable kit 6.0

- expensive at €145

- not sure about the swivel, it feels like the weakest point in the system to me (what if you fall and the swivel hits the rock in a weird angle?)

Hope to hear your thoughts and especially if you have experience with one or more of the kits!

I have the Edelrid cable comfort tri. I think you are overthinking it. Swivel is really nice. Screamer is nice. 

Doesn't really matter - just don't fall. 

grug g wrote:

I have the Edelrid cable comfort tri. I think you are overthinking it. Swivel is really nice. Screamer is nice. 

Doesn't really matter - just don't fall. 

Thanks for your reply!

Did you ever try via Ferrata kits without a swivel? If so, how was that compared to the comfort of the swivel?

Yes I am probably overthinking it.. I just have a fear of buying gear I will regret after the first use. And since I have never done via Ferrata I'm not confident that I make the right decision from the get go.

Without a swivel the lanyards can get a bit twisted between the 2 leashes but its not a huge deal. Most VF's there are sections of hiking between the cables where you can sort out the leashes. 

I would not call the twisting a significant concern. 

Hi! I'd go with the skylotec on sale, I've used it, it's a nice set and swivel isn't necessary at all in my opinion.

A rest sling is smart, especially on the cable bridges where, if for some reason you'd come off, the sling will keep you from hanging so low that it'd be difficult to get back up.

I used a double length nylon sling. Attached with a bowline instead of a girth hitch makes it easy to adjust the length to within hand's reach.

The thing I'd look for in a VF set is carabiners that unlock with a palm press, rather than a twist lock because they're easier to operate for me. And not too long attachment loop, they're easier to get on and off the harness but has a tendency to hit you in the nuts while walking..

Some Via Ferratas have a single cable over a gap or zip line, you need a steel pulley for those, do not pull yourself hand over hand hanging from an aluminum carabiner, they can wear through faster than you think like that.

Have fun! 

I have been using this Petzl kit. It works fine as it is simple. Which is my preference, keep it simple. Especially as someone who is a competent rock climber. I have done what are considered some hard ferratas routes and did not feel I need more than a simple set up. I like that the carabiners on the Petzl kit are climbing carabiners which I can open and close with muscle memory using just my thumb.  I have yet to use the rest loop. As for the lanyards getting twisted, that happens but one learns to manage it between clips. At some point one just stops, sorts it out, then goes on. It is not any big deal.

Mike J wrote:

Hi! I'd go with the skylotec on sale, I've used it, it's a nice set and swivel isn't necessary at all in my opinion.

A rest sling is smart, especially on the cable bridges where, if for some reason you'd come off, the sling will keep you from hanging so low that it'd be difficult to get back up.

I used a double length nylon sling. Attached with a bowline instead of a girth hitch makes it easy to adjust the length to within hand's reach.

The thing I'd look for in a VF set is carabiners that unlock with a palm press, rather than a twist lock because they're easier to operate for me. And not too long attachment loop, they're easier to get on and off the harness but has a tendency to hit you in the nuts while walking..

Some Via Ferratas have a single cable over a gap or zip line, you need a steel pulley for those, do not pull yourself hand over hand hanging from an aluminum carabiner, they can wear through faster than you think like that.

Have fun! 

Thank you for the thorough reply! 

I've got some slings I can grab to use as a rest sling, thanks for the tip! 

I'm wondering, do I attach the resting sling to a loop on the screamer, or on my harness' belay loop?

Niek L wrote:

I'm wondering, do I attach the resting sling to a loop on the screamer, or on my harness' belay loop?

You can do either. I have a completely separate sling that I girth hitch to my harness belay loop. It has locking carabiner on it. I prefer that as it requires one carabiner. To use the one on the lanyard requires two.

Another vote here for no swivel.

Niek L wrote:

Thank you for the thorough reply! 

I've got some slings I can grab to use as a rest sling, thanks for the tip! 

I'm wondering, do I attach the resting sling to a loop on the screamer, or on my harness' belay loop?

Put it on your harness, if you have it on the shock absorber and then store it's end carabiner on your harness the screamer won't be able to do it's job because it'll stop at the length of the sling. If that makes sense?

The rest sling is also key when you wanna lean out and take photos or to put the pulley on for those cable crossings.

Mike J wrote:

Put it on your harness, if you have it on the shock absorber and then store it's end carabiner on your harness the screamer won't be able to do it's job because it'll stop at the length of the sling. If that makes sense?

The rest sling is also key when you wanna lean out and take photos or to put the pulley on for those cable crossings.

Interesting!

I think the gear loop from the harness will break, which will make sure the screamer can still function.
Although I can imagine that the function of the screamer will be slightly impacted (and maybe the harness as well).

Thanks for the tip!