Adjustable Daisies - Am I going to die?

All you folk that use Adjustable Daisies for walling. How are you tethering into the anchor at the end of the pitch or while faffing around getting ready to go to bed on a ledge/sleeping?

I'm playing around with these Light Weight Cambuckle Adjustable Daisies from Skots. There's also the Yates Adjustable Daisy and Metolius Easy Daisy that seem very similar. 

While leading, let's say. I take a fall. Sounds like these daisies are not technically designed/rated to catch you (that's what your rope is for), but I'm guessing that they'll most often than not give you hard catch anyways and not snap. 

At the anchor, will I die if I use these for attaching the anchor and walking around on a ledge, passing knots as I walk back and forth from the designated restroom area (if I have that luxury on a bigger ledge)? 

Is this why many climbers opt for the Petzl Connect Adjusts with replaced dynamic rope of a smaller diameter than the stock? 

I know this should be self evident, but it's not to me. 

You’re not gonna die, probably. I took a fall straight onto a petzl evolve and lived; it hurt but I was fine. I switched off the toothed buckle Yates style adjustable because they’re just so faffy with twisting, they also don’t last as long. They’re smooth as hell though. When I did use them I didn’t think twice about using them to walk around the ledge with, not taking a whip on them there really.

EDIT: with toothed buckles I’d imagine many people have taken a fall onto them and lived to tell the tale. They might get torn up a bit but that webbing is pretty thick/durable.

I swapped my petzl adjust with static 5.9 power cord and it’s pretty sweet. 10/10 trust being attached at the anchor with em. You can lower out with them while tensioned and are eliminating the use of an alfifi for me because of how smooth they are.

Quinn will probably chime in. He swapped his with static 8mm I believe and it seems to work just as well. People swap out to cord so they’re easier to extend mostly. Haven’t met someone who swapped just to have dynamic properties.

I usually just clove myself on a locker at the end of a pitch. When I was on the Washington Column I just clipped my Metolius daisies to the fixed lines to walk around on the P1 ledge and Dinner Ledge. 

Skots website states that his adjustable daisies were tested to failure at around 10Kn (approx 2000lbs).  I can’t imagine you would ever hit that amount of force just hanging/sleeping on a ledge and having an accidental fall. Maybe if you were climbing above the ledge with the daisies as your only attachment point, but they aren’t that long so you’re not climbing very high above the anchor

Just be aware of how strong [or weak] your adjustables are - whichever you are using.  The Metolius are not very strong at all, and I would not recommend them for any purpose whatsoever.  The Yates style with the buckle are strong enough, and have done me well for 80 or so big wall ascents. Like any toothed cam, they're good for around 5kN when new.  Just don't take any Factor 2 falls onto them - or any daisy.  In fact, ANY daisy chain fall is 100% pilot error, so don't do it - ever. Instead, learn how to aid climb properly. 

We're all going to die. . . 

Peter Zabrok wrote:

Just be aware of how strong [or weak] your adjustables are - whichever you are using.  The Metolius are not very strong at all, and I would not recommend them for any purpose whatsoever.  The Yates style with the buckle are strong enough, and have done me well for 80 or so big wall ascents. Like any toothed cam, they're good for around 5kN when new.  Just don't take any Factor 2 falls onto them - or any daisy.  In fact, ANY daisy chain fall is 100% pilot error, so don't do it - ever. Instead, learn how to aid climb properly. 

I'm specifically asking for tying in on ledges and anchors, not for the actual aid leading or following. The Skots adjustables came with a disclaimer of 'do not use for PAS' but not sure if that's for legal reasons or a true 'you really really shouldn't be using these for that use case'. 

I don't use a full-strength PAS when climbing walls, only my Yates adjustables.  I often have a "third arm" meaning a third adjustable, so if I'm crawling around the anchor unroped - which happens often - I can be clipped into two places.  I am highly cognizant of not taking a factor 2 fall onto my daisies - ever - but especially when unroped. 

When I get to the anchor I pull up about 10-15’ of rope and clove into a bolt as a tether or leash.  Then fix the rope to the other anchor points.  

It should be noted that no webbing adjustable daisies are fall rated.  A kn rating on these is calculated when brand new with a controlled pull.  
Use and condition of the webbing will have a varied reduction in the strength. Webbing daisies should only be used as body positioning. Your rope is your fall protection.
I specifically mention ‘do not use as PAS’ because you should never use a webbing daisy as fall protection.  It’s not designed for that use.  Don’t do it.  

Recommend looking at the Petzyl adjustabl daisies.. a little more substantial and beefy than those christmas tree on the roof of the car toothy webbing jobs. Plus you can biner right into whatever anchor you are trying to connect to.

https://www.petzl.com/US/EN/Sport/Lanyards/CONNECT-ADJUST 

The Petzl Connect-Adjust is "quite strong", but rather craftily, there was no rating specified on the Petzl website as to their actual strength.  There have been debates around here about using such a device as an adjustable daisy during upward progression, but I think they are kind of "stiff" to operate[?]  I've never used one.  My Yates daisies work perfectly [for me]. 

All daisies are not meant for any type of dynamic fall. The Petzl connect is in this category as well. They fail just like any other piece. It is as any daisy chain called a “positioning piece”. Using them to walk around on the portaledge or big ledge technically could cause a dynamic force that “could” break them. Will it? Prob not. Is it going to tickle? Oh yeah for sure. Death is guaranteed but not in this situation.

I’ve always been an advocate to just use the rope. I’d prefer to whip on 10 ft of lead line then 1 foot static. I’m in the Skot category, I pull up 10 ft or so of leadline, then use my my position lanyard to move about the anchor. I only need one, and I’m not worried about “bumping it around” from spot to spot because I’m tied into the main line. Also I can toss my gri gri onto the rope to move lower to get shit out of the bags, make up the ledge, or even getting into the ledge or under it to take a shit.

(https://youtu.be/vIvZyKdF9fs?si=yQe5qATvc1IFOJZb)

Drop test video of Skot's webbing/buckle style daisy, plus the petzl evolve adjust, plus some other ones too.

Very good post by Kurt.