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October Greece climbing

Original Post
Rylee Bundesmann · · Pinedale, WY · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 10

My partner and I are spending the month of October climbing in Greece. We are planning to go to Kalymnos, Meteora, Kyparissi, and Leonido. Is it worth it to bring trad gear for Meteora? Seems like it would be the only place we would use it. We are also wondering how easy it will be to get to crags without a car in Kyparissi and Leonido. Do we need to rent a car/motorbike, and if so, should we do so from Athens or not? Sounds like Meteora and Kalymnos will be plenty walkable. Lastly, would it be worth it to get an 80m rope or is 70m enough? Any other recommendations or advice?

Thanks in advance!

Jonathan Lagoe · · Boulder · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I’d rent a car from Athens for sure. Save you loads of hassle. In the region of $11-12 a day from the airport a couple of years ago. 80m rope will open up lots of routes so highly recommended.

Tim Wolfe · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 3,540

Agree on the Athens car. Cheap and needed to access some of shady crags. 80 meter rope allows you to do any route. 70 is good for most but might limit you from a few. Rent a scooter in Kalymnos so you can go everywhere and not just above town. 

Charles Yang · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 4,488

You definitely need a car for Kyparissi and Leonidio. If you don't have a car, you'll be severely limited in your crag selection.

You can get away with a 70m in Kyparissi. But for Leonidio and Kalymnos, an 80m is required for some of the best routes there!

John Clark · · Board, Garage, House · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

I’d even get a 90-100m if you climb 12s in leonidio

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

IMO taking trad gear to Europe adds a ton of hassle and weight. If your trip is a climbing vacation and exploring Europe, then the sport and VF options are limitless and you just don't need trad gear. (Don't sleep on the VF's - they are awesome!)

 Furthermore in the future I don't think I will take a rope with me. I would buy one over there and then donate it or give it to other climbers when I leave. My trips are usually coupled with some touristy stuff after climbing and dragging the rope around in luggage is a pain (and limits the souvenirs/wines you can bring home!). Traveling as light as possible is always the way to go. 

However, if you have a specific big objective in mind (for example something on Tre Cime or in Chamonix) then its worth it to bring your trad gear.

Having a car is expensive but always worth it! You want to spend time climbing, not walking or waiting on and figuring out public transport.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 21

 Seem like the limiting factor for climbing a lot of routes in Meteora was the lack of two ropes. There are a lot of routes that require some gear  but you can definitely climb there without trad gear. 

 If you're driving from Meteora to Leonidio you have to stop at the Varasova crag in Kryoneri  near Patras.  

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/greece/varasova

Vertical life has a app guide.

Incredible spot to climb. The seafood  Restaurant near the water was the best seafood we had in Greece and the owners son is a climber who has put up a bunch of routes there. Very quiet community

Joyful Jane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Speaking of leionido, I'll be going there in November-  any recs on cool climbs in leioinido?  

John Clark · · Board, Garage, House · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0
Joyful Jane wrote:

Speaking of leionido, I'll be going there in November-  any recs on cool climbs in leioinido?  

I didn’t climb anything that was bad in 2 weeks there

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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