VLT for Mountaineering Goggles

Hey y'all!

I'm doing a late September climb of Baker and Mt Rainier this year, and then planning to do a winter climb of Mt Washington in NH as well. I've heard that ski goggles are good thing to have in your pack (in addition to glacier glasses) for those peaks because of the cold and high wind - but I'm waffling back and forth on what VLT to use.

I'm seeing that guiding gear lists recommend no more than 30% VLT for goggles, but then I'm also hearing that you're more likely to be pulling out your goggles in stormy, whiteout conditions, so you want essentially a clear or like 90% goggle - ie, if it's bright and sunny, just use your <10% VLT glacier glasses instead.

I know goggles exist with adapative photochromic lenses, but I'm seeing all those goggles are like $150+, which I feel like is too much for a "maybe" piece of gear. When I'm looking at the <$100 range, they tend to have a single lens, hence my indecision.

Thanks for any advice!

I'd recommend photochromatic lenses for both glasses and goggles. It's pricier, but I snagged a pair of Bolle Ascender glasses and am 100% sold on photochromatic while climbing. Glasses stay on the entire day whether its cloudy and in the shade or in direct reflected light off snow.

I haven't used my photochromatic goggles for specific mountaineering objectives like Baker and Rainier, but in-bound and out-bound ski days, photochromatic is the way. Once you try it, you'll never go back.

Most photochromatic lenses will adjust from CAT 2-4 and cover what you'd need.

Glasses are "cheap", eyeballs aren't. Splurge on eye wear.

Glade adapt 2 goggles are on sale for $97. I don't think it matters that much for standard walk up/down Rainier. You're moving slow enough that you don't need the acuity like while skiing. You can definitely run into very windy conditions with full sun though (leading to a lenticular cloud at the summit).

That's a good find - I'm also seeing that Glade offers a MTB version of the Adapt 2, which has a lot more ventilation, but otherwise has the same lens and specs. Given that mountaineering tends to be more high-output than skiing, I can imagine that being a good thing - what are your thoughts on that? They are single paned lenses, but I think the ventaliation should prevent fogging, right?

I am not sure mountaineering on a glacier is that much more high output than skiing. I think you'd be fine with either. More ventilation also means colder. If it's really that warm, wear glacier glasses. Tons of people wear all sorts of eyewear on the mountain and I met a guy who did rainier in ray-bans. You don't need a quiver of eyewear, though there's always that guy on MP who swears that you do.

The standard thing in ski touring is to wear sunglasses on the way up when you're hot and sweating, goggles on the way down.

FWIW, I have the Julbo Explorers and really like them overall. I really like the 2-4 reactive ability to transition over the course of the day or during partly cloudy conditions. I find that I can't wear them 'pushed all the way in' (i.e. very slightly off the bridge of my nose) otherwise they start to fog up during exertion. This is slightly annoying, but manageable. Otherwise the adjustability of fit is nice and find them comfortable. I have very fair skin so often use a NozKon for nose protection. I think that the glasses themselves (+ the NozKon) is a pretty goofy look, but we don't care about fashion. I would also check out the Julbo Ultimate Protection if you're into that look; I believe those are well liked but haven't checked them out in person. Otherwise, I've used cheap full wrap glasses (e.g. Tifosi) and those work well.

I've spent my fair chunk of time on Baker in all conditions.  Last summer I was climbing in a basic pair of Smith Boomtown sunglasses which have been replaced with Smith Pursuits.  Unless I'm skiing/snowboarding in powder I rarely put the goggles on for Baker anymore.  If I was spending more time at higher elevation I might be a bit pickier about my glasses but for 3-4 days at a time on Baker I'm happy with what I have.  If I were climbing Rainier or Baker in winter conditions (Denali prep) then I'd have goggles as part of my kit but to me that's more about adding some warmth during especially cold and stormy conditions.

I prioritize full coverage with sunglasses to avoid too much light leaking around the edges.