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Big walls in squamish

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Diego Arnold · · Center of The Universe · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

What’s big wall climbing like in Squamish?

Easiest big wall on the Chief?

Olly Tippett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0

I think it's good, though the routes are definitely a lot less traveled than Yosemite. I'd say to avoid aiding U-Wall since it's boring aid and more of a free route but rather start on Cannabis Wall or Uncle Bens (which were my first two walls). Uncle Bens is a really really good route and probably the easiest one you might want to spend the night on.

You can get a pdf of the guidebook here : vdiffclimbing.gumroad.com/l…

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0
Diego Arnold wrote:

What’s big wall climbing like in Squamish?

Easiest big wall on the Chief?

I'm in that area and need a practice partner so if you need one lmk

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0
Olly Tippett wrote:

I think it's good, though the routes are definitely a lot less traveled than Yosemite. I'd say to avoid aiding U-Wall since it's boring aid and more of a free route but rather start on Cannabis Wall or Uncle Bens (which were my first two walls). Uncle Bens is a really really good route and probably the easiest one you might want to spend the night on.

You can get a pdf of the guidebook 

If you live there I need a practice partner so if you need one lmk

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0



start on Cannabis Wall or Uncle Bens (which were my first two walls). Uncle Bens is a really really good route and probably the easiest one you might want to spend the night on.

You can get a pdf of the guidebook here : vdiffclimbing.gumroad.com/l…

Warning.  If you climb these two walls like Ollie did you will be expected to completely crush ElCap the following season…. Multiple A4 solos will be mandatory.  
Ollie is the best in the game right now.  

Cameron J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 50

Anyone have input on how Uncle Ben’s (or cannabis/university wall) would compare to some of the index stuff like green drag-on or town crier aside from the fact that the Squamish rotes are longer?

I led every pitch of green drag-on and found it to be relatively straightforward and not that hard to aid but I haven’t done a lot of other aid. The “C3” crux has been bolt laddered by the free attempt so I think that made the route a bit more tame.

E: I have the Squamish book

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0
Cameron J wrote:

Anyone have input on how Uncle Ben’s (or cannabis/university wall) would compare to some of the index stuff like green drag-on or town crier aside from the fact that the Squamish rotes are longer?

I led every pitch of green drag-on and found it to be relatively straightforward and not that hard to aid but I haven’t done a lot of other aid. The “C3” crux has been bolt laddered by the free attempt so I think that made the route a bit more tame.

E: I have the Squamish book

When you say Squamish book do you mean the vdiff aid book or the guidebook for rock climbs?

Cameron J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 50
RWPT wrote:

When you say Squamish book do you mean the vdiff aid book or the guidebook for rock climbs?

The aid book

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0
Cameron J wrote:

The aid book

Pm'd

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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