Removable bolts

Anyone ever see a removable anchor in 3/8”? Using 3/8” wedge bolts and would love to have a few removable anchors in the same size.  Also was pretty sure that I saw 1/2”(climbtech) but can only find 3/4” and 1” online. Trying to only carry one size drill bit but if I must carry two would love to find the 1/2” size removable anchors.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Titen-HD-3-8-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Heavy-Duty-Screw-Anchor-THD37300HF1/300690800

3/8 concrete screws may be your best bet. Very easy to remove and the zinc plated ones have had good success with being reused. Couldn’t 100% recommend replacing a screw with a 3/8 wedge without upsizing the hole? I do remember this being discussed at some point here…

Nathan P wrote:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Titen-HD-3-8-in-x-3-in-Zinc-Plated-Heavy-Duty-Screw-Anchor-THD37300HF1/300690800

3/8 concrete screws may be your best bet. Very easy to remove and the zinc plated ones have had good success with being reused. Couldn’t 100% recommend replacing a screw with a 3/8 wedge without upsizing the hole? I do remember this being discussed at some point here…

Yeah, I would not recommend, since the threads will cut into the rock and increase the inner hole size/ weaken it. unless the wedge bolts are significantly longer than the concrete screws (like 3/8x2.5" concrete screw being replaced with 3/8"x5" wedge bolt) so that the clip of the wedge bolt is well past the cut threads

Okay cool thanks and I do believe I did see this addressed.  Was hoping maybe someone had put out a 3/8” removable anchor but the screws would be a decent alternative.  Most likely wouldn’t be reusing the hole and would patch right after.  So basically just using for exploratory and working bolt applications.
I guess I just want one of those removable anchors as they are really neat!

The screws are the ticket you’re looking for. Carry an impact driver with you and they are super quick to install and take out. 1/4 inch impact works great. 3/8 screws take 1/2 hangers though so keep that in mind

Of you don't want to lug an impact around, the petzl Coeur pulse removables are amazing. Way way better than the climb tech ones. Kinda spendy though. Come in a 8mm and 12 mm version

The coeur pulse is a really nice option for developing, but at the price, Titen HDs are a really good cheaper alternative.  Kevin from climb Taiwan has also been posting similar bolt designs to the coeur in different sizes, but I don't know how to get them in the U.S. (I'm hoping they show up on the HowNot2 store!)

If the rock isn't super hard, you might be able to install Titen HDs without an impact driver.  I bolt in soft limestone and never have to use an impact driver.  but the softer the rock, the deeper the bolt you want (I use 3/8" x 5 or 6", as 4" or less often strips out the rock).

On one occasion I installed a 1/2" x 4" titen in granite without an impact wrench but I really had to lean my body weight into it to get the first couple threads to catch.

Also you don't necessarily have to use a 1/2" hanger with 3/8" concrete screws.  The Raumer 10mm hangers pair nicely with 3/8" titens, and so do the newer Fixe conical 3/8" hangers.

Thanks everyone and all good stuff!  I believe the 8mm pulse will be a good option. I only have to carry an extra small bit and also I could reuse the hole after. Shouldn’t be any issue making the 8mm hole bigger to accept the 3/8 wedge bolt.  Yes to hoping that maybe some other sizes of the coeur show up in the HowNot2 store! Really liking that Lappas stock they are carrying also!

JChepes wrote:

Anyone ever see a removable anchor in 3/8”? Using 3/8” wedge bolts and would love to have a few removable anchors in the same size.  Also was pretty sure that I saw 1/2”(climbtech) but can only find 3/4” and 1” online. Trying to only carry one size drill bit but if I must carry two would love to find the 1/2” size removable anchors.

Check this out. I've fashioned some of these and they work very well. 3/8s too.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122243629/diy-removable-sleeve-bolts-for-development-not-as-permanent-hardware

Petzl says a 5/16 bit is cool for the 8mm bolts - I’ve used it before and it works great and upsizes great to 3/8 as well

Henry Robinson wrote:

Check this out. I've fashioned some of these and they work very well. 3/8s too.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/122243629/diy-removable-sleeve-bolts-for-development-not-as-permanent-hardware

I've done this, too. They're still difficult to remove, unless you place them in an oversized hole, then they're easy to remove but... Maybe that's not a good thing.

https://youtu.be/84QD-3eUGvI?si=KNs-jW3HVmTFrWQH

I own two 3/8 inch removable bolts.  They were a gift to me from the Skinner estate in 2006 when Todd passed.  He had obtained 10-12 of them sometime in the late nineties from China or somewhere.  Several of us route developers in Lander have a couple.  I have never seen any other examples.  They get stuck pretty easily and I know of 2 of them on routes in the Lander foothills that have not been able to be removed.  PM me and I'll tell you where they are.

Tom Rangitsch wrote:

I own two 3/8 inch removable bolts.  They were a gift to me from the Skinner estate in 2006 when Todd passed.  He had obtained 10-12 of them sometime in the late nineties from China or somewhere.  Several of us route developers in Lander have a couple.  I have never seen any other examples.  They get stuck pretty easily and I know of 2 of them on routes in the Lander foothills that have not been able to be removed.  PM me and I'll tell you where they are.

Wow pretty cool and I knew they were out there somewhere! What a great gift from the Skinner estate.  It’s been 2 decades since I’ve been to Wyoming so maybe it’s time to return and take the wife on an adventure/recovery mission!

The Petzl Pulse is actually cheaper than the other removable anchors and it does sound that it is easier to remove. I feel that a lot of reviews of the climb tech ones mention it’s pretty common to get stuck.  

The other huge benefit of the petzls is they don't get fucked up when you load them. I had a couple of The climbtech ones and they get bent up and destroyed if you load them in shear. If you load them in tention they do okay but as mentioned above they are a pita to remove.

So I personally haven’t found what’s currently available on the market to fit what I need & wanna pay for in my route development. This ranges from removable anchors to smaller temp bolts (for tinkering with placements & whatnot). 

What’s out there is either expensive, made from mixed materials & doesn’t fare as well in the elements if left up, or not in the diameters I need. Also not all manufacturers find it financially lucrative to make niche hardware for the small population of route developers. 

I also don’t have much use for concrete screws because the quartz sandstone we develop in tears us the threads + they require a 2nd power tool. 

So first I basically made my own Fixe Triplex- style removable in ½” for use with Twist Bolts. But now I’m using smaller 5/16” stuff (8mm) as directionals & scoping bolt placements (smaller hole too).

Lately, there’s been a lot more options in China for removable bolts that rope access techs, AC tech, etc have been needing— there’s tons of buildings there. 

So lately we’ve been testing the removables made there. Their style will either fall under a copy-cat of the Petzl Coeur Pulse (where the screw knob part is patented), or a Fixe-Triplex sleeve w/ a flange at the top that you tighten with an eye nut/bolt. 

We’ve tested a majority of the Coeur Pulse-style ones that are made in 8mm, 10mm, & 12mm diameters, including the Camnal brand. One guy that gets the FeiHua brand removables made is an IRATA-certified tech that works on an oil rig. He said they can make any size & length (like ⅜”, that’s 9.5mm), MOQ is 100 pieces. They’re definitely not Petzl Coeur Pulse build-quality, but are a ⅓ of the price and strong enough. 

The other manufacturers I’m sure have their own MOQ and can make different diameters as well. 

I’ve been tinkering & testing other DIY designs as well. Definitely good enough for their intended purpose so far. But there are still ways to improve on their already good-enough strength. 

Kevin Maliczak wrote:

So I personally haven’t found what’s currently available on the market to fit what I need & wanna pay for in my route development. This ranges from removable anchors to smaller temp bolts (for tinkering with placements & whatnot). 

What’s out there is either expensive, made from mixed materials & doesn’t fare as well in the elements if left up, or not in the diameters I need. Also not all manufacturers find it financially lucrative to make niche hardware for the small population of route developers. 

I also don’t have much use for concrete screws because the quartz sandstone we develop in tears us the threads + they require a 2nd power tool. 

So first I basically made my own Fixe Triplex- style removable in ½” for use with Twist Bolts. But now I’m using smaller 5/16” stuff (8mm) as directionals & scoping bolt placements (smaller hole too).

Lately, there’s been a lot more options in China for removable bolts that rope access techs, AC tech, etc have been needing— there’s tons of buildings there. 

So lately we’ve been testing the removables made there. Their style will either fall under a copy-cat of the Petzl Coeur Pulse (where the screw knob part is patented), or a Fixe-Triplex sleeve w/ a flange at the top that you tighten with an eye nut/bolt. 

We’ve tested a majority of the Coeur Pulse-style ones that are made in 8mm, 10mm, & 12mm diameters, including the Camnal brand. One guy that gets the FeiHua brand removables made is an IRATA-certified tech that works on an oil rig. He said they can make any size & length (like ⅜”, that’s 9.5mm), MOQ is 100 pieces. They’re definitely not Petzl Coeur Pulse build-quality, but are a ⅓ of the price and strong enough. 

The other manufacturers I’m sure have their own MOQ and can make different diameters as well. 

I’ve been tinkering & testing other DIY designs as well. Definitely good enough for their intended purpose so far. But there are still ways to improve on their already good-enough strength. 

Thanks for sharing and I believe I have watched a few of your You Tube videos!  The Feihua style in 9.5mm would be sweet but MOQ of a 100 pieces is waaaay more than I would need but maybe other people would be interested also?  

Removable fall protection anchors like this one exist in the industry/ construction circles 

https://www.grainger.com/product/FALLTECH-Concrete-Anchor-310-lb-Wt-36MF76

The 310 weight limit is the climber weight. Tensile strength is 5k

The Petzl Pulse anchors have a fundamental flaw in that they do not respond kindly to any applied torque under load. Part of the reason they are intended to be installed in pairs and for static loading only (not rated for leader falls).

So if you are equipping on steep rock or happen to swing sideways to brace for drilling then be wary.

The retractable strip shears off near the tip then prevents the assembly from being removed from the hole.

This has happened enough that Petzl have had numerous complaints - I've spoken with Petzl's Tech Director about the issue (year plus previously) and so say them, are in the process of redesigning the product.

Kevin Maliczak wrote:

On your DIY version, are you essentially capturing an oversized hanger between a cut and flared sleeve bolt and a retainer ring?

Dan W wrote:

On your DIY version, are you essentially capturing an oversized hanger between a cut and flared sleeve bolt and a retainer ring?

Hi. Yes.

The top of the sleeve has a few cuts on it so I'm able to bend the tabs back, essentially making a flange (similar to that of the Fixe Triplex). This flange will intentionally sit on top of the hanger so it can better ensure (and for easier) removable of the sleeve from the hole. The retaining ring is so that the hanger doesn't slide of the end of the bolt's sleeve. The sleeve needs to fit inside the hanger, so yes, it's an oversized hanger. For example, my 5/16" (8mm) RB use 6mm threads, but the sleeve is 8mm. For the 10mm version, threads are 8mm, and needs a 10mm hole. 

TThurman wrote:

Removable fall protection anchors like this one exist in the industry/ construction circles 

https://www.grainger.com/product/FALLTECH-Concrete-Anchor-310-lb-Wt-36MF76

The 310 weight limit is the climber weight. Tensile strength is 5k

I did see this but I can’t seem to find the diameter hole it accepts? The connection point looks definitely like a lanyard attachment point and after almost 3 decades of arboriculture I know that clipping point!  Wonder if it could be swapped out for a hanger not that it would matter that much?