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Foot warning: Recommendations for wide toe box climbing shoes trad/gym shoes

Original Post
Cole Hammond · · Boise, ID · Joined Jun 2024 · Points: 0

Hey guys wondered what the more expert opinions would be on what type of shoe is best for a wider toe that’s more Roman/orient shaped. I’d appreciate some expert or more experienced insight on this one. Thanks y’all. 

Where's Walden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 231

Five Ten and Unparallel have many that will be reasonable. Butora has wide-specific models. Evolve has a couple that might be reasonable. Avoid La Sportiva.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Ah I see you have the iconic, paralelargram foot. 

You need volume volume volume. 

Scarpa maestro would be a good option along with a few options from la sportiva such as the kataki, otaki, skwarma(one or more of these may have since been discontinued) but even the TC pro is a good option and very wide especially in the new model with the different tongue. Evolv do some incredibly wide shoes, if I remember correctly, the generals are some of the widest shoes on the market. 

5.10 was known for fitting wide because unlike its European counterparts it's build quality was rubbish, the sides would bulge out and there was no real structure to the shoe, the actual lasts used were pretty narrow and not particularly high volume. This has since changed a bit with Adidas knowing how to build a shoe and they're pretty average in width and volume. 

A good option that could save some $$$ could be something like the scarpa origin vs, low profile for trad but still sticky and soft enough for indoors. Most importantly it's wide, high volume and comfy. 

Scarpa veloce lace is also a good option. 

Leif Mahoney · · Superior, WI · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 233

Side note about the TC pros. Fresh out of the box mine felt painfully narrow, but just spend 5 minutes working the laces loose at the bottom and they’re great.

Jacob Miller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Try the otaki. My second and third toes aren't quite as tall as your but they're pretty close. The otaki is the most comfortable performance shoes for me and works well for vertical trad climbing on edges and small cracks in my opinion. I am a kataki super fan but they're all gone I think.

Terry Owens · · Reno · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 5

The Unparallel moccasins have the widest toe box of any moccasins on the market. They're cheap and sticky. I've been using them as gym shoes for ~5 years, and have a second pair in my street shoe size for finger cracks and slab.

The rand is very compliant, and the upper will stretch out to fit the width of your foot. They won't stretch in length, though, so buy them the correct length of your foot. Their recommended size chart gives me my preferred fit. 

Sam Ehmann · · Midwest · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 54

Oh boy do I have a lot I can say about trying to buy wide shoes…

Trad shoes and gym shoes are kinda different things in my opinion. For softer gym bouldering shoes the scarpa veloce and unparallel flagships (not pro), Unparallel Qubit and unparallel moccs are good options. Like others have said, UP lasts don’t actually run all that wide, they just have tall rands with soft rubber that do a good job of opening up and accommodating wider feet. The ones I listed above are the widest in their lineup. The Evolv mocc is also nice, quite a bit stiffer than the UP mocc and is fairly wide in the larger sizes.

For stiff trad/face climbing shoes, you have a few good options. La sportiva Finales are pretty amazing for the price, and actually run quite wide in the larger sizes. they are fairly pointy so you will probably have some curl in your outside toes, how much of a problem that is is up to you. Out of all the TC Pro clones, the evolv yosemite bum has the widest and most square toe box by far. If you really want a shoe for both face trad and the gym, these are actually not a bad option because they have Evolv’s softer rubber which would do better in the gym than XS edge. Acopa also makes some very nice performance trad shoes built around wider lasts. The Legend and JB are awesome and on the stiffer side, and the Aztec is also good if you want something super super soft. These again are a little pointy so you will probably have some curl in your outside toes, but the forefoot is nice and wide overall. 

When shopping for shoes with you foot shape, really pay attention to that toe box shape and pointy-ness and you will be able to rule out a ton of shoes on the market without even having to try them on. Look for the more square ones. 

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

i have EEEE width foot. scarpa maestros were the best at accomodating a wide toe box. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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