Petzl Adjust vs Camp Swing vs Edelrid Switch Adjust

Hi everyone! I've scoured the forums and internets for a bit more information on these things and the differences. I think my old system might need some good ol' fashioned updating. 

The closest thing I've seen comparing adjustable personal anchor system is this one - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La7psWFxZFI
And close forums are only looking at the petzl and camp versions: mountainproject.com/forum/t…

My experience with using friends' PASs is that the Petzl adjust is harder to lengthen under load, and the camp swing is a bit short. I've not used the Edelrid Switch, but the ease of lengthening under load seems really nice and I am leaning towards that. However, the Edelrid is like twice the price of the Petzl and CAMP. Is there a reason for that? 

What are people's experiences and maybe if there might be other resources out there? 

I've also used the petzl adjust used for aid climbing to connect ladders to, which is really helpful for getting your body close up to the top rung of ladders when the next placement can be high. My friend had replaced the rope with a longer one for this purpose to have one rope (longer than the stock rope of petzl adjust) have two petzl adjusts connected from tie in points to the ladders. 

Thanks in advance! 

I went to the petzl adjust and it’s fine, I don’t find it lengthening under tension (or not) a salient feature to routine free climbing. I like that it racks well to the side (I stuff the tail in a pocket) rather than butt floss style. I don’t like that it has a very similar color to my main rope, but that’s a pretty particular gripe.

For aid climbing, either use two Yates adjustable daisies, or use the dual connect adjust (but never shorten them while leading) alongside an alfifi. The yates/alfifi style buckles are the only ones that can truly be adjusted under tension, but they are also not full strength, so not a good PAS.

I have really limited experience, but based on my own experience, and what people more experienced than me prefer, it seems like two yates daisies is preferred for steeper and harder aid, due to the easy ability to lower off one piece onto the other. However, using an alfifi along with two longer tethers (or nothing on your ladders!) seems to be faster for lower angle terrain and easier aid.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

If you're inexperienced and don't know what you're talking about, why are you even responding? Pretty much everything you've said in your post is incorrect or only partially true. At bare minimum, there's multiple threads about his exact topic that both the OP and you can refer to in order to get information before posting (either posting the thread itself or the response).
It's not even worth responding to this thread because there's nothing new in the question from what's been asked and answered multiple times before. 

What parts do you disagree with? Would you care to correct me?

I've climbed a few walls, and the people who have taught me have climbed a lot of walls. This is what they have told me, and my own experience seems to back it up so far.

Edit: i realize that the way I used "lower off" when I meant transfer weight could have been confusing. I specifically meant during roofs and traverses, the ability to have two tethers that you can adjust when fully weighted is really helpful.

Not sure why you're posting here if you are just going to be rude. Rule one brother. 

I've read a bunch of those threads and it seems like there's a lot of conflicting info. If you have any information that contradicts what I've said, I'd love to hear it.

Yukon Cornelius wrote:

Not sure why you're posting here if you are just going to be rude. Rule one brother. 

I've read a bunch of those threads and it seems like there's a lot of conflicting info. If you have any information that contradicts what I've said, I'd love to hear it.

I wouldn’t expect much. Aid climbers use their personality for birth control, lol!

Matt (OP), 

In an effort to un-derail this one… I really like the Camp Swing. It released under load quite well.  However, the factory rope is both too short and too fat. I experimented, beginning with an 8.5, then an 8.9, and finally a 9.4. The 9.4mm rope works for my weight, but I suspect it would depend on the climber. If you go that route, the Hownot2 store is fantastic. They will sell you any rope they have by-the-foot, though you may have to email them and ask for it since not every rope is listed with a by-the-foot option. I emailed and they cut 15 foot pieces of a couple ropes for me. Actually they updated the website to offer by-the-foot for those ropes.

I’m very happy with the Swing. It releases well under load, is comfortingly hefty, and listed as a fall protection device, not just a positioning device. Good luck finding the PAS that works for you.

TThurman wrote:

Matt (OP), 

In an effort to un-derail this one… I really like the Camp Swing. It released under load quite well.  However, the factory rope is both too short and too fat. I experimented, beginning with an 8.5, then an 8.9, and finally a 9.4. The 9.4mm rope works for my weight, but I suspect it would depend on the climber. If you go that route, the Hownot2 store is fantastic. They will sell you any rope they have by-the-foot, though you may have to email them and ask for it since not every rope is listed with a by-the-foot option. I emailed and they cut 15 foot pieces of a couple ropes for me. Actually they updated the website to offer by-the-foot for those ropes.

I’m very happy with the Swing. It releases well under load, is comfortingly hefty, and listed as a fall protection device, not just a positioning device. Good luck finding the PAS that works for you.

Thank you TThurman for un-derailing this one! I appreciate it sincerely. Always good to have other experiences.