Mountain Project Logo

Any reviews/use of Mega Jul II ? (2nd/updated version please)

Original Post
Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

My Google Fu has failed and I have not found any reviews of the updated Mega Jul II - "MJ2". I see the CE cert was issued Sep. of 2023.
https://avs.edelrid.com/images/attribut/73831-01_Mega_Jul_II_Conf.pdf

Looking to replace my aging Smart Alpine, and wondering how this handles guide mode. (The Smart handles fatter ropes very well)
MJ2 is rated 8.6-10.0mm for single ropes; the OG MJ was 8.9-10.5.

Pics to show there is a difference (Edelrid's site only shows the MJ2 now)

Slight update to design (wonder if it is like Smart 2.0 vs OG? Is this the Smart Alpine 2.0 I've been waiting for?)

Anyone have one and can compare to the OG Mega Jul and Giga?

Pavel Pavelovish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2024 · Points: 0

I do have the MJ1 and, same as you, could not find any information online so emailed Edelrid about the differences:

„We have made design improvements to the MegaJul II that make it much easier to pull the rope when belaying a second climber in lead mode and to feed the rope when belaying a lead climber“ (Translated)


If I have the chance I will give it a try, but to me the statement was to vague to go and order one.

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

https://youtube.com/shorts/Yvo0HOr9woE?si=MmI_ubm71hoZ-wE6

Nathaniel Francis · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 90

I've been using the mega jul 2 for around 2 weeks, mostly alpine climbing and a little sport. I haven't used the V1 or smart so I can't compare it to that. Using with 8.1 half ropes, there's about the same amount of friction as a reverso but more than an ATC for belaying from the top. Using it for belaying a leader with the 8.1s was a breeze as long as there wasn't a huge loop of rope on the brake side, if there was, it made it quite hard to pull out slack. I also used it with a 9.1 beal joker. It worked really well for belaying a leader or follower. Pulling up slack in guide mode felt about the same as an ATC and easier than a reverso. I also tried it with a 9.5 sport rope, but it was too grabby for my liking for belaying a leader and I never tried it in guide mode. Another small annoyance is unlike an ATC you will have to rethread the rope through the device when switching from belaying a follower to leader. 

I tried rappelling once in auto locking mode with the 9.1 and it was very jerky. Using it not in locking mode with the 8.1s was great. My biggest problem with using it as a rappel device is that if you're the first person down and need to ascend, you cannot clip it into guide mode and use as an ascender. The carabiner jams into the slot when you try pulling rope through. 

In my opinion it excels when using skinny half or twin ropes or a skinny single if you don't like a grigri. The leader gets a belay with the mega jul and the follower is belayed with a atc or reverso. However you have to remember to switch off devices. Let me know if you have more questions, happy to do some testing as well if you'd like.

 
Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

Yep.
Gave it a try with a 9.5 Mammut - more effort than I want for guide mode.
I'll be posting my for sale in the morning - we still need to wear out our 9.5+ ropes.

davidhousky · · Lake Forest, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 7

The mega Jul 1 instantly became my favorite all around belay/rappel device when I first used it. However, it had many short comings: top rope belay was not very smooth, rappel a bit jerky at times, and lead belay smoothness very dependent on rope diameter. 

Then the giga Jul came out, and it was better in pretty much every way, but has the annoying slider mechanism which can also be a bit confusing. I personally found setting up guide mode on this device much more confusing than the mega Jul. 

The mega Jul 2 somehow improves on the giga Jul in every way, WHILE removing the slider! I personally find it easier than a gri gri for top rope belay, just as easy as an ATC for lead belay, and smooth on the rappel. Granted, I've been using this style of device for years now so I'm quite used to it - I've found the chief complaint from new users to be the thumb movement not being natural/obvious for releasing the rope. With practice it becomes 2nd nature, so I don't see this as a downside for the device. 

To me, the mega Jul 2 has finally achieved what I've always wanted - the smoothness of an ATC tube style device with the safety of an auto blocking device. It's such a big step forward I am replacing my 1 year old giga Jul with it. I can't vouch for every rope diameter but normal to smaller diameters feel great. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Reviews
Post a Reply to "Any reviews/use of Mega Jul II ? (2nd/updated v…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.