Mt. Whitney East Face permit

This might be an immediate dead end but does anybody ever go up Whitney and camp to acclimatize before doing the east face? Or is everyone just an absolute stud who pounds through it on a day permit?

im curious because the multi day permit strictly states that its not meant for mountaineers route or other routes in that area. I remember doing the mountaineers route in 2021, a time when I was very fit, and being absolutely gassed doing it in a single day push. Thought I was gonna lose control  on the final 400’ on the way up and even on the second class traverse on the way down. I’m a solid trad climber now, so I’m not concerned about 5.7 climbing, but can’t imagine doing the east face in the same mental condition I was in on the mountaineers route - head pounding out of my skull.

thoughts?

The multiday permit isn't used for the MR or the 5th class routes because its an entirely different approach and trail. The permit you're looking for is the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

You can absolutely camp on the North Fork. Iceberg Lake makes for a great basecamp for anything on that side of Whitney, as well as Mt. Russell.

I’ve done the EF and EB car to car several times.   It’s totally doable in a day if that’s the permit you get.  I prefer car to car climbs in the Whitney area due to the fact I don't have to carry a heavy pack and can move fast, at least fast for me.  I'm an old man and if I can do it its surely possible for most.  Start early.  

Thanks both of you! Great input/motivation. I’ll get after it by any means available

If you do get an overnight permit, stay several days - long enough to do multiple routes.

Try some Ibuprofen. Works.
https://med.stanford.edu/news/all-news/2012/03/ibuprofen-decreases-likelihood-of-altitude-sickness-researchers-find.html 

tom donnelly wrote:

If you do get an overnight permit, stay several days - long enough to do multiple routes.

Absolutely! And if you are just exhausted and not in the mood for yet another route, take a couple days coming back down the mountain. We spent a night at Lower Boyscout Lake after climbing the EB. It was easily the best night of the trip and it made the last leg of the hike, back to the car the next day, really pleasant.

Michael Smalley wrote:

Absolutely! And if you are just exhausted and not in the mood for yet another route, take a couple days coming back down the mountain. We spent a night at Lower Boyscout Lake after climbing the EB. It was easily the best night of the trip and it made the last leg of the hike, back to the car the next day, really pleasant.

+1. Spent a night at lower climbing EB, and while EB was a nightmare, the camping was stellar. Also spent a night at iceberg the month before on Fishhook, much less enjoyable and woke up cold AF. Even in august that place is cold

Caleb Milner wrote:

+1. Spent a night at lower climbing EB, and while EB was a nightmare, the camping was stellar. Also spent a night at iceberg the month before on Fishhook, much less enjoyable and woke up cold AF. Even in august that place is cold

Iceberg was perfectly pleasant for us in July. We camped at Iceberg the nights before and after EB. Then we casually woke up the next morning, decided against making a run up Fishhook, meandered back down to LBSL, spent another beautiful afternoon/night at the lake, and finally wandered back into Whitney Portal the next morning before the afternoon heat fully kicked in. 

Yeah, acclimatizing on Whitney before tackling the east face sounds like a smart move, especially if you've felt the altitude hit hard in the past. Even if the permits aren't explicitly for those routes, pacing yourself with a camping trip could really help.

To piggy back on this thread - I am confused by what permits are required to hike to Iceberg lake, camp for a few nights, and climb Whitney via e.g East face

There seem to be two permits covering the same area:

1. The North Fork of Lone Pine Creek which can cover a multi-day trip to Iceberg lake recreation.gov/permits/233262

2. The Whitney day use permit https://www.recreation.gov/permits/445860 which has a link to a map https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MEDIA/stelprdb5347548.jpg that specifically says this day use permit is required to hike into the iceberg lake/whitney area

Do you need BOTH of these?

R P wrote:

To piggy back on this thread - I am confused by what permits are required to hike to Iceberg lake, camp for a few nights, and climb Whitney via e.g East face

There seem to be two permits covering the same area:

1. The North Fork of Lone Pine Creek which can cover a multi-day trip to Iceberg lake recreation.gov/permits/233262

2. The Whitney day use permit https://www.recreation.gov/permits/445860 which has a link to a map https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_MEDIA/stelprdb5347548.jpg that specifically says this day use permit is required to hike into the iceberg lake/whitney area

Do you need BOTH of these?

                          

You do NOT need both of those.

You only need the N.F. of Lone Pine Creek if you are staying overnight. But beware, there is a low quota on that trail, so only about 10 per day are issued.  You do NOT need to select the "Overnight Exiting Mt. Whitney" option on the permit reservation, unless you are hiking down the main Whitney trail.

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/inyo/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=20808

You do need the Whitney Day Use Permit for the North Fork of LPC if you are not staying overnight (i.e., car-to-car)

FrankPS wrote:

You do NOT need both of those.

You only need the N.F. of Lone Pine Creek if you are staying overnight. But beware, there is a low quota on that trail, so only about 10 per day are issued.  You do NOT need to select the "Overnight Exiting Mt. Whitney" option on the permit reservation, unless you are hiking down the main Whitney trail.

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/inyo/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=20808

You do need the Whitney Day Use Permit for the North Fork of LPC if you are not staying overnight (i.e., car-to-car)

Thanks!