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Backpack Nerds: Ultralight ish Backpack for Multipitch Approaches/Descents for Rope Carry

Original Post
Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10

Kinda specific - but also...I love backpacks...

  1. If you don't want to leave anything at the base
  2. If you don't want the lead climber to carry a pack
  3. If you don't want to 2+ hour approaches with your rope being made into a rope backpack to just avoid the slight discomfort after a long day of the rope digging into your shoulders
  4. Pack must fit a 70m 9.2 to 9.5mm rope as that's usually what I multi with at the moment


Does anyone have a good recommendation for a lightweight backpack (lets say less than 13oz/1lb/450g) that can hold the rope inside the bag (so volume would be somewhere in the 20+ L area) and then after it's use of carrying a rope (this is most critical), the entire pack can be rolled/stuffed into a small size to be stuffed into the main multipitch pack for the follower?


I've found a few options - curious if any folks have any other ideas or if anyones used these? EDIT*** - much lighter options listed/summarized in a later post below!

Mammut Neon: https://www.mammut.com/us/en/products/2050-00042/neon-rope-bag

25L, shoulder straps look to be more comfortable than a piece of rope at 18.3oz

Wildcountry Mosquito: https://www.wildcountry.com/en-us/mosquito-rope-bag-40-0000010008?number=

20L, much nicer looking shoulder straps than mammut and lighter at 17.6oz

DMM Pitcher: https://www.backcountrygear.com/pitcher-rope-bag/

26L, 16.6oz but still with padded shoulder straps

Amazon special no name: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092JGZRTG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2

12.2oz...maybe this is the ticket?

Bougie option I'd probably buy if I found one used for a decent price as it's no longer in production: https://www.outdoorline.sk/en/backpacks/backpack-up-to-40l/hyperlite-mountain-gear-metro-pack-black

Hyperlite mountain gear metro pack, 30L, folds up to about the size of a sandwich bag/stack of a few CD cases, still rated for 20lbs carry, 8.6oz. They currently make a bag very similar to this and it's much lighter but it's only rated to 10lbs load carry so with rope + a few other bits inside...it's a bit out of the packs working load?

Ry C · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil.

20L, 2.5oz folds up to about the size of a lime. $45

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10
Ry C wrote:

Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil.

20L, 2.5oz folds up to about the size of a lime. $45

do you have this pack? have you stuffed a 70m rope in there? looks to be a tight fit?

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I have the sea to summit but the shoulder straps are a bit prone to rolling into a little thin strip with any significant weight. Not a big deal if you’re wearing layers but uncomfortable if not. The salewa vector 22 ul is much better and only a little bit heavier. You can still stuff it in your pocket if you’re done carrying it. 

Professor Watermelon · · MADISON · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

BD speed zip 22.  Maybe not ultralight, but light enough.  Carries loads well.  Versatile, climbs well.  Pretty tough.

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10

for purposes of this - the pack has got to be packable into basically a nothing size. that BD speed pack looks like a great pack and is light but its far too substantial to be packed and put inside another pack. pack here wouldnt be climbed with. once at the base - this pack goes away. 

M M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 261

https://www.mountainhardwear.com/p/ul-20-backpack-1891001.html

Slow Grown · · Idaho · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I've used the Hyperlite Stuff Pack for exactly this.
Expensive. 30L, <5oz. Mostly waterproof. Folds up to approx size of medium paperback book.
More comfortable than I expected w/ ~12lbs or less.
Carried two strips of closed cell to add shoulder padding. Prob not necessary.
More bulky when rolled up than the S2S ultra-sil, listed above, but more comfortable (I've used both for this).

Carries up to 80m 9.3 easily. Anything shorter/smaller and there's extra room for snacks or water.
Always looks/feels like it is going to fall apart; but hasn't yet (have never truly rubbed it across rocks to test it though)
Bonus: when backpacking internationally it's made a great purse/grocery-getting secondary bag.

hdjohnson · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 355

I use this Liberty Mountain Hansen Rope Bag as a minimalist rope backpack for canyoneering when there’s enough people to have someone carry only the rope. It may fit the bill for what you’re describing for a reasonable price. 

mbk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I wonder if you could scavenge some of those slip-on pads that tend to come with the shoulder straps for things like laptop bags, camera bags, duffel bags, etc.

I have a pile of those because I (almost) never shoulder-carry those things.

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10

I 100% just thought about using pool-noodles as shoulder pads for alpine rope backpack haaaa

But I feel certain partners…may not be into that. Maybe. 

Rexford Nesakwatch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

https://eu.blueice.com/products/reach-20l-pack

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

If you’re considering going bougie, go all the way with the Samaya Ultra35 or 20. My wife and I both have them, pretty slick stuff.

Also- I wouldn’t consider that specific HMG pack for what you are looking for. I’ve seen and handled it in person. I believe it was intended as a waterproof city and bike commute pack. The Stuff Pack is kind of similar. The Summit 30 pack is definitely more purpose built. 

Professor Watermelon · · MADISON · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
Chris Outings wrote:

for purposes of this - the pack has got to be packable into basically a nothing size. that BD speed pack looks like a great pack and is light but its far too substantial to be packed and put inside another pack. pack here wouldnt be climbed with. once at the base - this pack goes away. 

Got it.  I just take the speed zip and it carries everything, and holds a rope nicely on the outside.

Slow Grown · · Idaho · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Chris C wrote:

If you’re considering going bougie, go all the way with the Samaya Ultra35 or 20. My wife and I both have them, pretty slick stuff.

Also- I wouldn’t consider that specific HMG pack for what you are looking for. I’ve seen and handled it in person. I believe it was intended as a waterproof city and bike commute pack. The Stuff Pack is kind of similar. The Summit 30 pack is definitely more purpose built. 

I’ve gone full-bougie these days. I have the Ultra 35 as well, and it is an awesome alpine pack. But I don’t think it meets his specific requirements. If both me and my partner are climbing with packs then I’d carry my Ultra35 (or something like the Summit 30). But when we just want one pack on the route I’ve used the HMG Stuff Pack for exactly what he describes; car-to-car missions where I’ve carried the rope + a few personal items (12-15lbs) to/from routes (e.g., N. Ridge Stuart, Exum ridge, Voie Contamine, etc) and stashed the Stuff Pack into the bottom of our small alpine pack that’s then carried by the second.

The HMG Stuff Pack looks and feels super flimsy, but it has been perfect for this specific use. And so far it has held up to approx a half dozen trips like this (plus loads of days carrying crap around in urban settings) and it is quite comfy. I would avoid using the Stuff Pack on an approach/descent that involved chimneying or squeezing/scraping my way through tight rocks. I think that would beat it up real quick. 

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
Slow Grown wrote:

I’ve gone full-bougie these days. I have the Ultra 35 as well, and it is an awesome alpine pack. But I don’t think it meets his specific requirements. If both me and my partner are climbing with packs then I’d carry my Ultra35 (or something like the Summit 30). But when we just want one pack on the route I’ve used the HMG Stuff Pack for exactly what he describes; car-to-car missions where I’ve carried the rope + a few personal items (12-15lbs) to/from routes (e.g., N. Ridge Stuart, Exum ridge, Voie Contamine, etc) and stashed the Stuff Pack into the bottom of our small alpine pack that’s then carried by the second.

The HMG Stuff Pack looks and feels super flimsy, but it has been perfect for this specific use. And so far it has held up to approx a half dozen trips like this (plus loads of days carrying crap around in urban settings) and it is quite comfy. I would avoid using the Stuff Pack on an approach/descent that involved chimneying or squeezing/scraping my way through tight rocks. I think that would beat it up real quick. 

I personally like the slight addition of the rigidity on the Ultra35 compared to the ultra-ultralight like the Stuff Pack. I used a Blue Ice Reach for a bit for that sort of thing, but I never really fell in love with it and always ended up going for the Ultra. I prefer the slight additional weight (still only ~17.5oz) to get the better support on the approach when carrying the rack, rope, etc. In a way, I think with this pack being so light, robust, and supportive, it has taken over the roles of 2-3 packs I used to regularly use. But to each their own there, it’s a pretty personal decision at that point.

The Arcteryx Alpha FL30 is also an interesting contender.  It's still pretty light, is extremely robust, and climbs/carries fairly well.  I just sold my Alpha after many trusty years because my preference ended up leaning towards the Samaya/HMG options I own. But the Alpha is also selling for 1/3rd the price of the Ultra35 lol.  

Sick on N Ridge Stuart c2c! I climbed it in 2 days, so it’s not surprising our packs were different lol 

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10

definitely getting some really cool options here I likely wouldn't have ever come across. this is awesome!

so far i think these are a few of my favorites so far:

Reco from Graham Johnson - i went through salewa's current production packs and found the salewa ultralight 22L "modern" at 4.06oz: https://www.salewa.com/ultralight-22l-backpack-00-0000001420?c=516662&number=00-0000001420_0000000009 no features at all. packs into its own pocket an can even be hung off a harness. this can be found on amazon (although it ships from europe) under salewa modern.

similar to the salewa but a "non outdoors brand" Coalatree nomad packable 22L backpack https://coalatree.com/products/nomad-packable-backpack-black doesnt give the weight but i cant image its much more than 6oz. these seem to go on ebay for around $20. so this may be the low cost, no frills winner. packs into its own pocket and looks to be able to be hung off a harness

i love this brand and have a few of their packs and decided to give their site a look through and found a pretty good offering - Granite gear sawbill 20L at 6.08oz - this mayyyyy be too tight (or just perfect) for a 70m rope. supppper simple. daisys to lash harness on the outside...light but still decent shoulder straps: https://www.granitegear.com/outdoor/backpacks/day-packs/sawbill-20-new-2018.html

just found this brand. never heard them. Matador freerain22, 22L at 10.6oz. https://www.matadorequipment.com/products/freerain22?avad=192518_e3a82a4ed like all rolltop bags - looks like youd easily be able to stuff this beyond 22L of capacity 

Reco from M M - Mountain hardware UL 20L at 10.7oz https://www.mountainhardwear.com/p/ul-20-backpack-1891001.html this is a more featured version of the salewa. lots of exterior lash points. side water bottle holder which is great for those long approaches to not need to dig into packs. and can also be stuffed into itself and hung off a harness 



Hyperlite mountain gear 30L options: I think the stuff sack just visually seems too light delicate for what I'd like? But it probably is the most direct/best option for what I'm looking for - it just may not last long depending on who's carrying it. And then the Summit 30 almost seems to be on the other side where it may take up too much volume when packed up? I found a youtube review of this - granted this dude isnt packing this down as small as he possibly could - but the pack does look rather sustainable: https://youtu.be/DcRbKh05amQ?si=TwdiBt-BOSseAfE2&t=143 versus the photo on their website which shows it so beautifully/carefully/compactly packed. i never looked at the summit 30 before. but thats why i feel (the no longer in production) metro pack sits in the middle of these two offerings. stronger material than the stuff sack. would pack down smaller than the summit 30. 



all super cool options and all FAR lighter than any "climbing rope bag" on the market - so this is great!

Ben Ha · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10
Ben Ha wrote:

You can check out Climbing Tech Magic Pack 

https://www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/bags-and-backpacks/backpacks/magic-pack_

https://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Technology-Magic-Backpack-Orange/dp/B07N45CR53


CT is one of those brand sites i dont check out. great suggestion! pack looks awesome but states it can only fit a 60m half rope (8 ishhh mm diameter). my guess is for a 70m 9.2 to 9.5mm rope - would need at minimum 20L. i think for now im just going to pickup a 20L and another 22L backpack just to see if i can stuff my rope in there. thatll at least let me start eliminating some pack options. if i know i cant use a 20L pack...then those are all out. 

CalvinM · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 70

I am a little confused at your requirements of holding a 9.2-9.5mm 70m rope after it has been used.   What sort of descents or approaches are you doing that you need a pack for your rope instead of a coil?  I can only imagine semi-technical scrambling decent/approach where you want to be able to move a little bit better?  In that sort of terrain I am often bringing an 8.6mm 60m which is much smaller than your rope.

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10
CalvinM wrote:

I am a little confused at your requirements of holding a 9.2-9.5mm 70m rope after it has been used.   What sort of descents or approaches are you doing that you need a pack for your rope instead of a coil?  I can only imagine semi-technical scrambling decent/approach where you want to be able to move a little bit better?  In that sort of terrain I am often bringing an 8.6mm 60m which is much smaller than your rope.

some multipitch routes have 2, 3+ hour hiking approaches. not alpine climbing - fully pitched out climbing routes. i like doing multi with a 70m for linking/long pitches. one partner carries the rack. one partner carries the rope. the pair climbs with one pack. pretty standard stuff except maybe im just using a thicker rope. instead of alpine backpack coiling the rope - stuffing it into a ~6oz backpack with nice shoulder straps would add a lot of comfort to the day and be able to be packed up and stuffed into the main climbing pack that is carried by the follower without much fuss

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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