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TCUs in the South

Original Post
Mike Palmer · · NC · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 57

After living in NC for a couple of years and regularly going out to Moores/Linville/The New, I notice a lot of route postings and guidebooks have TCUs listed in the recommended gear. Aside from the occasional Moores route demanding uber-specific gear I’ve found most routes take C4s and Totems quite fine. So just curious and wanted to hear from other people if they think there’s better placements out there using TCUs or if it’s more personal preference.

Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Mike,

Any small cans work fine.  At the time many of the older guidebooks were published, TCUs were the most widely available small cams.


Tricams can be nice at the Glass, but they are not mandatory by any means.


safe climbing 

Andrew D · · Chattanooga · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 225

A red c3 and blue/yellow tcu’s always seem to fit when you need them most. 

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Mike Palmer wrote:

After living in NC for a couple of years and regularly going out to Moores/Linville/The New, I notice a lot of route postings and guidebooks have TCUs listed in the recommended gear. Aside from the occasional Moores route demanding uber-specific gear I’ve found most routes take C4s and Totems quite fine. So just curious and wanted to hear from other people if they think there’s better placements out there using TCUs or if it’s more personal preference.

Yeah, the tcu reference is mostly historical. They were a real game changer 30 years ago, but the placements that require that narrow a head are few and all f these new fangled small cams work just fine, usually better in most placements (have warily become n love with my totems), though Sporty n the past had no issues taking 30 footers on a purple (#0). ‘Bomber man.”
Mr. Ellis is wrong on the utility of tri-cams though, these were even more of a game changer than tcus, and I could put him or any of you on a number of NC routes where these are required (even the big ones, thinking of a route on Fodderstack where you had better f**king have a green—what is that, a #4?) or your head might explode. 

BigCountry · · The High Country · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20

Smh tricams suck and you know it

Danny Birchman · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 171
BigCountry wrote:

Smh tricams suck and you know it

Hush your blasphemy! They're the best thing Jesus ever invented and I'm being dead serious! Repent or burn in ball nut hell!

Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,368
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Danny Birchman · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 171
Ti ck wrote:

It makes me sicker than a Guatemalan hooker when I look over an see someone with tricams on their rack, filth 

If my tricams give you VD. They're even more useful than I ever imagined! 

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24
Danny Birchman wrote:

If my tricams give you VD. They're even more useful than I ever imagined! 

They say the Pink ones get the most milage.

Ti ck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 2,368
Shaniac wrote:

They say the Pink ones get the most milage.

I mean the pink one is better than the brown one.

Sean Barb · · Moores Wall, North Carolina. · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 263

"TCUs" were used as a catch-all term for small, flexible cams.  The term represented all brands of cams in the sizes of fingers and everything smaller. This terminology shows up in guidebooks from the 80s and 90s.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Sean Barb wrote:

"TCUs" were used as a catch-all term for small, flexible cams.  The term represented all brands of cams in the sizes of fingers and everything smaller. This terminology shows up in guidebooks from the 80s and 90s.

Almost. They had to have three lobes to be TCUs. For example, the old WC FlexiFriend (1990) went very small, but was never considered a TCU. 

EPurpur · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 1,716

Blue TCU and pink Tricam are the go-to north carolina pieces!

Caleb BR · · Landis, NC · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 55

Another one for the blue metolius - hardly ever climb a pitch on NC granite where I don't place mine. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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