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Widest climbing shoe on the market?

Original Post
Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

For those of you with not only "duck feet", but "double-wide duck feet": What's your choice of shoes?

I was suggested to try Katana Lace. With a "reasonable" sideways squish pain, I still had about 1/4" of space between my longest toe and the inside front of the shoe. 

I tried the Scarpa Vapor Lace but found them oddly "floppy". The whole 1/3 front of the shoe "wiggled" as soon as I put them on a climbing hold. Maybe my foot likes a bit stiffer shoe. 

I had very bad experience with Finales. The orange ones available a bunch of years back soften up to unuseable sandals after three months' use. 

The mid Generators feel extremely clunky with lots of air pockets inside. Do they soften a bit and reshape according to your feet or do they stay clunky?

I have seen low-cut Generators online. Are these the same build/fit/shape as the "mid" Generators or are the "low" shoes a completely different beast?

Looking for lace-ups and flat-ish all-day kind of shoe.

Christopher Chu · · CA and NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40

TC Pros are the most comfortable for me.  I also found this Scarpa chart that might be of help.  Haven't tried the Veloce, but the reviews have said they're the best for wide feet.

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132

I have 4E feet (tailor’s bunion/bunionette) with high arches. I also have Haglund’s deformities (Bauer bumps) on both heels. The only thing that works for me is Mythos. I’ve tried lots of options.

I had to size up from 40 (mythos) to 42 in order to get TC pro’s that I could even bear to wear for a single pitch. Of course, every foot is different and YMMV. Even those sized-up TC pros give me heel pain.

This specific subject is near and dear to my heart. If you find something that you love, be sure to share it.

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,118

There was a thread on here about this, one of the members (maybe Mark from CA) makes his own super wide shoes from cutting a big pair down. Let me see if I can dig that up.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Boreal are very wide if you can find them, the kataki, otaki or skwarma are probably the widest shoes la sportiva makes. 

The low cut generators are a very different beast, a bit down turned, more comparable to a katana than a tc pro and a bit softer and more sensitive. 

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

You may want to try the Yosemite Bum. I’ve got pretty wide feet by normal-human standards (ie. non-climbers). Those shoes were wayyyyy too wide for me. I’ve also tried or owned every one of the shoes in your original post. Those are all little tiny dainty feet shoes compared to the YBs. 

Caroline Yearwood · · Washington · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0
Cory N wrote:

There was a thread on here about this, one of the members (maybe Mark from CA) makes his own super wide shoes from cutting a big pair down. Let me see if I can dig that up.

Here's Mark's post about making his own wide climbing shoes for those with some DIY skills.

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 194

Acopa often gets recommended for wide feet. TC Pros, Otakis, and Scarpa Vapor Laces are duck shaped, but not necessarily super wide. I can't believe someone recommended the Katanas for a wide fit or duck shaped fit. 

A C · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0

Butora makes high volume shoes that work well for me.

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1
Demetri V wrote:

...

I had to size up from 40 (mythos) to 42 in order to get TC pro’s that I could even bear to wear for a single pitch. Of course, every foot is different and YMMV. Even those sized-up TC pros give me heel pain.

...

slice the power band with a razor blade(carefully) and it'll relieve some of the tension around the heel

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132
Big B wrote:

slice the power band with a razor blade(carefully) and it'll relieve some of the tension around the heel

Thanks! I’ll give it a try. Where along the band do you slice?

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

I did 3 cuts, one directly centered at the back, then one on each side about an inch in...in hindsight however the one at the back woulda probably been enough.

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43
Demetri V wrote:

Thanks! I’ll give it a try. Where along the band do you slice?

Check out Dylan’s posts in this thread. My partner has cut out the heel bands on several pairs of TC pros and it helped her Haglund’s a lot.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/message/120857807

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120840320/how-to-stretch-out-tight-shoes-tc-pro?page=2

The bottom line is manufacturers should start to make shoes accordingly, considering how climbing shoes create Haglund’s for so many climbers!

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43
rock climbing wrote:

They do make shoes that are very ergonomic how else people would be able to stuff their feet in shoes that are 5 or 7 sizes smaller.

You can’t blame manufacturers, people choose to downsize shoes. 

Based on the video below, I DO blame climbing shoe manufacturers for not making shoes like the ones Vibram modified for Beatrice Colli to help with her Haglund’s. Similar shoes could be available for the general public. There is certainly a market for such shoes.




Mark Webster · · Tacoma · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 235

I'm still here (Tacoma) making my own wide shoes by cutting down 14's. I must have done a dozen by now. I've even had them resoled. On my trip to City of Rocks last week someone told me one of the big brands now has a guy that will make custom rock shoes from molds. My process, linked above, is not hard. I got it to work the very first time I tried, and with my instructions - tutorial you can skip all the mistakes I was making in the beginning.

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132
rock climbing wrote:

Yeah that was pretty pathetic. They didn’t even make a shoe for her issue.

Here is a a better idea don’t downsize shoes and  you will not have Haglund issues. 

I played sports my whole life. I got it from cleats. It’s a bone growth, it’s not like it’ll just go away if I don’t downsize rock shoes.

Sam Schwinghammer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0
Patrik wrote:

For those of you with not only "duck feet", but "double-wide duck feet": What's your choice of shoes?

I was suggested to try Katana Lace. With a "reasonable" sideways squish pain, I still had about 1/4" of space between my longest toe and the inside front of the shoe. 

I tried the Scarpa Vapor Lace but found them oddly "floppy". The whole 1/3 front of the shoe "wiggled" as soon as I put them on a climbing hold. Maybe my foot likes a bit stiffer shoe. 

I had very bad experience with Finales. The orange ones available a bunch of years back soften up to unuseable sandals after three months' use. 

The mid Generators feel extremely clunky with lots of air pockets inside. Do they soften a bit and reshape according to your feet or do they stay clunky?

I have seen low-cut Generators online. Are these the same build/fit/shape as the "mid" Generators or are the "low" shoes a completely different beast?

Looking for lace-ups and flat-ish all-day kind of shoe.

I've enjoyed my Evolv Rave sz 11.5 with 11.5 EE feet so far.  Kronos were also good.  I tried Defy velcro in half a size up for comfort.  They got pouchy enough to rotate around my foot one hot sweaty day, but there is a lace version.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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