Widest climbing shoe on the market?
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For those of you with not only "duck feet", but "double-wide duck feet": What's your choice of shoes? I was suggested to try Katana Lace. With a "reasonable" sideways squish pain, I still had about 1/4" of space between my longest toe and the inside front of the shoe. I tried the Scarpa Vapor Lace but found them oddly "floppy". The whole 1/3 front of the shoe "wiggled" as soon as I put them on a climbing hold. Maybe my foot likes a bit stiffer shoe. I had very bad experience with Finales. The orange ones available a bunch of years back soften up to unuseable sandals after three months' use. The mid Generators feel extremely clunky with lots of air pockets inside. Do they soften a bit and reshape according to your feet or do they stay clunky? I have seen low-cut Generators online. Are these the same build/fit/shape as the "mid" Generators or are the "low" shoes a completely different beast? Looking for lace-ups and flat-ish all-day kind of shoe. |
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TC Pros are the most comfortable for me. I also found this Scarpa chart that might be of help. Haven't tried the Veloce, but the reviews have said they're the best for wide feet. |
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I have 4E feet (tailor’s bunion/bunionette) with high arches. I also have Haglund’s deformities (Bauer bumps) on both heels. The only thing that works for me is Mythos. I’ve tried lots of options. This specific subject is near and dear to my heart. If you find something that you love, be sure to share it. |
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There was a thread on here about this, one of the members (maybe Mark from CA) makes his own super wide shoes from cutting a big pair down. Let me see if I can dig that up. |
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Boreal are very wide if you can find them, the kataki, otaki or skwarma are probably the widest shoes la sportiva makes. The low cut generators are a very different beast, a bit down turned, more comparable to a katana than a tc pro and a bit softer and more sensitive. |
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You may want to try the Yosemite Bum. I’ve got pretty wide feet by normal-human standards (ie. non-climbers). Those shoes were wayyyyy too wide for me. I’ve also tried or owned every one of the shoes in your original post. Those are all little tiny dainty feet shoes compared to the YBs. |
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Acopa often gets recommended for wide feet. TC Pros, Otakis, and Scarpa Vapor Laces are duck shaped, but not necessarily super wide. I can't believe someone recommended the Katanas for a wide fit or duck shaped fit. |
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Butora makes high volume shoes that work well for me. |
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Demetri V wrote: slice the power band with a razor blade(carefully) and it'll relieve some of the tension around the heel |
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Big B wrote: Thanks! I’ll give it a try. Where along the band do you slice? |
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I did 3 cuts, one directly centered at the back, then one on each side about an inch in...in hindsight however the one at the back woulda probably been enough. |
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Demetri V wrote: Check out Dylan’s posts in this thread. My partner has cut out the heel bands on several pairs of TC pros and it helped her Haglund’s a lot. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120840320/how-to-stretch-out-tight-shoes-tc-pro?page=2 The bottom line is manufacturers should start to make shoes accordingly, considering how climbing shoes create Haglund’s for so many climbers! |
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rock climbing wrote: Based on the video below, I DO blame climbing shoe manufacturers for not making shoes like the ones Vibram modified for Beatrice Colli to help with her Haglund’s. Similar shoes could be available for the general public. There is certainly a market for such shoes. |
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I'm still here (Tacoma) making my own wide shoes by cutting down 14's. I must have done a dozen by now. I've even had them resoled. On my trip to City of Rocks last week someone told me one of the big brands now has a guy that will make custom rock shoes from molds. My process, linked above, is not hard. I got it to work the very first time I tried, and with my instructions - tutorial you can skip all the mistakes I was making in the beginning. |
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rock climbing wrote: I played sports my whole life. I got it from cleats. It’s a bone growth, it’s not like it’ll just go away if I don’t downsize rock shoes. |
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Patrik wrote: I've enjoyed my Evolv Rave sz 11.5 with 11.5 EE feet so far. Kronos were also good. I tried Defy velcro in half a size up for comfort. They got pouchy enough to rotate around my foot one hot sweaty day, but there is a lace version. |