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Mount Baker North ridge

Original Post
wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Thinking about hitting the north ridge on Baker this weekend into early next week anyone been up there recently and have current conditions?

also, debating whether or not to camp at heliotrope and have a little bit longer start on summit day versus camping down lower  

how easy is it to traverse from Heliotrope over to the north ridge route, if I remember correctly, there is a crevasse field there and can’t remember how easy it is to circumnavigate

Chris C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

For a camp site, I personally think Gargoyle Rocks is perfect for the NR.  It cuts down the summit day by an amount that I consider is "worth it", and also isn't too far off from Heliotrope Ridge on the way down.  There is a bit of glacier travel between the Hogsback Camp and Gargoyle Rocks, so I like to keep my glacier kit near the top of the pack when coming in.  There are lower camps below the tree line, but I wouldn't consider those at all for a NR climb, it seems to be used mostly by groups planning out 4+ day climbs.

Crossing over to the base of the North Ridge does require crossing the Coleman Glacier, which is a real glacier.  But unless you are going late when things are very dry, it is usually quite manageable to cross.   

I haven't been up there this year, so I can't speak to current conditions.  

Koy · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 85

Made the summit via NR last week Tues.  Ideal conditions at the moment.  Would recommend Hogsback or gargoyle for camp.  It is not difficult at all right now to traverse over to the base of the route.  Open crevasses were almost non-existent.  Enjoy!

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Thanks!  Are you still camping on snow at either of those two campsites or are there sites with exposed rocks?

Any running water?

Koy · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 85

There are plenty of sites at Hogsback where you can camp on the rocks.  Snow sites available too.  Also plenty of running water up at Hogsback.  Unlikely you'll find running water at Gargoyle. 

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

is Gargoyle melted out or are you camping on snow?

Koy · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 85
wisam wrote:

is Gargoyle melted out or are you camping on snow?

Snow

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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