Ragged Mountain CT: Rock Quality and Gear Placements

Hey all,

Just recently started climbing at Ragged and had some questions on gear placements.  I find that there seems to be a lot of hollow sounding rock on routes that I wouldn't place gear behind at other crags i.e. Hanging Mt, Farley, Rose Ledge, etc.  Yet not using these placements lead to some decent runouts on routes that had a "G" rating from MP.  Some routes seem to have good gear like YMC, Wet Wall, Broadway.  But specifically I was working Knight's Gambit and found some spots that would protect the climb but to me sound hollow where I wouldn't trust a piece.  Do people who are more familiar with this rock type use these placements?  Is CT traprock different?  Or are there super small placements (RPs, micro nuts) that I'm just not seeing??

Thanks!

Josh DiQuattro wrote:

Hey all,

Just recently started climbing at Ragged and had some questions on gear placements.  I find that there seems to be a lot of hollow sounding rock on routes that I wouldn't place gear behind at other crags i.e. Hanging Mt, Farley, Rose Ledge, etc.  Yet not using these placements lead to some decent runouts on routes that had a "G" rating from MP.  Some routes seem to have good gear like YMC, Wet Wall, Broadway.  But specifically I was working Knight's Gambit and found some spots that would protect the climb but to me sound hollow where I wouldn't trust a piece.  Do people who are more familiar with this rock type use these placements?  Is CT traprock different?  Or are there super small placements (RPs, micro nuts) that I'm just not seeing??

Thanks!

"Is CT traprock different?"  

Oh yeah...

When at Ragged, think: sky hooks, duct tape, and at least 3 different belay ropes (and a separate belayer on each rope...)

Or maybe: top rope the living b-jesuz out of them and then "lead" them on pre-placed gear....

I think it's the traditional way they were supposed to be climbed... 

ed "it's sad one nut case still triggers me, after all these years.." e

ps, Sorry Josh, about not having any useful insight about protecting these climbs, it's been years since I climbed them. And, it was back in the day when climbing was supposed to be terrifying.  Hopefully, others will have more helpful advise.

Sorry Josh, about not having any useful insight about protecting these climbs, 

End here. 

Josh DiQuattro wrote:

But specifically I was working Knight's Gambit and found some spots that would protect the climb but to me sound hollow where I wouldn't trust a piece.  Do people who are more familiar with this rock type use these placements?  Is CT traprock different?  Or are there super small placements (RPs, micro nuts) that I'm just not seeing?

The first  time I led Knight's Gambit (1989) there were 2 bolts and 4 pitons. Then for a long while there was no fixed pro. Now the 2 bolts have been replaced  and 2 anchor bolts added.

There are some hollow flakes around the Knight's Move traverse. Other than that, you're right, for a lot of Ragged routes it's small cams, RPs, intricate placements and some runouts.

Hi Josh,

I would say that it largely depends on the route that you select. You're right, routes like Carey Corner, Broadway, YMC, Subline, Unconquerable, Wiessner Crack, Vector and others all protect really well and don't have much questionable rock (there are a few placements that you just need to avoid or look out for). Knight's Gambit wouldn't be one that I would put on that list, though. If headpointing and fiddling with small gear is your thing, you can find those routes at Ragged as well. 

I think traprock gear placements are a little different than other rock types but that's what makes it fun and a great place to refine your trad climbing skills. 

I've found protection is tricky on lots of the traprock and I've found some of the best micro nuts/RPs in the more solid spots there as well. It's different,  certainly a bit more advanced knowledge required compared to western basalt 

I'll echo the above. That was my experience with leading Knight's Gambit recently as well.

I totally know the "hollow" that you're referring to. It's not quite an "oh shit this is garbage" hollow sound, but you can definitely tell that you're not hitting solid rock.

I've seen a lot of people place gear behind this stuff, (and I do on occasion) but never personally seen anyone take a whipper on it in. I get the feeling that it would probably hold, but I usually like to do better than probably with my gear placements.

Ragged has a lot of flaring cracks, so I've switch to WC Superlight Offset Rocks as my only stoppers. I have RP's as well but I haven't carried them in a while because I figured I wasn't climbing hard enough to need them. Maybe I'll add them back to the rack...

Hey, thanks all for the help! This definetly helps with getting familiar to Ragged.  I think I'll just assume headpointing these routes before just jumping on the sharp end. Some great routes so far though!

Ragged will challenge you when you look for gear, but also has some bomber 'sew it up' routes. It's a learning curve but a great way to learn traprock placements and get into all the other local traprock crags. I placed more nuts and I started with all the low grades and worked up, but found some of those moderates can get run out (some bolts have been replaced to save runouts now*) Some ppl become obsessed with traprock for its unique features and for a while I was infatuated too. I led almost everything I could there for 2 seasons and never got bored. I'd probably skip the notoriously bad leads for a while, but there is PLENTY to work that has great gear. I got really good at finding nuts b/c the cam placements aren't exactly textbook cracks. TR laps to scout for gear is common too, onsights are tough.

Rock Climber wrote:

 I'd probably skip the notoriously bad leads for a while, but there is PLENTY to work that has great gear. I got really good at finding nuts b/c the cam placements aren't exactly textbook cracks. 

That's very true. Many routes have vertical cracks but, because they are irregular, they are nicely suited for passive gear (even hexes). 

The first time I led Cary Corner was before we had cams. And the two little trees were still in the lower crack. Scared to death. It was a while before I got back on it.