How Long Are You Allowed to Rest on a Ledge to Still Qualify as a Send

Stefanos Apostle wrote:

You are opening a whole new box of tea and crumpets by bringing an E-grade into the convo buddy...Ondra is obviously only doing this because if you don't take the proper time to contemplate your death and the family you will leave behind on something as extreme as an E12, you aren't getting the full value of the climb thus making it easier to climb. James graded the "Walk of Life" E12 because the whole time he was walking this climb he was thinking about what would happen to the life of his pet gerbil Nigel if he blew any one of those shallow stoppers. If you dont have a gerbil, its E9

Look, you plug in the info for James' Walk of Life into the Darth Grader and you can see the true E grade depending on condies...

Rest as long as you want.  I'm posing from a climb in Uni right now, been up here for three days.  

2.5/10

Chad Miller wrote:

Rest as long as you want.  I'm posing from a climb in Uni right now, been up here for three days.  

2.5/10

Yeah I'm actually at the bottom of the climb and I've been waiting for you to finish your burn. No rush, but also can you please hurry the fuck up? My trip is over tomorrow. I've been trying to get your attention but I don't think you can hear me over the new T Swift album you've got blasting up there on your speaker. I'd be more upset, but I'm honestly really digging the tunes.

This post reminds me of when I was told it’s not really a red point because I worked on it for 6 weeks and another time by a different partner who asked if it is really a clean send if you just top roped it right before you lead it. I think some people just like to bring you down when you feel good about your send….

Chad Miller wrote:

Rest as long as you want.  I'm posing from a climb in Uni right now, been up here for three days.  

2.5/10

3 days?   I’m sure you violated the bathroom break rule by now.  Clean up the ledge, and No send for you.

Brennan VanDyke wrote:

Ok but if I shit myself a little on the crux of Bachar-Yerian and still send does that not count

Like hypothetically 1 or 2 jolly rancher sized turds 

Amendment exception to the BBR (bathroom break rule):  if you can contain it all within your pants, the send is preserved.   No wag bag deployment or external breach allowed.  

I don’t make these rules, I just live by them

Lotta constipated single-pitch-top-rope-instructors posting to this thread, it seems. I got some news for you gromet-clernching cragsters, you can paint your butt batter down 3 pitches of red rock chimney and still get the clean send.

Based on your description, claiming a “clean send” seems far fetched and dishonest 

Stefanos Apostle wrote:

If you dont have a gerbil, its E9

I agree

Eternal Gumby wrote:

Everyone knows you can rest as long as you want as long as you don't weight the rope or any gear (hooks, trad gear, knee pads, etc...). 

this is where trickery comes in to play... super easy to "step" on the rope in a crack and hold your own weight without belayer ever feeling you weight the rope.

Mark Pilate wrote:

Here’s a simple litmus test that most can probably agree on.  You cannot relieve yourself on the ledge and claim the send.    Either #1or2….then you’re turning it into a big wall and out of acceptable style.   Other than that, you can stay as long as your bowels and bladder hold out.  

What if the climber is up there long enough for the belayer to relive themself….? Asking for a friend

Mark Pilate wrote:

3 days?   I’m sure you violated the bathroom break rule by now.  Clean up the ledge, and No send for you.

I have a bladder and bowels of steel.

Bryan wrote:

Yeah I'm actually at the bottom of the climb and I've been waiting for you to finish your burn. No rush, but also can you please hurry the fuck up? My trip is over tomorrow. I've been trying to get your attention but I don't think you can hear me over the new T Swift album you've got blasting up there on your speaker. I'd be more upset, but I'm honestly really digging the tunes.

You sir win the internet for today!  

In British trad, aren't you literally allowed to downclimb from the ledge and try again the next day, still preserving the onsight? Or am I misremembering how that whole thing works.

Dan Schmidt wrote:

In British trad, aren't you literally allowed to downclimb from the ledge and try again the next day, still preserving the onsight? Or am I misremembering how that whole thing works.

Just scroll up and you'll see other people remembering the same thing. 

Adam R wrote:

Just scroll up and you'll see other people remembering the same thing. 

MP should integrate ChatGPT to summarize long ass threads for me before I post cringe.

I bet ChatGPT would do a good tradiban impression ngl.

Dan Schmidt wrote:

MP should integrate ChatGPT to summarize long ass threads for me before I post cringe.

I bet ChatGPT would do a good tradiban impression ngl.

Any idiot could do a tradi, chat gpt included 

clee 03m wrote:

This post reminds me of when I was told it’s not really a red point because I worked on it for 6 weeks and another time by a different partner who asked if it is really a clean send if you just top roped it right before you lead it. I think some people just like to bring you down when you feel good about your send….

Sounds like you're still trying to convince yourself (and the MP users) that you sent...

Adam R wrote:

Any idiot could do a tradi, chat gpt included 

The 14+ pages of people still talking about Tradi would beg to differ   

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

The 14+ pages of people still talking about Tradi would beg to differ   

If we hadn't run out of everything else to talk about and then run that back double a few times already we would not be talking about tradi. He's a part of the culture or the meta and that's all we terminally on mp ppl have. It's unfortunate really. 

I disagree with you that because we are talking about him still that that is evidence towards the fact he can not be replicated by an idiot.