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Aid climbing pitches on the Squamish Chief that are out of the way?

Original Post
gunkie X · · Solebury, PA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 655

Hello there.  Will be in Squamish first week of July and my daughter wants me to teach her and a friend of hers how to aid climb. I'm not familiar with the Chief and if I actually teach aid climbing, I'm looking to not encroach on any popular or semi-popular or has any modicum of possibly being popular free routes.  Looking for a decent, clean-aid pitch, preferably right off the ground for this little tutorial.  Thanks!

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,175

I'm sure you'll get good advice here, but another source would be to call or stop in Climb On and ask the folks who work there.

James Maltman · · Vancouver · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 362

Cannabis wall is one of the classic "starter" aid routes on the chief, but it's first pitch has a bunch of hook moves right off the ground into a bolt/rivet ladder, so might not be the best introduction. If you're not committed to being on the chief proper, I'm sure you can wander around the smoke bluffs and find some out of the way single pitch cracks that could be a good lesson. I'd just stay away from places like burgers and fries, free and easy, or neat and cool  if you're trying to avoid people.

gunkie X · · Solebury, PA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 655
James Maltman wrote:

Cannabis wall is one of the classic "starter" aid routes on the chief, but it's first pitch has a bunch of hook moves right off the ground into a bolt/rivet ladder, so might not be the best introduction. If you're not committed to being on the chief proper, I'm sure you can wander around the smoke bluffs and find some out of the way single pitch cracks that could be a good lesson. I'd just stay away from places like burgers and fries, free and easy, or neat and cool  if you're trying to avoid people.

Thanks.  That might be perfect if it doesn't get too much traffic.  I can lead the pitch and TR it and the hook moves for my daughter and her friend initially.  Then, of course, send them out on the sharp end :) 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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