La Sportiva G Series vs Scarpa Phantom Series

Hello ice climbers, 

Since it's spring, the days are growing longer, and summer is on the horizon, it's tiime to obsess about ice climbingb gear!

For the last decade, I've climbed in Scarpa Phantom Techs.  I've gone through several generations, and I like them very much, but I find that the last generation (not the new HD) are 1) kinda cold, and 2) really flexible.

As I get older, I find myself more sensitive to the cold, and as somebody with big feet (48) I can really feel the flex.  Dob't get me wrong, sometimes the flex is nice (long approaches, mixed climbs, alpine stuff) but on real ice, I often wish for something stiffer.  It makes me want to climb in light ski touring boots!

If I do get new boots, the natural choice would be the new Phantom Tech HDs or 6000 HDs, but I'm intrigued by the new La Sportiva boots.  

How do people rate the warmpth of the new Phantom Tech HDs vs the G-Techs, or the Phantom 6000s vs the G-Summits?

What about the stiffness?

Weights below.

La Sportiva

G-Summit (850 grams)

G-Tech (630)

Scarpa

Phantom 6000 (1050 grams) 

Phantom Tech HD (800 grams)

Exactly - this is the start of the ice climbing season!

I wish I could comment on the current generation of G-Series boots, but alas, I can't yet.  In case it helps, I climb very comfortably in the G-5s down to around -20C, and in the G2SMs from there down to whatever temperature my fingers permanently freeze at (mid to low -20s C).  Obviously, there's a slight weight and bulk penalty in the double boots, but not to a point that I've really noticed when climbing.  I've been really, really impressed with both sets of boots.  Warm, stiff, and comfortable.  I see a pair of G-Techs in my future (or whatever they're replaced with in a year or two, maybe).  I can't wait to have the Boa dial on the outside of the gaiter.

With luck, someone will chime in with answers to the questions you actually asked.

Used the previous version of the Phantom Tech before the new HD and enjoyed the fit, but also found them cold. I switched to the G5 and found it much warmer. I also have the G Tech and it’s a noticeably colder boot than the Phantom Tech, but popping the boa at belays does help a little bit. Neither of the Sportiva boots fit as well or holds my heel down as securely, but it doesn’t affect my climbing ability.

I have to replace my G5s for this coming winter and may try the new HD as friends say it’s warmer. 

I’ve absolutely love my G5 and GTechs.  Luckily I have a middle of the road foot and both Scarpa and La Spo fit me fine.  I gradually started wearing only the above the last many years and Scarpas gathered dust.    Unless it’s colder temps, (<10 F) I wear the Techs.  If you’re concerned about warmth though, I’d hesitate to recommend the G Tech.  For performance, it’s hard to beat.  

With a 48 though, some flex is inevitable.

Thanks for starting this tread Bruno. I also use the second to newest phantom tech and agree that it is cold and flexy, that also makes me want to climb in ski touring boots to at least get stiff and cold.

I have a couple partners that use G-tech's and they flex like a banana.

I also have a partner that runs G-5 evo's and they are warm and stiff but also somewhat clumsy relative to the cutting edge.

I tried a size 44 G-Summit and it fit great and and I don't recall it flexing much. It will likely be my next boot.

I picked up some G techs at the beginning of the season with the idea of only using them on warmer days. However I only wore my phantom techs once this year, the g tech ended up being my full time boot.

While the phantom tech is warmer, they aren’t that much warmer than the G techs. the Boa is also a game changer for boots. The ability to pop them open at belays means I get better circulation while not climbing, which I found helps a lot for keeping the feet warm 

As for stiffness its not even a comparison. My g techs are way stiffer than the phantom techs, Sportiva in general tends to make stiffer boots than other brands. With my phantom techs I often struggled with calf burn but did adore how they walked and climbed rock without crampons. Combined with the light weight I find this makes the g tech feel very precise, in addition to taking some strain off the calves. This is nice when climbing, but is definitely noticeable on long approaches.

And while fit is entirely subjective, I have found the new Sportiva boots on the aequelibrium last to have much better heel hold than my phantom techs.

I remember when I first bought my phantom techs a couple years ago and I thought they were the hottest thing I’d ever used and I couldn’t imagine a set of boots being much better, but after wearing g techs for a season I’m going to switch over to la Sportiva entirely for my ice boots.